Palaces & Pathways of Sintra

This walk covered every type of terrain and experience, from amazing west coast beaches and stormy seas, through stony headlands and valleys, to idyllic backwaters of small, typical villages, and on again to the grand palaces of Sintra!   Arriving in Sintra, the prospect of climbing to the great heights of the Moorish Castle and the Pena Palace seemed daunting, but there is a gradual climb and a pleasant return back to town, which enabled us to stand proudly on the highest point of the Moorish Castle and survey the wide area we had traversed the previous six days.   A great feeling of satisfaction!

Some stunning accommodation, each place with its own character, but all comfortable and welcoming.   Aasta's picnic, in its gingham bag, was a delight to eat, a voyage of discovery in itself!

A rewarding week, with mostly clear blue skies, and the many trees showing their first promise of Autumn colours.

Found some of the ascents rather steep but managable if you take your time.  We don't bother too much if our timings don't match the notes, we just regard those as a guide.  I think that the Monastery at Pe da Serra is not really worth visiting.  Parts of it are under reconstruction, the cafe is closed (they may be building another one, not sure) and if you take the audio you have to leave your driving licence or similar as security!  The audio is only 3 Euros but it is very wordy and if you listened to it all, you'd be spending all day there.  

We found a nice Italian restaurant near Sintra called Toccante, it is fairly new and you do need a taxi to get there (about 6 euros each way) but we wanted a change of cuisine.  

The 4 course meal at Colina Flora was absolutely delicious and we would certainly recommend other Inntravellers try it.  In fact we liked the 'longtable, everyone eat together' meals at both this place and the Convent, we met fellow walkers, not all with Inntravel but all very pleasant and sociable.

We would suggest you strongly recommend an extra night in Sintra to enable sightseeing to be less intense and therefore more enjoyable. We were able to therefore visit national museum and castle on one day then spend a very enjoyable day at Pena Palace and various sights within the extensive grounds.

There was a great variety of walking, from coastal paths, to wooded areas and visiting various palaces. The hotels were generally excellent, some a bit quirky but very good nonetheless. We would thoroughly recommend the holiday. Recommendation - On our last day we walked up to Pena Palace in Sintra and were met by an hour long queue to visit the inside of the palace. The slow queue continued throughout and in our opinion was a waste of time. Visiting the external galleries would have been sufficient for us. 

This is a beautiful area and we loved the variety of the walks, the wide far-reaching views, and the excellent choice of accommodation on this holiday. We were made to feel very welcome at all the hotels, and the hosts went out of their way to make us feel at home. Jonathan and Sharon [Convento de São Saturnino], and James and Aasta [Colina Flora] provided delicious picnics, and recommendations and lifts to restaurants. We particularly liked Adega Vadia in Colares, and the fish restaurant on Adraga Beach. We also had a very enjoyable evening eating with the other 8 guests in the dining room at São Saturnino.

On Day one, we negotiated an earlier pick up from Cascais, which worked well, and we enjoyed a late-ish lunch in the pretty Don Quixote garden.

On Day three, we enjoyed a great glass of wine at Flores de Cabo (recommended in the notes) knowing that we only had a further 400m to walk!

In Sintra, we took an early tuk-tuk up to the Pena Palace and managed to beat the crowds. 

In Lisbon, we would recommend Quermesse restaurant, just 300 metres from the hotel. 

Finally, Inntravel's background notes on the history of the area, and the food and drink were very comprehensive.

The only tip I would like to give is to arrive as early as possible at Pena Palace as queues can be very, very long.

A lovely holiday made all the more special by the hosts of the accommodation chosen by Inntravel. Would recommend this route to anyone interested in nature, palaces and peace.

We thoroughly enjoyed the holiday - the walks, beautiful scenery, sunshine (but not too hot!), food, wine and hospitality were all excellent - and we had a great tapas / fado experience organised by the Colina Flora. Overall we experienced a great balance of activities, sightseeing and relaxation. Will definitely be looking for another trip soon!

Colina Flores was very pretty, and helpful hosts. Go to Don Quixote as recommended in notes before going back to the convent - really nice bar with lovely views.

We enjoyed the walks everyday especially up to the peninha chapel. The views of the coast and countryside were breathtaking. Every day we learnt something new and walked to outstanding places both man made and natural. The Convento was a fascinating place to stay and swim. We appreciated the time and trouble James and Aasta took to take us out to dinner and provide marvellous breakfasts and packed lunches.

The Portuguese were very friendly and we particularly enjoyed the different types of walks - hill, coastal and forest. Many of the walks had wonderful wild flowers. The food was fantastic and the accommodation was exceptional.

Great sense of achievement at completing the walks. Such a variety of places to stay we always wondered what was coming next.

This was a very enjoyable holiday exploring the terrain, culture and food of this area of Portutugal. In particular  we loved the warm welcome and beauty of Pergola house and the quiet sanctuary of the Convento Sao Saturnino. The best breakfast ever was provided by Aasta at the Colina Flora guest house. We upgraded locally to a suite at the Lawrence hotel and would highly recommend this extra to other travellers as the difference in the quality of the room was vast.

[Palaces and Pathways of Sintra was] Our second holiday with Inntravel and again we thoroughly enjoyed it. Great hotels, lovely varied walks and excellent descriptions. May was a great time to see this area as there was an abundance of wild flowers and butterflies. The Lisbon City add on was well worthwhile and we also enjoyed an extra night in Cascais. There was a daily walking tour of Cascais from the railway station at 10.30 and plenty of shops/seafront/harbour to fill the rest of a day. Thanks again to all the staff at Inntravel for putting together such a memorable holiday. 

One of the best Inntravel holidays we've done for varied walking and sights to see. The 'country house' atmosphere at the convent was particularly nice and we got on well with the rest of the guests. Reguleiria is a site not to be missed particularly the underground passages and grottoes.

Another winner from Inntravel. Excellent combination of varied accommodation, quiet walks, spectacular palaces and castles, dramatic coastline and a plethora of wildflowers making for a memorable holiday.

A really lovely holiday. The only downside was three days of rain and fog so we missed some views. However, the open fire at Convento de São Saturnino was lovely to sit in front of when we gave up and stayed in! We 'cheated' on the Sintra day and took a tuk-tuk up to the Pena Palace and beat the queues!! (We did subsequently do a lot of walking that day) but we recommend getting your entrance ticket in advance (also do the same for Belem Tower) and getting there early. And the tuk-tuk ride was an experience. You can also negotiate the fare!

Our plan for our first visit to Portugal consisted of two Inntravel trips with extra time in Lisbon and Porto. A week’s walk on the Palaces & Pathways of Sintra was followed by a week in the Valley of Gold. Traveling by rail between the two trips we stopped in Coimbra for an interesting tour of the town and campus. We loved both walking itineraries.

Palaces & Pathways of Sintra: We liked the varied walks and the seacoast proximity. We were especially impressed with the proprietors of Convento de Sao Saturnino and Colina Flora. They have worked so hard to create interesting and attractive inns, and to provide an enjoyable experience for their guests.

Valley of Gold: We loved the views, the quiet country lanes, farm roads, and the picturesque villages.  Again the overnight stays were very enjoyable.  The last stay at Casa Do Visconde de Chanceleiros was definitely a cut above, and deserves consideration for an extra night.

This was our sixth and seventh walk with Inntravel. We’ve said it before and we say it again “You Are Tops!” All arrangements and communications are trouble-free. All routes are carefully considered, interesting and delightful.

Each of the hotels was interesting and unique and we enjoyed staying in all of them. We are vegetarian and the food provided at Colina Flora was perfect for us - it was really tasty and freshly prepared. The unusual setting of Convento Saturnino was beautiful and the owners were very friendly. Whilst both the Pergola and Lawrences were more Portugese, they were so interesting in quite different ways and both were lovely places to stay. The walking was wonderful taking us to beautiful beaches, quiet forests, pretty villages and finally to the incredible palaces in Sintra. Although only 8 days the holiday felt so much longer as we did so much and saw so many interesting places. 

Another very enjoyable Inntravel holiday, with excellent hotels, beautiful coastal walks, amazing views and fabulous palaces that I never knew existed... and one I'd already love to do again. As a seasoned Inntraveller I take for granted that the travel arrangements, walking notes and background information will be spot on - and they were. This holiday was made all the more enjoyable by the four American Inntravellers who we met at the Convento. Special thanks to Jonathan from the Convento and James from Colina Flora for willingly providing additional taxi services for a member of our party - much appreciated. We added on a couple of days in Lisbon, but wished afterwards that we had scheduled the holiday to avoid being in Lisbon on a Monday when many key attractions are closed. 

A very satisfying holiday, every aspect went smoothly, the organisation worked really well. The walk was well researched to be interesting and rewarding. Sometimes challenging but never beyond our capabilities. The accommodation was brilliant; while being comfortable and with good food these were very interesting establishments and with a touch of eccentricity.

The day walk to visit Capuchos and Monserrate was the best.

Delightful countryside, varied, interesting and comfortable accommodation, comprehensive and accurate walking notes all combined to make this a superb holiday. I would strongly recommend it.

The variation in very good hotels and the variation in scenic monuments and scenery were fantastic.

The walk was sufficiently challenging in places to give a sense of achievement. Route notes were excellent, easy to read and accurate with interesting historical notes to accompany the directions. The accomodation was generally of a very high standard, and individually furnished. All had very comfortable beds, the people were welcoming, helpful and friendly.

This was our first time in Portugal and our second Inntravel holiday. We thoroughly enjoyed everything! The walk notes were spot on and the routes very varied. The accommodation was excellent throughout and the hosts all very welcoming. My husband's gluten free diet was extremely well catered for. The coast was spectacular and Sintra was amazing. The fado evening recommended by James (at Colina Flora) was very enjoyable. 

Our highlights: the rock stacks at Ursa; the stay at the Convento where the communal eating arrangement led to great conversation; meeting up with fellow walkers; the varied landscape; the recommendations for coffee shops, eateries and ice cream parlour en route.

Highlights: Wine tasting in Cascais, Tapas and Fado in Cascais, Pasteis de Belem, the Elevadors,  Coat of Arms room in National Museum in Sintra, Monseratte Villa - video of son of 'caretaker', clams in garlic bouillon at small restaurant in Lisbon, taxi ride up to the door of Solar Do Castelo [Lisbon add-on].

This is my 18th Inntravel Holiday (and I would not have made 18 if they were not excellent). I think my colleagues who since they joined intend to come back for more. We are, of course, getting on - some now in their late 70s. It is difficult to give a highlight. Perhaps the first day's walk was the least enjoyable

Having just returned from two walks in Portugal, Palaces and Pathways of Sintra and The Valley of Gold, I think perhaps the greatest highlight was to be able to interact with the Portuguese people in a variety of settings. Whereas in some locales a foreign visitor is often reminded that they are often on the verge of trespassing on (superior) local cultural norms, in Portugal it seems the visitor can do no wrong and people are absolutely delighted in anyone's interest in things Portuguese.  

The Sintra walk begins along the coast, climbing up to the Serra Sintra above Cabo Roca, and then proceeding more or less along the ridge to the historic summer palace retreat of the Portuguese royalty in the town of Sintra itself. It provides a wonderful mix of historic towns and spectacular coastal scenery. It begins in the late 19th and early 20th century seaside resort town of Cascais which reached its heyday when the unfortunate last king of Portugal, King Carlos, made it the home base for his marine biology studies making it for a while the ultimate seaside destination in the country. The boutique hotel in Cascais is set in a family mansion from the post royalist era, but invokes its spirit in its exuberant tilework and period decor, particularly in the public rooms. The walk begins at Cabo Raso, where the coast makes its right-angle bend to the north and follows the rockbound coast punctuated by a series of small and large sandy beaches north towards the headland of Cabo Roca eventually leading to the Convento de Sao Saturnino set in a small valley about a mile above the lighthouse. The "Convento" is a wonderful warren of buildings, some dating back to medieval times, which was used by monks primarily as a mill. The owners father has collected antiques from all over the Portuguese empire, so that the numerous niches and ledges are filled with his treasures. Cabo Roca lighthouse, which advertises itself as the westernmost structure on the European continent, is set on a spectacular clifftop, but unsurprisingly it attracts multiple tour buses and selfie sticks. The good news is that only a few hundred yards away in either direction, the crowds dwindle to almost nothing and the spectacular coast of cliffs and sandy coves is all but deserted until the Praia Adraga which is a large beach set between rocky headlands very popular with Portuguese and foreign visitors. From the coast the route works its way under the main Sintra ridge in the national park largely through forests with frequent vistas to the north and occasionally to the south back to Cascais, Estoril, and in the distance to Lisbon. A fascinating stop is at the Convento dos Capuchos, an austere Franciscan monastery of 12 cells built into the granite hillside, which was inhabited until the 19th century.  The final two days are spent around Sintra, exploring the extravagant palaces and gardens built up around the original summer palace in the town itself.  Most of the palaces and gardens are 19th century confections of the romantic era, a perfect foil to the austerity of the Convento dos Capuchos. Appropriately the last two nights are spent at Lawrence’s Hotel, where Lord Byron and other luminaries spent many summers.    

The Valley of Gold walk provided a rather different experience, beginning in the busy city of Porto with the walk itself making a long loop to the north of the Douro from the town of Pinhao, about two thirds of the way up the river towards the Spanish border. Porto is a fascinating city that I wish I had had more time to explore, and I think it would be worthwhile to spend at least two nights there to really appreciate it. The Hotel Pestana Vintage Porto has one of the best sites in the city set directly on the waterfront at the centre of the old town directly across from Vila Nova de Gaia where the traditional port wineries are located. The walking notes were very useful in enabling one to see the important visitor sites of the city efficiently, but unfortunately with my particular travel schedule I didn't have enough time to do them justice.
The walk above Pinhao was a wonderful contrast to the urban busy-ness of Porto, winding through the spectacularly terraced vineyards above the river valley through small towns and villages, some of them prosperous, and some of them nearly empty and fading away. The four lodgings provided a nice series of contrasts: The first was in a vineyard farmhouse overlooking the Douro; the second was in a pousada in the former Manor of an English wine baron in the picturesque small town of Alijo; the third was in a restored 16th century manor house, the site if the first potato planting in Portugal; and the grand finale was a restored nobleman's house once again on a hillside above the Douro. As we were walking through one of the little towns, a wonderful aroma was wafting out an open door, an elderly Portuguese gentleman asked us inside to see his home winery in a basement. They were shovelling grapes into a hand press, which drained into an open trough and thence to an open fermenting barrel via some plastic tubing. He asked us in Portuguese and then in broken French with many gestures to sample the finished product, which he siphoned out of a dusty barrel. He said it was thirty years old! Needless to say, it was really good, particularly since we each had two glasses filled to overflowing. It was a true "only in Portugal" experience.

Having been on two previous Inntravel walks, I have come to take for granted that the mechanics of the trip would work seamlessly. The travel and luggage transfers went without a hitch. The walk notes are the best I have used, and far more precise than others I have tried to follow. The lodgings have been consistently good, interesting, and varied, giving a real feel for the cuisine and culture of the local area. Obviously, I am a happy customer, and I am already planning my next trips.  

This was a memorable holiday, full of highlights. We would thoroughly recommend it, including the Lisbon add,on to anyone.

Another excellent Inntravel holiday. This was our first trip to Portugal and we would definitely return. Highlights were definitely the Hotel Britannia in Lisbon (beautiful hotel and great service) and Colina Flora in Pe De Serra. James and Aasta were amazing hosts and their guesthouse is a haven of peace and calm. James was excellent at recommending restaurants in the area and will drop you off and pick you up.  We would particularly recommend Sisudo in Almocageme. We enjoyed our time in Sintra and the evenings were particularly nice when the crowds were gone. We would recommend the restaurant Incomum which is not far from the station.  

INNTRAVEL NOTE: These customers added on a 2-night stay in Lisbon at the Hotel Britania, before doing the Palaces & Pathways of Sintra walking holiday.

Pergola House was so enchanting and the Convent at San Saturnino a real gem. Both very unusual and enjoyable hotels. The staff at all the hotels, Pergola House, Convent de Sao Saturnino and Colina Flora were so helpful, friendly and attentive. The food was of an excellent standard at the forementioned hotels and the home-made personal touches at Colina Flora was very welcomed and appreciated.

We couldn’t have been happier with this holiday. We have done lots with you but this will go down as one of our favourites. All the hosts were excellent and super-welcoming, accommodation great and the walking was varied and beautiful with plenty of interest to see on the way.

Palaces and Pathways of Sintra consisted of lovely walks through a variety of scenery and which always ended in top class accommodation. The Convento de Sao Saturnino was a spectacular place to stay and definitely worth the long walk down, and consequently UP the following mornings. The Don Quixote bar above Sao Saturnino is a super place to stop for great views, sustenance and ambience! 

On the Waterfront provided a contrast and all three cities, although completely different were fascinating. One of the many highlights was the Nucleo da Guitarra e do Fado de Coimbra which is housed in the Torre Alto, part of the city walls and is dedicated to fado music in Coimbra and the Portuguese guitar that accompanies it. However our favourite city was Porto which we feel is greatly under-rated and where we could have wandered happily for days!  

INNTRAVEL NOTE: These customers combined our Palaces & Pathways of Sintra walking holiday and our On the Waterfront Slow motion journey.

As you know, we booked an extra night in Cascais at the start of the holiday. This proved to be well worth-while because it gave us an opportunity to explore and enjoy this resort. We would recommend this to anyone contemplating this holiday.

We especially loved the walking along the coastline (once we got past Guincho Beach) and in the amazing forests. The palaces were spectacular, and while a couple were a bit crowded, it wasn't oppressive. Lots of steep walking, but worth every step! We loved our holiday and can't wait the chance to do another Inntravel walking holiday. We recommend your company frequently. Thank you!

IMPRESSIONS OF THE PATHWAYS TO SINTRA

Yellows and purples – daisies and echiums lining the open forest paths of the Sintra Hills; pinks and whites – cistus and thrift speckling the clifftops with green-blue seas scintillating below; reds and blues – roses and lavender in the gardens we passed; brilliant orange – feral nasturtiums cascading over roadside banks in the villages.  Open maquis vegetation by the ocean and across the sand dunes, the varied greens of forest trees on the hills inland.

This was a varied and fascinating series of walks passing from the wild Atlantic to enclosed forest glades, from narrow paths snaking up and down hillsides to extensive views over sea and hills.  Every now and again the views included the Pena Palace at Sintra, a hilltop marvel built by King Ferdinand, cousin of both Victoria and Albert but with a much more flamboyant taste in architecture – frankly, his creation is monstrous, painted externally in a gaudy clash of red, yellow and blue-grey, with motifs drawn indiscriminately from the building traditions of both Portugal and elsewhere.  It is set in extensive wooded parkland at the far end of which is the chalet Ferdinand built for his second wife.  It is much more modest, and could have been attractive had he not faced all the external woodwork with cork resulting in an ungainly warty appearance.

Pena is not the only palace to visit.  Monserrate is a “modest” country home surrounded by glorious gardens.  Regaleira is a comfortable villa set in a fantasy park.  Sintra National Palace is much older, a rambling warren of halls and courtyards where Portuguese kings lived from the 1300s to the 1600s; the old kitchen has no ceiling, being roofed instead just by two enormous chimneys to funnel the heat and smoke away.  The Castle of the Moors is older still but little more than a ruined castle with wonderful views.  We booked an extra day and went by train to Queluz, the Portuguese kings’ 18th-century palace, an elegant baroque home with formal gardens and shady walks.  Perhaps so many palaces in four days was too much, but each is different and we enjoyed learning the different aspects of the country’s past.

Such intense physical and cultural activity requires sustenance which the Inntravel hotels provided in abundance.  At São Saturnino the Nepalese chef imparted an oriental texture to the dinner; at Colina Flora the vegetarian food was delicious; at other places the restaurants served Portuguese specialities from sea and farm, and all accompanied by excellent wines, some local from Sintra and Colares, others from the Alentejo region.  You should sample them for yourselves.

Highlights were the coastal walking, the views and the wildflowers. We were often in sight of the sea, which was exactly what we wanted. The days in Sintra were in complete contrast with the palaces and the gardens and made a pleasant change. 

This is a delightful trip, really well balanced between coast and inland walking. The accommodation is contrasting in type and all very good. We particularly enjoyed: the garden at Pergola House, room 5 at the Convento, Camelia room at Colina Flora (very private, great for the pool) and our upgrade at Lawrence's Hotel to the suite (a beautiful experience). We ate dinner at Lawrence's as well on our second night and found it excellent. 

We didn't have the best luck with weather in Sintra. Definitely not worth going up to the Moorish Castle and Pena Palace in low cloud and a howling gale! Highlights for me were the amazing wildflowers that seemed to line our walking routes pretty much all the way and the relaxing atmosphere in cafes and restaurants. We added a couple of nights in Lisbon, which was great fun. We'd recommend our hotel thoroughly - the Memmo Alfama. Our first time in Portugal, we want to return!

My husband and I did 2 Inntravel walks in Portugal in June 2018 - Manor Houses of the Minho and Palaces & Pathways of Sintra. 

On both walks the accommodation, food and walking was fantastic. The luggage transfers went smoothly. I would recommend both these walks to anyone wishing to undertake a supported walk in Portugal. 

An amazing and challenging experience, the scenery and the abundance of wild flowers everywhere. The weather was mixed with some rain and occasional sun but to be honest it made for good walking condition. I have no sense of direction but the walking notes were excellent. We will definitely do another now we have the confidence.

The wildflowers, particularly on the first day, were just stunning.

The trip fully met, even exceeded, our expectations. All accommodations were excellent; the hosts were all gracious and helpful; and all transfers were handled without any slip ups. As to the hiking notes and maps: We relied almost exclusively on the notes. For the most part they were clear and accurate. There were a couple of occasions wherein expected signage or landmarks were no longer there on the trail. And, a few times, while perhaps it was our own inability to track, the estimated distances between points seemed to be a bit off. Having said that, we successfully completed all legs of the journey pretty much within the time estimates. More important, the routes were varied and gave us a wonderful sense of the region; and the sites we visited were all interesting. Also, we met a number of other Inntravel hikers and we enjoyed comparing notes and sharing experiences. Lastly, despite the fact that I fell and broke my wrist on the third day of our trip (ENTIRELY my fault) we finished that day's trek; was skillfully tended to by the docs at Cascais hospital; and continued to complete our journey to the end. In all, we thoroughly enjoyed our trip and would whole-heartedly recommend Inntravel and this particular hike to anyone who asked.

Arriving at Convento Sao Saturnino on a beautiful evening was very special. Having looked down on it from above, we were intrigued to explore the house and gardens when we got there. We were given a beautiful room with balcony and sea view.

Starting at Cabo de Roca and walking up the spectacular coast was a memorable highlight.

Sintra is bonkers! Outrageous but stunning palaces in the middle of nowhere! We loved it and Lawrence's Hotel makes a perfect base to explore.

A recommendation for dinner in Sintra: After our day at the Pena Palace and Moorish castle and all the walking involved, we wanted to eat close to the hotel. We had been at Tulhas the night before (v good), but just 70 paces from Lawrence's front door, we spotted the Casa do Vinho Sintra, a guest house and wine bar. It offers a fixed price menu (€14.75 for 3 courses and a glass of wine). Everything was delicious, even though the choice is limited to two items for each course. The owner was most obliging and freindly and insisted we try a complimentary glass of port as a nightcap. We would recommend this alternative if you do not want to walk all the way to the station area.

Once again a perfectly executed trip by Inntravel !  We have come to the conclusion that walking vacations with Inntravel are the perfect European holiday.  They lead us far from the hordes of tourists and lead us deep into the wonder of the country.  Never could we have arranged such wonderful trips on our own. 

Highlights: Wonderful walking in boulder strewn forests and Monserrate Palace.

We had very good meals at Sisudo in Almoçageme - excellent service and delicious food. Much more than a 'simple eatery'.

In Sintra we had fantastic meals at A Raposa (other side of town to hotel) and at Romaria de Baco (next to Tulhas, near Tourist Office). Both small so you need to book.

We had no idea about this corner of Portugal before we booked this holiday so it was a total surprise and joy to be able to see it up close. From the wonderful array of flora, the fantastic views and changing scenery mixed with the genuine hospitality of the Portuguese who are the lovliest of people. The icing on the cake - the fabulous Palaces of Sintra - like fairy tale castles in the clouds.  

Tips:

In Sintra, to maximise time at the palaces which are all worth visiting, take a tuk tuk, (€5 each) if not down then up for sure - it's quite a tiring and full last day and there's lots to see and do and with ever increasing numbers it can get very busy and crowded which slow you down...

Restaurants:

Colina Flora - Adraga Beach - thank you for recommending, we ate there at lunch and then went back for dinner - excellent (but pricey depending on what you have...) The tapas restaurant (James knows name)

Sintra - We tried Incomum, but we found it very lacking - it was very busy so service was erratic and trying to be a Michelin-style restaurant but way off the mark... we tried their tasting menu with wines to match which was not outrageously priced, the wines were lovely but the food did not deliver except one dish (out of 5)... big shame. We do, however, recommend Apeadeiro which is a local neighbourhood 'no frills' type place - very authentic... and right next to Incomum...

We loved our holiday in Portugal and combined Lisbon, Palaces & Pathways of Sintra, and finally Porto (3 nights) & the Douro Valley (3 nights). If you have two weeks to spare this was a perfect combination. Based on our previous walking trip in Catalonia, where we started with the a night in Girona, I would recommend starting (not ending) a walking trip with a city tour.

We loved Lisbon, even though we had some very wet weather. Solar do Castelo, with its rather noisy peacocks, was in an ideal location for visiting the castle early in the morning. Beware the queues are very long by mid-morning but it is worth it for the fabulous views of the city. We followed the Alfama tour the night we arrived and ate sardines at one of the little restaurants opposite the Fado museum. On the second night we ate at Chapito - very good grilled octopus and fish - but you need to book if you want a table with a view. We made good use of all the public transport, especially when it rained, and bought two travel cards each (Viva Viagem), one to add the 24-hour travel pass - covers lifts/funiculars, buses, metros & trams - for 6.30 eur plus another to top up with cash for the trains - we used this for Lisbon-Belem, Lisbon-Cascais, and Sintra-Lisbon.

The walking in the Sintra area was very good and there were in fact eight of us from Inntravel doing the same trip which was very enjoyable when we occasionally met up en route and in the evenings. The walks themselves were well designed but unfortunately the walking instructions themselves are a few years old. I understand that they are currently being updated.

In Cascais we ate at Tasca da Vila and were served an excellent grilled seabass for two followed by my first taste of the delicious almond pudding/cake 'toucinho do ceu'. On our route to Colina Flora, we found that the restaurant at Adraga Beach was nearly booked up by the time we arrived (before it opened). We managed to get a table and had another good meal of grilled seabass but others were turned away. There is a cafe next door however. The tapas restaurant Adega Vadia in Colares was great fun with an eclectic decor and unique dishes. In Sintra we ate at Dom Pipas, a bit of a trek from the hotel - we had meat
dishes which were fine but we heard that the 'fish rice' was very good. We particularly liked Tulhas the next night - lovely octopus with prawns.

We took the train from Sintra to Porto, via Lisbon, but unfortunately Porto was very, very crowded. On our first night we couldn't get into any of the suggested restaurants. The second night we managed a reservation at Ribeira Square - some very good tapas with excellent service. Both Fish Fixe and Postigo do Carvao were fully booked throughout our stay and most places were doing sittings at 7pm & 9pm. I would advise booking before you arrive. We did visit the famous bookshop Lello and Irmao but didn't think it was worth the hassle - we booked online and then waited for an hour in a queue to get in - the tickets didn't seem to be timed. There was a separate queue for tickets if you hadn't booked. The port tasting at Grahams was excellent and I would definitely recommend it.

Chanceleiros was fabulous and the best of our 7 hotels - we stayed 3 nights. The evening meals were excellent and we requested a salad lunch on our last full day so that we could finally spend a day doing nothing but relaxing.

Monserrate was fabulous, all the buildings in Sintra were worth visiting, Pena Palace very busy, queued to get in, so might be better to go early. Should think the coastal day would have been wonderful but we had cloudy weather on several days and didn’t get the views!

This was our second holiday with Inntravel. The walks were reasonably arduous (Portugal is built on hills) but plenty of time was allowed. The walking instructions were simple to use, and each day was distinctive with regard to the different terrain encountered. The choice of accommodation was particularly pleasing, and considerable care is clearly taken in finding such interesting overnight stays.

Met and exceeded all expectations, a great experience. Our first Inntravel holiday and we will be back.

We loved the variety of the scenery and the different accommodations.

Overall this is a wonderful way to explore this part of Portugal - the spectacular coastline with its crashing Atlantic rollers, the lush green of the vegetation further inland and the colour and diversity of the flora and fauna of Springtime. Exploring Sintra with its Moorish castle and magnificently preserved and restored palaces and gardens was a revelation - all so different from the holiday resorts of the Algarve. We loved the quirky hotels, eating with the locals in the restaurants and cafes and meeting other walkers on our way. Highly recommended.

Excellent holiday, with friendly people in all different good accommodation, but if doing all the walking options be prepared for plenty of steps.

We were impressed with the quality and character of all the accommodation. We enjoyed hearing about the history of The Convento de Sao Saturnino from Jonathon. It was a fascinating place to stay, surrounded by antique furniture, documents relating to its formation and relics from a bygone age. Sharing dinner with other guests at the long refectory table certainly added to the experience. We were also amused by Jonathon's 'gardeners' who were controlling the vegetation on the steep slopes - three goats and a donkey!

Colina Flora was a delight, with one of the best breakfasts we have had in a hotel and a very impressive vegetarian picnic lunch presented in an organic cotton bag. James was a mine of information on the area. We appreciated the opportunity to use the guest kitchen to cook dinner one evening, assisted by Aasta in sourcing the ingredients, and to eat in the wonderful relaxing garden.

The quality of the accommodation was a real highlight. All the accommodation was unique and we felt privileged to be able to stay in all of it. It allowed us to see areas we would not have found independently and as a result made the holiday really special.

We had a very enjoyable and interesting holiday made better by the wall to wall sunshine from day one. The first stop, Pergola house was absolutely lovely, a real peaceful gem in the heart of a busy town we honestly thought that it would be difficult to beat but each place we then stayed at was as good in a different way. Highly recommend room five at the Convento de Sao Saturnino which is an optional upgrade offered by Inntravel.

All our meals were excellent including those supplied and local restaurants, highly recommend the Restaurant Tasha da Vila Cascais, looks very old and basic inside but the atmosphere was great as was the service of the owner, food was plentiful and local and very cheap (did not realise Mateus Rose still existed).

Also the restaurant in Sintra, Dom Pipas, again good reasonably priced food and good local atmosphere.

Sintra is a very busy town during the day as was  the Pena Palace. On advice we entered from the lake entrance and walked up to it from there which was much quieter but do expect crowds.

On the other hand Sintra empties at night and had no trouble getting about or into the restaurants of our choice. All in all a very good holiday.

On an extra note Inntravel were excellent in keeping us informed and changing taxi times etc when our flight changed due to Monarch airlines folding.

It was another wonderful Inntravel experience. All the accommodation was beautifully chosen and exceptional. The walks were varied with wonderful views and the addition of visiting cultural places was brilliant. The Capuchos Monastery was so wonderful, another world. Pena was a bit of a shock as there were millions of people; after the quietness of the countryside it took some adjusting.

Excellent choice of accommodation throughout. Pergola House and Lawrence's are outstanding. Monseratte Palace and Capuchos Monastery are delightful places to explore in detail. On a hot day the Sintra palace is like an overcrowded IKEA store in that once started there is no escaping until you have shuffled all of the way round by which time you will probably have lost the will to live!

Out of the hotels we enjoyed Pergola House and Colina Flora the best, although they all had their own individual charm and character. Excellent packed lunch at the Colina Flora. We would highly recommend exploring on route, that is if you don't mind walking a little further. 

This was our second walking holiday with Inntravel and we enjoyed it even more than our first one in Provence. We liked the variety of walks. Our favourite ones were through forest where there was ample chance to have some shade. All accommodation was good. The Convent was the most beautiful and peaceful. Our hosts at Colina Flora were amazing and their breakfast and picnic were unequaled, especially for people on a gluten free diet. Tips and lifts to restaurants here were very much appreciated  by us. We booked an extra night in Sintra so that we could visit the palaces at a more leisurely pace. When visiting Monserrate Palace please note there is a cafe but it only serves pastries (nothing GF!). Pena Palace and Capuchos convent are definitely worth a visit as is the Moorish Castle. We had a 3rd night in Sintra and 2 nights in Lisbon which made it a very nice holiday of 2 halves, walking and sightseeing. We highly recommend this holiday.

The walking was very pleasant and varied. The weather was superb. The lunches we had on Guincho Beach and Adraga Beach at cafés the walking notes recommend were excellent. The ice cream parlour in Almoçageme deserves a special mention. We chose lemon and fig ice cream; the figs were from the owner's garden, the lemons from a neighbour's. The ice creams were absolutely delicious. We also ate very well at Tulhas in Sintra, recommended by Inntravel. I would not recommend having dinner at Lawrence's Hotel though every other aspect of the hotel was delightful.

The Convento dos Capuchos is a delightful place to visit. Sintra National Palace is also definitely worth a visit. Do not be put off by the remarks in the walking notes at the start of the description of the palace: "in case you still have energy" and "you may like to visit". I would choose the National Palace over Pena or Montserrate, though the gardens of both these palaces are very pleasant to walk around. We were twice terrified by fierce guard dogs, three on one occasion, standing up with their front paws on a parapet looking down at us. The dogs did not leap down from their property but we were anxious that they might. 

This was a wonderful holiday, each day had a definite focal point to give purpose to the walk. The Pena Palace and the views from the Moorish Castle in Sintra had to be seen to be believed, however my personal favourite was Monserrate.

Monserrate and Pena Palace were both stunning places to visit.

Pena Palace was much less busy early in the morning so would suggest going there first before Moorish Castle.

The Tapas restaurant in the village booked by James at Colina Flora was excellent.

Lawrence's Hotel was excellent but did lack outside space.

This was our first "hotel to hotel" holiday with Inntravel and was a fantastic holiday overall. Good walks with great views, with lots of variety (coastal, forest, mountain ~ some steep hills), good food and excellent hotels. Colina Flora was our favourite ~ James went the extra mile and made us feel really welcome. We enjoyed meeting up with fellow Inntravellers, both a day ahead and a day behind, as well as getting to know others staying in the hotels en route. The communal meal at Convento de Sao Saturnino was a good example of this.

In Sintra we would definitely recommend using a Tuk tuk to get to the Moorish castle ~ 5Euros per person ~ great fun and a lot quicker.  Lawrences has their own and if you ask they'll collect you from the front door. 

Definitely follow Inntravels recommendations for food, all those we used provided good food and good value for money. We only had one one disappointing meal, in Lisbon, when we went "off piste". For a more upmarket dining experience go to Incomum in Sintra, well worth the extra money.  

This holiday exceeded our expectations. All the accommodations were lovely and the service at each location was excellent. The routes were well-chosen with a wide variety of terrains and sights. This walk made us want to spend more time in beautiful, friendly Portugal. 

Really good walk , a good mix of forest, hills and coast. Reasonably challenging.

The balance of walking and culture was good. At Colina Flora, James and Asta ferried us to two local restaurants which were an excellent choice by them. Whilst staying in Sintra we ate in Lawrence's once but on the second night we were recommended by other walkers to go to Incomum, an excellent restaurant near the station. The address is Rua Dr Alfredo da Costa 22, Sintra. Phone +351 21924 3719

Lots of lovely memories from the holiday. Arriving at Pergola House was a great start as we loved the garden and house and indeed our rooms. The Convento de Sao Saturnino was unusual and interesting. We had expcted to see Johnathon there after he had dropped us off after Cascais but it turns out he doesn't actually live there himself. We were a bit disappointed with our bedroom but it wasn't a big problem. At the end of our circular walk round Peninha we were very grateful for a rest and refreshment at Don Quixote. We had a lovely spot in the garden and enjoyed the late afternoon sun!  En route to Colina Flora we stopped for a long lunch at Adraga beach and so decided to skip the suggested route and walk up the road to Almocageme.

We had amazing views from our room in Colina Flora and James was very helpful in running us to restaurants in the evening. The highlights of the week were Monserrate, Castelo dos Mouros and Pena Palace. Reading about them is one thing but to see them in person is a memorable experience. We were also very happy at Lawrence's hotel.

Highlights: Stay at Pergola house was wonderful introduction to Portugal, with superb hospitality. Walking was full of detailed instruction. Each place of stay was distinctive and different. Given a chance to share food and conversation with other guests at Convent Saturnino is to be recommended for all. 

Wet weather gear would have improved our enjoyment - but I suspect that you did warn us!

The friendliness and cooperation of accommodation staff superseded all expectation. Our dinner arranged by the host at Colina Flora enabled us to experience genuine Fado - a real highlight.

We also enjoyed catching up with fellow Inntravel walkers, and shared lively conversations over dinner along the way.

Track notes were easy to follow - we never got lost, although my husband is excellent at map reading and was able to follow the map along with my interpretation of the notes - and written using excellent grammar!

Pathways and Palaces of Sintra is a truly fabulous walking holiday providing an overall view of the countryside/culture of this area of Portugal. The walks were varied from beaches to cliff tops to forests. All accommodation was excellent and we were made to feel very welcome. Colina Flora was exceptional on many levels: advice on the walks, location, room/garden/pool/food, restaurant recommendation and transport. Visiting the palaces which were all very different and magical. We had an extra day in Lisbon which rounded off the holiday perfectly. Thank you Inntravel for a 'perfect holiday'.

We particularly enjoyed our stay at Convento de Sao Saturnino, it was superb in every respect. Lovely location, interesting layout, and a very tranquil atmosphere. There is one recommendation I would like to make and that is to offer Inntravellers an option of having a lift from the Convento to the main road, when departing on the walk to Pennha. We were lucky enough to get a ride with Jonathan when he drove out to take other Inntravellers to Cabo de Roca, thus saving us steep walk out of the valley.

Uber taxis in Sintra, excellent & cheap.

Restaurant Nau Palatina in Sintra, excellent tapas & run by a delightful couple who use local products and spend time explaining the menu & the local wines. No 1 on TA so may be wise to prebook. 

Pleasant, varied walking, including coastal paths, forest tracks and villages on the way to Sintra. A day in Lisbon is a great way to end the trip.

Highlight was walking through a section of Portugal along paths we would never have found on our own. Length of day walks was just right for taking our time and 'smelling the roses'. As we were a group, cooking our own dinner at Colina Flora was a nice change from eating out.

Palace of Monserrate, the gardens especially beautiful and peaceful. Also the nights spent at Colina Flora, especially one evening when we were taken to a restaurnant to listen to Fado singing. Convento de Sao Saturnino was friendly and the evening meals taken together with other fellow walkers was interresting. Sintra although a very ineresting place was very busy and we found the crowds at Pena Palace and the traffic in general a bit of a shock to the system after the peacefulness of the other locations. But in all a very enjoyable holiday. 

This was a wonderful holiday combining tranquil walks with cultural sights. In April the flowers were covering the hillsides in a great variety of colours. Luckily the sun shone for the whole week of our visit so we enjoyed the most spectacular views. 

There were numerous highlights:

that first welcoming glass of port in the pretty Pergola House garden;

the convivial evening at Sao Saturnino's large dining table with 2 Germans and 2 Canadians discussing Brexit, Trump etc;

the whole stay at Colina Flora with the room that was practically a villa with its own private terrace, the delicious food (best breakfast and picnic lunch ever), and the marvellous arrangements made by James for our evening meals, 

the walks with a myriad of butterflies and no people

looking down into the blowhole,

the stunning architecture of the palaces.

If time permits it would be preferable to have one more day to take the highlights of Sintra at a more leisurely pace.

The diversity of the windflowers we saw on the coastline, and in the woodlands took us by surprise. I think we saw just about every flower we knew the name of at some point in the week. The views were also absolutely breathtaking. Finally despite the close proximity of Lisbon we saw barely anyone on any of the days walks. Made Sintra a bit of a culture shock.

This was our first trip to Portugal. we were lucky enough to have perfect warm spring weather with blue skies and sunshine throughout. The holiday gave us a lovely blend of peaceful countryside, dramatic coastline, charming villages,  breathtaking views, awe inspiring palaces and castles and some of the warmest friendliest people you could wish to meet. Our personal highlight is the experience we shared with our fellow Inntravellers, notably evenings at local restaurants and a vineyard tour all arranged and facilitated by James whilst we stayed at Colina Flora

We thoroughly enjoyed our experience. The accommodations (along with their hosts), meals and scenery were unforgettable.

This walk is a delight, helped by fantastic clear warm weather at the beginning of April. The coastal walks are awe-inspiring, and there is a danger of spending too long just watching the incredible Atlantic rollers. All the hotels are memorable and the hoteliers some of the best we've met in over 20 Inntravel trips. The contrasts between coastal walking, the Sintra Hills walking and then all those wonderful palaces and gardens was remarkable. All of the palaces, castle, gardens and convent are worth visiting for differing reasons.

Very enjoyable trip Sintra at the end was an unexpected delight .

We particularly enjoyed Colina Flora's picnic lunch at the Convento dos Capuchos - it was so peaceful.  We also really enjoyed lunch at Praia do Adraga, delicious!  And walking along the sea cliffs and bluffs in early spring was a special treat with all the wild flowers.  Dinner at Pensiao Sisudo in Almocageme was fantastic, had very good local wine recommendations (Viuva Gomes from Colares DOC, very good) and also enjoyed dinner in In Comum, in Sintra, recommended by Colina Flora.  We much appreciated the path clearing that James (Colina Flora) did as the thorn bushes were quite grown with arrival of spring).  South of Colina Flora, there was extensive clear cutting of invasive eucalyptus trees, some of which were strewn about the walking path, making walking a bit challenging, probably cleared by now.  Side trip to Ulgueira was not worth it, the town was pretty dead, though we did meet a dog who jumped the fence and accompanied us all the way to Praia do Adraga, hope she made it back.  All in all, a very well designed walking holiday for us beginners, it was our first walking holiday.