Citrus Groves & Dramatic Coast

We were lucky in that we had a glorious week's weather at the beginning of March and had an unrestricted holiday immediately prior to the national lockdown resulting from the Covid-19 pandemic. The daytime temperatures were warm, but dropped off noticeably once the sun set behind the surrounding mountains, so guests taking the holiday at a similar time of year would be advised to take warmer clothing, particularly long-sleeved shirts, for the evenings Soller has plenty of opportunities for eating out in the evenings. We particularly enjoyed Ca'n Pintxo and also Ca'n Llimona. The lady owner/chef at the latter was so friendly and welcoming even taking time to advise us to choose one starter between us due to the size of the portion. The included evening dinners at Ca'l Bisbe were also excellent, good value, with reasonably priced wine and friendly staff. We enjoyed all the walks, our particular highlight being the descent from Cuber reservoir through the Barranc de Biniaraix. We only regretted the fact that we didn't have sufficient time to do the walk from Valldemossa or the walk to Cala Tuent.

Great little bustling town a couple of miles from the gorgeous Port Soller. Most walks begin from the town square and take you through the orange, lemon and olive groves. Paths are well-marked and the views well worth the climb. Highlight walk would be to Cala Tuent, catching the boat back. Loads of space on board even if there is a big queue! Good selection of restaurants in Soller; C'an Pinxto, Cafe Parisienne (have a go at Spanish and they'll love you !); and Port Soller; Kingfisher (book ahead). Nice trip into Port Soller on the tram - catch the last one back at 21.05 after dinner. Use the train into Palma from just above the town square as a quaint form of transport, although the bus is cheaper but can be more crowded.

The cobbled walking routes are pretty steep & uneven. We were grateful to have taken comfortable walking boots though we did see many others doing the walks in trainers.

Another perfectly organised holiday with Inntravel. Stayed at Ca's Curial which I highly recommend - wonderful breakfast and also high quality dinners in a lovely setting.

Only hint is to always book restaurants 2 nights ahead - even in October they are full in Soller! Recommendations for dinner:

- La Luna www.luna36.es - fab, went there twice!

- Can Llimona www.canllimonasoller.com. Serves delicious fresh pasta - don't be put off by very small menu or the fact that it looks like a cafe on the outside, there are several rooms upstairs and the owners are so passionate about what they do - highly recommend

- La Vila, Hotel Soller - on the main square but lovely garden at the back - www.lavilahotel.com

Antonio our taxi driver was a delight and very helpful. Hotel was lovely and the staff very friendly and helpful. We loved Soller and found it the perfect balance with plenty to do but not too busy. 

The train journey to Palma was spectacular and not to be missed

Staying in an orange grove whilst the fruit was on the trees made for many photographs! The walk to Fornalutx was just challenging enough to deserve a hearty meal in a local restaurant recommend by Andres the hotel proprietor. Fornalutx village itself is beautiful and in a glorious setting. 

The Hotel Ca's Curial is an ideal spot for relaxing after a good day's walking, idyllic setting and charming host. Soller is a delightful town with a good selection of restuarants and bars. We would highly recommend this holiday for the excellent walking and for the relaxing surroundings. Thank you Inntravel

We have travelled via Inntravel on several occasions now and have never been disappointed. The information packs are superb; the city walks are both accurate and helpful, and the walking routes, again, spot on for accuracy and guidance. The Citrus Groves and Dramatic Coast holiday was excellent for many reasons. The accommodation - C’as Curial - was outstanding; private, peaceful suites in a citrus orchard, run by Andres and his team who were such lovely people. We ate in the hotel some evenings but Soller itself has some good restaurants; we enjoyed Luna 36, Scholl and C’an Llimona. The bakery, Forno Santo Cristo, was excellent for pastries and rolls. The taxi driver, Antonio Horrach, was at the airport to greet us, gave lots of useful information and just added to the smooth running of the holiday. Finally, the walks take you to pretty villages and into the mountains, and are not too strenuous. They are well signed but having the in depth walking notes from Inntravel gave an extra level of confidence.

We returned here for the third time and loved it again. We stayed at Ca’s Curial for seven days. This family-run hotel for adults is also a working ‘finca’ producing oranges and lemons. How wonderful to stay in an oasis of orange and lemon groves, enveloped by the mountains, about 5-10 minutes from the centre of Sóller! The place has heart, and Andreu works hard to ensure your stay is relaxed. Breakfasts are delicious and the Easter Sunday breakfast, with its wonderful decoration, was a sumptuous feast (Easter celebrations are big in Sóller with many parades). The ‘suites' are individual, all well-equipped, with a bedroom and lounging area, tea/coffee making facilities, fridge, dressing gowns and slippers. Most have outdoor seating or a balcony. Breakfast can be taken outdoors if warm enough. The swimming pool area is private and quiet with an honesty bar. 
The walking - great walks but do be prepared for lots of up and downhill and, at times, uneven and stony paths. We recommend taking sturdy walking boots with ankle support even in warm weather. Great notes as usual from Inntravel. This time we managed the four and half hour descent from the Cuber Reservoir. Go when the weather is clear for the views and allow at least 6 hours so you have time for bird watching, and relaxing lunch stop...take your own.
The weather - bring layers and waterproofs, especially early spring. You need everything from woolly jumpers to light-weight summer wear and sun protection. We had high winds towards the end of our stay. Mornings and evenings can be chilly in spring.
Transport - buses are cheaper than train or tram, but the tram to Port Soller is fun. Buses and trams can get quite full, you aren’t guaranteed to get on. Check the bus timetables in the low season or in fiesta days.
Places to eat
In Soller - Ca’n Boqueta, Ca’n Llimona (vegetarian pasta hand-made with love), Port Soller -  El Sabor for inventive tapas lunch. For tea, cakes and quiches and great views stop at Finca Son Mico (on the GR211). To pick up lunch before your walk try AINERE, this bakery/delicattessan is near to the Modern Art Gallery - it sells fresh bread, salads, cakes, cookies and pies, including vegetarian options. 
Places to visit - Soller modern art museum, the small free museum at the Soller station, Ecovinyassa, Palma (especially the cathedral and the art deco architecture), the local shops, delicatessens and the Saturday market.

Overall the holiday more than met your usual standards - only drawback the bathroom.

Beautiful hotel in a stunning setting. The family who run it are delightful and couldn’t have been more helpful. Wonderful walks helped by unseasonably hot weather in March!

Our highlight? The rainbow effect of the light through the rose window onto the floor and pillars in Palma Cathedral.

Our personal highlight was the walk form the Cuber Lake back to Soller  - Walk 3 "Along Pilgrims' Paths". The descent through the Gorge following the ancient stone 'pilgrims' path was even more beautiful than we had imagined it would be. The path contours around the cliffs  with wonderful views but is in no way dangerous or difficult. We met many young children with their parents!

Two recommendations for eating are worth mentioning. The first is a bakery which also has a cafe (quite spacious in the rear of the shop). It is called Forno Sto Cristo in Calle de Sa Lluna and it sells wonderful Spanish pastries and cakes, sweet and savoury, to eat in or take out. It is a good place for lunch and has plenty seating at the back.

The second is a very well run, friendly restaurant called Luna 36, also in Calle de Sa Lluna, which has a variety of good Spanish dishes in a modern style in beautifully decorated rooms. It is small so it is advisable to book for dinner.

Our first trip to this lovely island and we would definitely return again. A delightful hotel in an ideal location for easy access to the town square with its array of shops and cafes. Tucked away in a side street, Ca'l Bisbe was an oasis of calm and the staff could not have been more helpful. Lovely rooms, fabulous breakfast and very inviting pool and gardens. We could not fault it. Taking the tram down to Port de Soller on a balmy evening and having an amazing seafood paella overlooking the marina was one of the many memorable evenings that we both enjoyed. We also loved the vibrant atmosphere of Ca'n Pintxo, a great tapas bar. Another must after a day out walking, was heading to the Forno Santo Cristo for afternoon tea and one of their scrumptious ensaimadas. Favourite walk was the descent from the Cuber Reservoir along the ancient pilgrim trails, with spectacular views. Excellent choice of walks - so much more to see and do that we will have to return!

Another excellent Inntravel holiday. Ca's Curial is first class in a great setting, quiet but close enough to the centre of Soller with a most helpful host.

The walking provides a range of spectacular views from each of the varied routes. The paths are cobbled and hard underfoot, you do need sturdy boots or walking shoes. We would grade the walks as all at least moderate due to the underfoot conditions, some long ascents and, for us at least, very hot weather with temperatures in the thirties (about 5 or so degrees higher than the locals expected).

We did not find that we needed to take food with us (plenty of water is a must!) but did pick up some sandwiches and pies after walking at Ainere (near Can Prunera) and Santo Cristo Bakery (on Lluna as you turn into main square in Soller).

We ate at Lluna 36 where the fish of the day was excellent, Ca'n Boqueta which has a reasonably priced tasting menu and Ca'n Llimona which is quirky. All required booking, the hotel is happy to do this for you. For ice cream and sorbets Ca'n Pau (near the main square next to La Vila) is highly recommended.

In addition to walking, the Ca'n Prunera art museum is worth a visit (if only for the building) and there are also free Picasso and Joan Miro exhibitions at the railway station.

The biggest downside to the holiday is the insects and insect bites! Insect repellent and insect repellent clothing is strongly recommended! Local buses are potentially risky! We tried to go to Deia by bus but despite the fact that two vehicles were provided for the 0935, they were both full and at least a dozen did not get aboard ( I am pleased to say that the hotel hastily ordered a taxi for us and we ended up at Deia at much the same time anyway). At the moment the bus to Cuber is 0840 which we thought was frankly too early so order a taxi the night before (cost @33 euros) because you should not miss this particular walk!).

All in all very enjoyable walking with a wonderful hotel to relax in at the end of the day!

Highlights:

Visit to Botanic garden in Soller.

Walk back from Fornalutx is a comfortable degree of difficulty even on a very hot day.

Trip to Palma on ancient train returning by very comfortable bus.

We loved exploring Deija - and the walk from there to Port Soller was particularly beautiful. Dinner on the patio at C’al Bisbe was a great treat -delicious food, attentive staff and watching the mountains turn a glorious pink with the setting sun. We’d love to return!

Idyllic, calming and a place that you'll want to visit again and again - its like coming home to a home you've always wanted.

Sunny and warm September with a small number of rain showers. Pleased we had brought walking boots and walking poles as terrain rocky. Ca’s Curial very pleasant and Andres a very friendly and helpful host. Robert Graves house was one highlight as were the small modern art museum and botanic gardens in Sóller. Train and tram rides are great fun but are becoming pricey at 2018 euro exchange rates. We also used taxis and buses and may consider hiring a car for a day if we go again as we would like to see more of the coast. We hadn’t been to Mallorca before and found the people really friendly and Sóller delightful. 

Take the tram down to the port and back only once! It is expensive and the bus is really cheap.

Take the train to Palma and back as it is a really fascinating experience going through the mountains.

The bus drivers who drive the bus to Deia and Valdemossa deserve medals. How are they not exhausted by the endless hairpins and traffic?

Valdemossa was not over run by tourists as we had expected, but clearly there are thieves in the smallest towns.

Clearly there is no love lost between the people who own the rights to Chopin's cell and those who own the rights to the monastery. If we even looked through the wrong door, we earned a quick rebuke!

Restaurant Luna 36 in Soller won our prize for the best meal of the week. Please mention it. La Casona gave us the best Aglio Olio ever! Beware the hype around Casa Alvaro - one good meal and one absolute disaster, as experienced by us and by onther group at the same time.

Ca'l Bisbe is an oasis of tranquillity just five minutes from the centre of Soller. The pool is the perfect place to relax tired limbs with a chilled glass of wine after a day walking in the Sierra Tramuntana or exploring Palma. The staff at Ca'l Bisbe are both friendly and helpful to make for a magic holiday.  We can't wait to return!