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Slow Lane Magazine, May 2019
Insights and stories from across Europe and beyond
  • favourite (but oft-forgotten) festivals
  • Nepal's secret valley
  • boutique beauty in Drôme Provençale
  • carving out a future in southern Italy
  • Inntravellers' Tales – our new writing competition
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On the Trail of the Habsburgs

Imperial cities & iconic coffee houses
 
For centuries, the Habsburgs were Central Europe’s most influential rulers. On this self-guided, cultural journey by train along Europe’s first Alpine railway, you can delve into their fascinating past as you follow our self-guided walking tours through Vienna, Graz, Ljubljana and Trieste.
On the Trail of the Habsburgs. 8 nights
On the Trail of the Habsburgs. 8 nights
 

Holiday information

 

A touring holiday in Central Europe

For centuries, they were Central Europe’s most influential rulers, with an empire that stretched from the Russian border to the Adriatic. And though the sprawling palaces and splendid summer residences of the Habsburgs have long lain empty, their legacy lives on – in the magnificent architecture and overflowing art galleries that still define the cities they once controlled, and in the pioneering railway which connects them.
On this fascinating journey along a former Habsburg trading route, we lead you to four different cities – Vienna, Graz, Ljubljana and Trieste – united both by their common imperial past and their shared role in Europe’s first coffee craze. It’s not known exactly when the Habsburgs enjoyed their first sip of coffee – legends tell of a retreating Ottoman army leaving behind sacks of beans in Vienna in the 17th century – but coffee houses soon became part of the fabric of the empire, convivial spaces expressly designed for lingering, preferably with a slice of Sachertorte. On this holiday, there’s plenty of time to indulge in the delights of the Kaffeehaus, and to succumb to the many other charms of these four captivating cities.

The city that put coffee in our cups
What have the Habsburgs ever done for us, asks Chris Leadbeater of The Telegraph, as he delves into the history of Trieste, Italy's 'unheralded' but fascinating northern port-city. Read his article >
 
Gallery
 

Itinerary

The key to Inntravel holidays is flexibility. You can start on the day of your choice, and are free to add extra nights.
  • Arrival in Vienna
    Night 1: at Hotel Kaiserhof (the first of two nights here).
    As your first night’s accommodation is on the day of travel, Day 1 is your first day of exploration.
  • Explore Vienna
    Austria’s sophisticated capital is a city which needs little introduction. The former headquarters of the Habsburgs, Vienna is a place with a taste for the finer things in life, be they the exquisite orchestral performances given in the prestigious Musikverein or cups of freshly ground coffee sipped amid the gleaming interiors of a traditional Kaffeehaus. With a full day here, there’s time to take in all of the city’s major sights: see the many works of art and architectural treasures of the Hofburg Palace, described as a ‘city within a city’; wonder at the no-expense-spared Baroque Schloss Schönbrunn, in whose Hall of Mirrors the six-year-old Mozart astonished the Empress Maria-Theresa with his precocious talents; and make the trip to the Spanish Riding School to see the famous ballet-dancing horses in action.
  • Vienna to Graz
    Leaving Vienna, you follow the trail of imperial ambition south to Graz, on the ground-breaking railway line commissioned by Emperor Franz Josef. Completed in 1854, the UNESCO-listed Semmeringbahn is a monumental feat of engineering, whisking passengers through the mountains by means of a spectacular series of tunnels and double-decker viaducts. Once in Graz, you spend two nights at the Hotel zum Dom, ideally located for seeing the city’s unique blend of ancient and modern sights.
  • Explore Graz
    Often described as a ‘Vienna in miniature’, Austria’s second city has plenty to interest the visitor, yet remains relatively undiscovered. As well as the wonderfully preserved Old Town, iconic Clock Tower, ornate Gothic cathedral and postcard-perfect hill-top castle, Graz is also home to a futuristic art gallery known locally as ‘the friendly alien’, and the Murinsel – an artificial, floating island-cum-bridge where you can enjoy a coffee as the river rushes by.
  • Graz to Ljubljana
    Today’s rail journey sees you continue south through Mitteleuropa, crossing the border from Austria into Slovenia.
    Your destination is Ljubljana, a welcoming city with a diverse cultural heritage. You stay at the Allegro Hotel, a characterful boutique hotel housed in a restored medieval house. We also work with the stylish Angel Hotel, as well as the friendly Pension Slamic.
  • Explore Ljubljana
    Slovenia's verdant capital rivals Vienna as a pocket-sized, easily navigated city shaped by the Art Nouveau and Viennese architects of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Key sights include the intriguing Triple Bridge and panoramic 12th-century castle, but the best way to get to know Ljubljana is simply to stroll its narrow, traffic-free streets, take a boat tour along the willow-lined Ljubljanica River which flows through the middle of the city, or visit the vibrant farmers' market held in the heart of the Old Town (closed Sundays).
  • Ljubljana to Trieste
    As you cross the Slovenian Karst and make your way towards your final destination, the Italian port-city of Trieste, the sense of being at the crossroads of Europe intensifies – especially when you pass through the former Iron Curtain border at Sežana, featured in Ian Fleming’s From Russia with Love. From here, your route leads into the heart of Prosecco country before finally arriving in Trieste, where your final two nights are spent at the Savoia Excelsior Palace, a magnificent hotel on the seafront.
  • Explore Trieste
    Declared a free port in 1719, Trieste has long been a melting pot of cultures, languages and ethnicities, a juncture of east and west and gateway to the rest of the Habsburgs’ lands. You’ll feel it in the incredible variety of architecture – Orthodox cathedrals rub shoulders with ancient Roman remains and Italianate squares – and in the ubiquitous coffee houses, remnants from the days when this coastal city was the trading heart of a mighty empire (even today Trieste remains the headquarters of coffee giants Illy). Spend your full day here exploring the impressive neoclassical buildings and boulevards of the medieval core; the huge Piazza Unità d'Italia and Canal Grande, both of which bear more than a passing resemblance to their more famous counterparts in Venice; Viale Joyce – a street named for the Irish author James Joyce, who made Trieste his home for many years; and the nearby Miramare Castle, a 19th-century Gothic masterpiece situated on a rocky outcrop.
 

Accommodation

All four hotels are very well located for exploring.

Please note: most beds in Austrian hotels are normally one large base with two mattresses/duvets. We refer to these as 'Austrian Twins' and they are locally regarded to serve requests for both double and twin bedded rooms. Separate twin beds or traditional double beds with one large mattress are rare and cannot be guaranteed.

Occasionally, due to availability, we may offer an alternative hotel, as shown below. You will be informed of any change to the usual hotel (along with any price implication) prior to us confirming your holiday to you.

Wherever you stay in Ljubljana, we recommend an extra night in Slovenia's lovely capital. In fact, we recommend adding an extra night in all four cities, as there is plenty to explore in each!
 
 

Extend your stay

 
Prices & travel options
All prices are in £ sterling (GBP). If you'd like to see what they equate to in your currency, use the converter.
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  • 8 nights: 01 April - 31 October 2019

    Start any day | End by latest date(s) shown above

    Starting Price Single room
    1 - 12 April £995 £360
    13 - 25 April # £1040 £365
    26 - 30 April £1070 £375
    1 May - 25 September # £1095 £380
    26 - 30 September £1070 £375
    1 - 10 October £1040 £365
    11 - 23 October § £995 £360
    3rd & 4th person discount £0
    Single traveller supplement £0

    Includes accommodation, meals, travel between hotels and any other services integral to the holiday as described, plus a detailed information pack, but no travel from the UK, nor any connecting travel from the airport unless stated below.

    # ADD £35pp/n (£40pn in a single room) if staying in Vienna 18-21 Apr; 30 May-1 Jun; 7-9 Jun; 20-25 Jun; 18-20 Sep 2019
    § ADD £120pp/n (£150pn in a single room) if staying in Trieste 11-12 Oct 2019

    Included travel: Vienna–Graz–Bled–Ljubljana–Trieste by rail

    Pay locally for taxis to and from the railways stations.

    Book your flights through us and we'll find the best route and times to suit you. Please contact us to find out more about our flight booking service. We can also book connecting travel - see below.

  • Room upgrades (£ per person per night)

    Hotel Kaiserhof
    Junior suite: 01 Apr - 31 Oct 2019 £38
    Hotel zum Dom – Palais Inzaghi
    Comfort 'Inzaghi': 01 Apr - 31 Oct 2019 £12
    Suite: 01 Apr - 31 Oct 2019 £18
    Allegro Hotel
    Superior: 01 Apr - 30 Apr 2019 £6
    Superior: 01 May - 30 Sep 2019 £10
    Superior: 01 Oct - 31 Oct 2019 £6
    Superior suite: 01 Apr - 31 Oct 2019 £50
    Savoia Excelsior Palace
    Deluxe with sea view & balcony: 01 Apr - 10 Oct 2019 £25
    Deluxe with sea view & balcony: 11 Oct - 12 Oct 2019 £40
    Deluxe with sea view & balcony: 13 Oct - 31 Oct 2019 £25

    Extra nights (£ per person per night) in a double or single room

    Hotel Kaiserhof (B&B) Double room Single room
    15 Apr - 30 Jun 2019 # £102 £144
    01 Jul - 31 Aug 2019 £97 £133
    01 Sep - 31 Oct 2019 # £102 £144
    # ADD £35pp/n (£40pn in a single room) if staying in Vienna 18-21 Apr; 30 May-1 Jun; 7-9 Jun; 20-25 Jun; 18-20 Sep 2019
    Hotel zum Dom – Palais Inzaghi (B&B) Double room Single room
    01 Apr - 30 Apr 2019 £75 £103
    01 May - 30 Jun 2019 £82 £110
    01 Jul - 31 Aug 2019 £75 £103
    01 Sep - 30 Sep 2019 £82 £110
    01 Oct - 31 Oct 2019 £75 £103
    Allegro Hotel (B&B) Double room Single room
    01 Apr - 29 Apr 2019 £65 £85
    30 Apr - 30 Sep 2019 £75 £100
    01 Oct - 29 Oct 2019 £65 £85
    Savoia Excelsior Palace (B&B) Double room Single room
    01 Apr - 29 Oct 2019 £80 £135
    Add £120pp/n (£150pn in a single room) if staying in Trieste 11-12 Oct 2019
  • RECOMMENDED AIRPORT(S):
    Vienna (return from Trieste or Venice Marco Polo)

    Travelling from the UK

    Travelling from outside the UK

    If you are flying from outside Europe,  we recommend flying into Munich and out of Milan.  To discuss onward connecting travel to the start of your holiday, please contact us.

    Travelling from outside the UK
    We have many years' experience catering for customers who live outside the UK, and will be happy to make tailored arrangements to fit with your plans.

    You have two options:

    1) Book your own flights to London, from where we can book flights and onward connecting travel to your hotel.

    2) Book your own flights direct to an airport appropriate to your chosen holiday. You can either make your own way from the airport to the hotel, or we'll be happy to book onward connecting travel for you. Please consult with us before booking your flights, so that we can advise you on the suitability of your proposed route and timings.
    Outward route Airline
    Birmingham - Vienna Eurowings 
    Return route Airline
    Venice - Birmingham (via Frankfurt) Lufthansa 
    Outward route Airline
    Bristol - Vienna easyJet 
    Return route Airline
    Venice Marco Polo - Bristol easyJet,  Ryanair 
    Outward route Airline
    Edinburgh - Vienna easyJet,  jet2 
    Return route Airline
    Venice Marco Polo - Edinburgh easyJet,  jet2 
    Outward route Airline
    Gatwick - Vienna British Airways,  easyJet 
    Return route Airline
    Venice Marco Polo - Gatwick British Airways,  easyJet,  TUI 
    Outward route Airline
    Heathrow - Vienna Austrian Airlines,  British Airways 
    Return route Airline
    Trieste - Heathrow (via Munich) Lufthansa 
    Venice Marco Polo - Heathrow British Airways 
    Outward route Airline
    Luton - Vienna easyJet 
    Return route Airline
    Venice Marco Polo - Luton easyJet 
    Outward route Airline
    London Southend - Vienna Flybe 
    Return route Airline
    Venice Marco Polo - London Southend Flybe 
    Outward route Airline
    Stansted - Vienna Eurowings,  Ryanair 
    Return route Airline
    Trieste - Stansted Ryanair 
    Venice Marco Polo - Stansted Ryanair 
    Outward route Airline
    Manchester - Vienna Austrian Airlines,  easyJet 
    Return route Airline
    Venice Marco Polo - Manchester easyJet,  jet2,  TUI 
    Travelling from outside the UK

    If you are flying from outside Europe,  we recommend flying into Munich and out of Milan.  To discuss onward connecting travel to the start of your holiday, please contact us.

    This list of flight options should be used as a guide only, and you should check each airline’s website for current routes, frequency and schedules. Not all flights operate daily, and may not run for the entire season. You should also heed the latest flight arrival time and earliest flight departure time, as it may not be possible to arrange connecting travel outside these times. Please do not book your flights until we have confirmed your accommodation to you. Alternatively, our expert reservations team will be happy to offer advice and to make flight bookings for you. We charge £30 per person for our flight booking service (£50 for India and Nepal). Your flights are then covered by our package-booking conditions, which give you greater protection in the event of delay or cancellation, as well as providing ATOL cover.

  • Prices below are based on 2 people travelling together.

    Connecting travel options - flying to Vienna & back from Trieste

    Outward route Price per person Latest flight
    arrival time
    own travel arrangements from the airport to the hotel pay locally flexible
    Homeward route Price per person Earliest flight
    departure time
    own travel arrangements from the hotel to the airport pay locally flexible

    Connecting travel options - flying to Vienna & back from Venice Marco Polo

    Outward route Price per person Latest flight
    arrival time
    own travel arrangements from the airport to the hotel pay locally flexible
    Homeward route Price per person Earliest flight
    departure time
    bus Trieste to Venice airport (1h50) £9 varies - contact us
    rail Trieste to Venice Mestre station (1h55) £22 1300
What is included
  • 8 nights
  • 8 breakfasts
  • city maps and notes for walking tours
  • detailed cultural information
  • rail travel Vienna-Graz-Ljubljana-Trieste
 
Reviews

If you've experienced this holiday first hand, why not write a review?

We are keen for as many customers as possible to review their holiday. To make it easier to do so, we include a specific review section on our post-holiday questionnaire, and this is what we publish here, unedited. Read our full review policy >

All 5 reviews
  • Anon
    30 May 2019

    Both Graz (of which I shamefully had never heard and where we saw someone hoovering the cobbles outside her shop) and Ljubljana were something of a revelation to us. Trieste fine as a destination but maybe not wildly exciting - quite scruffy and noisy and a bit like home. We followed up a number of your restaurant recommendations and did well. 

  • Carol & Steve, Worcester
    06 May 2019

    Overall this was a well planned and enjoyable trail - though in our case despite going in May, the weather could have been better!

    Definitely an extra day is needed in Vienna to do it all justice. The recommended Entler restaurant was an excellent choice but it is best to book and you should take cash as it does not accept cards. We would also recommend the small Sud-Lander Bistro in Rilkeplatz for a simple meal in friendly surroundings which is close to the hotel.

    For Graz we would certainly recommend Die Herzl Weinstube in Propopigasse which has plenty of seating and efficient service. We loved the trams in Graz and the ease of riding about the town and going to/from the station.

    In Ljubljana we found everyone to be very friendly and helpful and enjoyed the walk up to the castle and along both sides of the riverbank. The Julija restaurant was superb though we could only manage lunch there as in the evenings it was fully booked even by mid afternoon.

    In Trieste we found the Ai Fiori restaurant in Piazza Attilio Hortis provided excellent service (though with delicate sized portions) and overall we counted it as our best meal of the holiday.

  • Mrs H Hornby
    Lytham St Annes
    29 April 2019

    As a 71 year-old with long held desire to visit Trieste, I was immediately drawn. Thank you for the opportunity to proceed at my own pace & for the security of arrangements. Notes were very interesting and accurate.

  • Anon
    15 April 2019

    Map of Semmering rail route would have been good. Holiday was fascinating because of chance to experience different cities and journey between them. They were connected in theory by the Habsburgs but the real joy was in seeing 4 different contemporary cities and watching countryside pass from train window.

  • Anonymous
    09 April 2019

    Thank you Inntravel for this enjoyable holiday and for the wonderful service you provide! The theme of the holiday, On the trail of the Habsburgs, was very interesting and we found the notes and walks very good. We so enjoyed the rail journeys, especially the ones through the mountains from Graz to Ljubljana, and Ljubljana to Trieste. The countryside was lovely. We only stayed 2 nights in Vienna and we wished we had booked 3 as there was so much to see and do. In the one full day we had there, we only managed to visit the Schatzkammer for 2 hours in the morning, and the Imperial Apartments on a guided English tour in the afternoon. We walked up Kartnerstrasse and visited Stephansdom over the noon hour. We did squeeze in a visit to Cafe Schwarzenberg and enjoyed coffee and cake! As we had booked tickets for a Mozart concert at the Musikverein that evening, we had an early dinner at Restaurant Plachutta which was very good. We were sad to leave the next morning for Graz as we missed visiting Schonbrunn. Maybe next time!

    We enjoyed Graz. As we were there on a Monday, some restaurants were closed. We did enjoy local Austrian cuisine at Die Herzl Weinstube, open on a Monday, at Prokopigasse 12/ Mehlplatz. We had dinner on the Sunday at Gasthaus Stainzerbauer recommended by Inntravel and the food was excellent.

    Ljubljana was delightful. We enjoyed meals at 2 restaurants recommended by Inntravel: Taverna Tatjana and Spajza, which are both very close to the hotel. We also went to Julia on Stari trg and had excellent local Slovenian cuisine.

    In Trieste, I celebrated my 70th birthday. On returning to the hotel that evening, there was a beautiful surprise of a box of chocolates and lovely note from Matteo, the front house manager, wishing me Happy Birthday. That was so kind and a special touch to end the day. Thank you so much Savoia Excelsior Palace! It is a beautiful hotel.

    Thanks again Inntravel! We went on one of your Portugal train trips and that was wonderful. This one was equally so!
 

FAQs

If you have any questions relating to this or any other Inntravel holiday, our friendly travel experts will be happy to help.
  • The information that we send to you 2-3 weeks before your holiday includes practical information about each stage of your journey so that you can travel confidently from one hotel to another, recommendations for places to visit and eat out in each place, plus cultural information about the area. Where applicable, we also provide notes for a self-guided walking tour of most cities, and some large towns. Sample travel pack >
  • We can book a wide range of airlines and routes from the UK. As well as being more convenient for you to book all elements of your holiday together, it also means that we’ll accept liability for your travel arrangements, so if things go wrong, such as the airline going bust, we’ll make suitable alternative arrangements for you. For Europe and Morocco, there’s a £30 booking fee per person (£15 for children aged 2-11). For India and Nepal, the booking fee is £50 per person. More information on flights >
  • Absolutely! We are experts in tailored rail travel. Making use of sleeper trains or stopovers in cities along the route, we can get you from London to virtually anywhere in mainland Europe. We can even make arrangements to Mallorca, Sicily and Norway with a combination of ferries and rail. Please contact Abi to discuss your plans.
  • We can’t book flights that originate outside the UK, but if you wanted book your own flights to London (or elsewhere in the UK), we can make all onward travel arrangements (including flights) from there. Alternatively, if you are booking your own flights to an airport in continental Europe that’s appropriate for your holiday, we can book onward rail travel and/or taxis. More information about how we can tailor holidays for customers outside the UK >
  • Once you’ve decided on your exact itinerary (our travel experts will be happy to offer advice), you need to provide us with your party’s details, either by phone or via our booking form. At this point we also ask you to pay a deposit so that we can secure a room for you immediately on confirming availability with the hotel(s). If it turns out that we can’t secure the accommodation for the holiday you’ve requested, or offer an acceptable alternative, we’ll refund your deposit promptly and in full. After booking your accommodation and other key elements, we'll then book your travel (or you can do so if you’re making your own arrangements) and send you a Booking Confirmation and Invoice.
  • Yes, it’s something we insist on, even for holidays in the UK. The vast majority of holidays go smoothly, but when things go wrong, it can be expensive to put them right. Buying a new pair of walking boots after your suitcase is stolen mightn’t seem so bad, but the bill for being airlifted down from a mountain with a broken leg or flown home while still recovering from an illness or accident can cost tens of thousands of pounds.

    You don’t have to buy our policy (if you live outside Europe you’ll definitely need to make your own arrangements, as the policy is only for UK and EU residents), but you do need to make sure that you’re covered for medical emergencies and repatriation. We also recommend that you are covered for other eventualities, such as cancellation and loss of luggage and passports.
  • It is your responsibility to ensure you are in possession of the correct travel documents, with the correct validity. If you’re a UK citizen, you need a full British passport to travel to Austria, but not a visa (if you are travelling after 31 October 2019, see the Brexit question below for more information). If you are a citizen of another country, you’ll need to check requirements with the national embassy or your own consulate.

    Current information regarding vaccinations and travel health advice can be found through the following NHS link: www.fitfortravel.nhs.uk/advice/ You must make sure you have adequate insurance cover for illness, accidents and repatriation (see the insurance question). UK citizens should also obtain a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) by applying at a Post Office or at www.ehic.org.uk. The EHIC allows reciprocal health care but should not be seen as a substitute for travel insurance. EHICs may cease to be valid in the event of a no-deal Brexit.
  • (Austrian) German is the most commonly spoken language. The currency is the Euro. Austrian time is GMT/UTC + 1. It uses Daylight Saving Time, so in summer is on BST + 1.
  • It is your responsibility to ensure you are in possession of the correct travel documents, with the correct validity. If you’re a UK citizen, you need a full British passport to travel to Slovenia, but not a visa (if you are travelling after 31 October 2019, see the Brexit question below for more information). If you are a citizen of another country, you’ll need to check requirements with the national embassy or your own consulate.

    Current information regarding vaccinations and travel health advice can be found through the following NHS link: www.fitfortravel.nhs.uk/advice/ You must make sure you have adequate insurance cover for illness, accidents and repatriation (see the insurance question). UK citizens should also obtain a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) by applying at a Post Office or at www.ehic.org.uk. The EHIC allows reciprocal health care but should not be seen as a substitute for travel insurance. EHICs may cease to be valid in the event of a no-deal Brexit.
  • The official language is Slovene, although Italian is spoken by many people along the border with Italy. The currency is the Euro. Slovenian time is GMT/UTC + 1. It uses Daylight Saving Time, so in summer is on BST + 1.
  • It is your responsibility to ensure you are in possession of the correct travel documents, with the correct validity. If you’re a UK citizen, you need a full British passport to travel to Italy, but not a visa (if you are travelling after 31 October 2019, see the Brexit question below for more information). If you are a citizen of another country, you’ll need to check requirements with the national embassy or your own consulate.

    Current information regarding vaccinations and travel health advice can be found through the following NHS link: www.fitfortravel.nhs.uk/advice/ You must make sure you have adequate insurance cover for illness, accidents and repatriation (see the insurance question). UK citizens should also obtain a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) by applying at a Post Office or at www.ehic.org.uk. The EHIC allows reciprocal health care but should not be seen as a substitute for travel insurance. EHICs may cease to be valid in the event of a no-deal Brexit.
  • The principal official language is Italian, though some regions have a second official language, such as South Tyrol, where German is widely spoken. The currency is the Euro. Italian time is GMT/UTC + 1. It uses Daylight Saving Time, so in summer is on BST + 1.
  • Even in the event of a no-deal Brexit, it’s been confirmed that flights will continue as normal and that you won’t need a visa to go on holiday (the limit on stays is 90 days). What you will need if there’s no deal is a passport that is valid for at least 6 months beyond the date of your arrival (extra months added because you renewed your passport early do not count) and adequate travel insurance to cover you for accidents and illness in case reciprocal health deals are suspended. If you are driving while on holiday, you will probably need an International Driving Permit (plus a Green Card if you are taking your own car to Europe). More information >
  • The UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) provides up-to-date, country-by-country travel advice, as well as information on security, local laws, passports and visas for UK citizens.
    If you live outside the UK, see our essential travel information page for a list of relevant websites.
Last fetch time is : 7/22/2019 9:29:14 AM