Madeira – Waterways & Flowers

Madeira had been on my go-to list for years, and so I was so pleased that it had remained COVID-19 'safe' to be able to go. Planning a trip during a pandemic wasn't the most stress-free process (from not knowing if the trip/flights would be cancelled, to getting and waiting for results for a COVID-19 test before departure, to following new procedures at the airports etc), but the Inntravel team were very clear with their communications and keeping me informed of changes to my in-country itinerary, what their cancellation policies were, and supporting me on some issues I had with British Airways (even though Inntravel didn't book my flights). I only recently found out about Inntravel when I was reading a very old article about slow travel that I ripped out of a newspaper and had put away in a folder. It ticked all of the boxes in terms of a) desperately wanting an active holiday, b) planning on solo travel, c) being a time-efficient trip (in regards to the planning of it). I feel this is the main benefit of using Inntravel in that everything is organised. So if, like me, you are time-poor because of your job and other life responsibilities then this is a way to have an independent, sometimes physically challenging travel experience that you don't have to do too much planning or thinking about leading up to it. Another benefit is that half of the hiking days/itineraries that Inntravel set me on were not known by / being used by other tourists. Which definitely made my experience in, and my decision to book with Inntravel for Madeira more worthwhile.    

Our sixth Inntravel walking holiday and as usual it lived up to expectations. The hotels and included meals all lovely and after two weeks of travelling through Portugal, a treat to be so well looked after. The restaurant recommendations of previous travellers in Funchal and Porta da Cruz were very good. We were very glad to have included Madeira in our travel plans.

Not having to towel down after swimming in the green cauldron, we were soaked when we took our clothes off and put them back on wet when we got out. (We had trunks on!). The verdant vegetation was beautiful particularly the ferns. We are keen gardeners. The chaffinches eating off our hands, you'll know where. The hotels were great, maybe Costa Linda dissapointed with room size, but hey the location! And and A Pipa's the best meal of the week, loved the place, loved the beef skewers (more like half a cow!). Great tip. Although the Vin American with "Little Joe" across the road pre-dinner was not an experience to be repeated. Despite being like walking prunes for certainly 2 days it is not an experience I would wish to have missed. My feedback is intended to be objective, not a moan.

We loved the levada walking and will be back for more but at a different time of year. Mid October in the mountains was misty and ocassionally very wet so we missed the amazing views and several times had to negotiate deeper streams and run through waterfalls cascading over the levada path. This added to the adventure but we were extremely wet. As we expected, we were too late for the agapanthus lining the levadas. The 4* hotels and included meals were all excellent and the indoor pools were a bonus. The Costa Linda was basic but chosen for its beautiful location. Despite the weather, we enjoyed our walking holiday and as always the service offered by Inntravel and walking notes were excellent. We would highly recommend this holiday but earlier in the year.

Madeira is a beautiful island and Inntravel have devised a great holiday to showcase a good range of the local scenery, villages and culture with some exhilarating and beautiful walks. All the hotels were good but we particularly enjoyed the first hotel, Quinta do Furao in Santana, which has a fabulous setting on the cliff top and surrounded by vineyards. The hotel itself is very comfortable, our room had a lovely coastal view and we liked the layout with different sections for the hotel, restaurant and pub. The food was very good, it was lovely to be able to eat on the balcony overlooking the coast, and I had the best gin and tonic I have ever had in the pub (but sadly only one lady seemed to have the knack!). The hot tub provided welcome relaxation for the legs at the end of a walk too!

All walking is well planned with excellent directions and the taxi to the top of the hills is a great idea. Most of the walking is therefore flat along the levadas, although the descents at the end of each day tend to be quite steep and a bit slippery in rainy weather. Our favourite levada walk was on day 2 from Roque de Fail along the Levada Castelejo as we happened to have lovely weather that day so could enjoy the views (in October we found that the weather can be mixed and the views shrouded in cloud on some days). Even in cloud however the other walks were very enjoyable and you just looked at different things!  We also thoroughly enjoyed, as a contrast, the alternative walk on day 1 to Praia de Calhau and the Sao Lourenca peninsula walk on day 4. It was good to have the opportunity to walk along the coast as well as inland to add to the variety. For Sao Lourenca we shared a taxi with another couple to the peninsula (organised by the hotel) and then caught the local bus back which was very easy and cheap. We had a stop of about an hour in Machico to change buses but it's a nice little town with a couple of interesting churches and a good spot to have a drink after the walk on the peninsula.

Funchal is a lovely city and the gardens at Monte are well worth a visit. There is a lot to do, but beware that most things are closed on Sundays so plan accordingly. We ate well every evening but would particularly recommend these restaurants: Kampo - excellent and creative cooking focusing on meat dishes and fabulous puddings. You can either sit at the counter to watch the cooking in the open kitchen, in the restaurant or outside. Akua - sister restaurant of Kampo but focusing on excellent fish and in the same road. Combatentes – good Portuguese style food (only inside tables). All are in easy walking distance of the hotel (which is well located and very comfortable) but we would recommend booking as they are all popular.

A great holiday which we would thoroughly recommend.

A unique experience with much historical and cultural interest whilst walking levadas carved into the mountainside. No crowds just peace and beautiful countryside. I particularly loved watching the local birds, all the amazing lizards and spotting fish in the levadas. A truly friendly island. Do bring wet weather gear as it does rain. The notes provided by Inntravel were brilliant, spot on, we didn't have one issue with finding our way. The walks can be challenging so you feel a great sense of achievement at the end of a walk. Overall a great walking holiday. We went at our own pace without any constraints.  

This was our first real walking holiday with Inntravel as we have been cyclists until this trip but we thoroughly enjoyed it and were pleased with our ability to cope with the challenges - (at our advanced ages!). We loved Quinta do Furão for its setting and views of the mountains and also its food and facilities - the staff were exemplary including the lady in the downstairs bar who went to the trouble of finding out about the cocktail of the day so she could make it for us! We joined in with the grape picking to be rewarded with a glass of the wine and profuse thanks from the owners of the hotel. The taxi transfers to the start of each day’s walking meant we couldn’t really get lost and local people we met along the way were so friendly (more grapes given as a gesture to ease our lungs and legs at the top of a long climb of steps). Swimming in the seawater pool at Hotel Costa Linda was a real treat - so refreshing after the descent from the path to the village. NB the hotel sells discounted tickets. The food at Porto Bay Serra Golf hotel was superb and the village was buzzing with life as we were there on a Sunday. The optional walk on this day (day 4) was very different as we chose to go out to the peninsula. A challenging 7.5km with lots of ups and downs but well worth the effort, just take lots of water and suncream as there is no shade. However, there is a cafe where you can buy food at the start or finish of the final climb if you don’t have a picnic. The hotel will help and advise about transport options. The final day heading into Funchal came all too soon, the last of the Levadas, but Castanheiro hotel was just another lovely oasis of calm in which to end the day. Whilst we knew Madeira was mountainous we had no idea how rugged but lush it would be. Views along the way were stunning and we were constantly pleased by the flowers and full of admiration for the feats of engineering that are the Levadas. You certainly need a head for heights but at no time did any of the routes feel unsafe. Thanks Inntravel for another brilliant and well organised holiday.

We have been on about 20 Inntravel holidays now and as always this one was excellent. The walking by the mountain levadas was breathtaking at times. Completely unique, like walking through the tree tops. The holiday was varied and interesting. We loved it.

We loved the walk from Sao Roque de Faial along the Levada Castelejo. Walking through the allotments with their lovely variety of fruit and veg and the lush woodland, it was a varied and beautiful walk, even in the pouring rain! The walk from Porto da Cruz to Santo de Serra was also beautiful but busier in some sections. We can thoroughly recommend the optional walk to the Sao Lourenço Peninsula as this is such a contrast to the rest of the holiday. We did this instead of the day 5 route and caught a bus to Funchal at the end of the walk. Don’t be deceived by the fact that it is a relatively short walk - it is quite strenuous in the heat and there is no shade on this part of the island. We loved the fact that all except one of the hotels had a swimming pool where we could relax after a days walking. We’re not big swimmers but a warm pool is very good therapy for tired legs!

We had a lovely holiday and all went very smoothly. The hotels were very good and the transfers worked seamlessl

We never got lost. All directions and routes were great. You prepared us well.

As ever an excellent overall experience. The Hotel in Funchal was of a particularly high standard and would recommend.

Another very enjoyable Inntravel walking holiday (our 6th, I think). The weather wasn’t quite as good as we’d hoped, but it didn’t detract from the overall experience. The organisation and attention to detail were up to Inntravel’s high standard, as usual.

We loved this holiday. The hotels were excellent, the taxi transfers efficient, it was wonderful to have it all so well organised for us but to still feel that we could make some choices of our own.

The walking guides were comfortably detailed and accurate and the chosen walks very enjoyable. The food included (HB) at Porto Bay Serra Golf Hotel was just superb. 

The walk to the Sao Lourenco Peninsula was a lovely walk, a change from the lavadas and finished off with a swim in the sea but be careful as the sea can have quite a swell and could be dangerous. Take plenty of water because the bars seem to be at the end of the walks.

Highlights: Experiencing the precipitous mountains of Madeira in a relatively safe way by walking along the levadas, some of them ancient; Walking through beautiful and varied forests inhabited by chaffinches, robins and firecrests; Eating enormous prawns and fresh red snapper and drinking Ponchas in Porto Santa Cruz with in earshot of the waves; Catching the cable car in Funchal and seeing it spread out below us on the mountain.

Caldeirao Verde walk was beautiful but very popular with groups. Recommend an early start to enjoy a more peaceful walk. Definitely need a torch for the tunnels and watch your head! Downhill section to Illha was steeper than expected. Our favourite walk was from San Roque to Porto da Cruz along the Levada Castelejo with great variety of terrain, gorgeous scent of eucalyptus and a peaceful walk. Ribeiro Frio to Santo da Serra via the Levada Furado was a very memorable path with a fantastic display of wild flowers and lucky to see several Madeiran Firecrests up close. Definitely aim for an early start as this is a very popular walk for groups. Santo da Serra to Monte had many beautiful flowers especially beside the Levada dos Tornos. May is a great month to visit Madeira as we had perfect weather for walking and very little rainfall. 

This was a great holiday, which we really enjoyed. A lovely island with helpful people, who didn't give us a chance to try out our phrasebook Portuguese, but spoke their excellent English to us. The walking was just right for us.

Enjoyed the optional walks from Santa Serra - did the Levada de Tornos route. Very little water in the waterfall, didn't get wet! And the visit to the Sau Lourenco peninsula was great, dramatic scenery, perfect weather. Loved Madeira, stayed a second week with a hire car, so we enjoyed the coast and mountains as well as the levada walking. The driving is not for the faint hearted! It was a great holiday.

Madeira is a relaxed island with hospitable people. The hotels and food are very good. Eating out in Funchal is easy. Easy walking along the levadas - you hardly need to refer to the route notes - with a great variety of views and landscapes. However although most of the walking is level or down, it is mainly on hard surfaces and steps - so better to use walking poles and wear boots rather than trail shoes. 

We had an excellent, very peaceful and relaxing holiday, in spite of wet weather. The walking was very pleasant, the vegetation beautiful and the scenery often stunning. Everyone we met in hotels, shops and cafés was welcoming and friendly. We would like to thank Inntravel for being so helpful and efficient and for making this memorable experience possible. 

We enjoyed observing the flora and fauna along the route, both recognising plants and animals that were familiar to us as well as admiring the many that were new.

The walking holiday in Madeira has been outstanding. We could have had a bit more sunshine, but everything Inntravel had arranged went really well. The walks combined with the luggage transfer to hotels was a great way to discover Madeira. We are already looking for the next trip.

Getting the bus from Santo da Serra to Baia D'Abra is dead easy and only 4 euros 20 cents return. The house at the end of this walk is now a nice cafe. (Taxis would have cost 70 euros return) 

Overall we had an excellent trip and were very impressed with the beauty of Madeira and the selected hotels, especially the last two. The level of organization on the part of Inntravel was top notch.

This was such an enjoyable holiday with great walking and very good hotels. Would recommend the food in the Costa Linda hotel as A Pipa was closed on the Monday we were there - fantastic setting to be able to eat by the sea to the sound of crashing waves. Loved listening to the waves from the room too. The food at the Porto Bay Serra Golf Hotel was extremely good with an especially large choice for vegetarians. Really enjoyed the day in Funchal and managed to get in a whale watching trip after the morning’s circular walk around the town. Excellent choice of restaurants there including one just down from the hotel near the fort which served fresh sushi/sashimi (look at the back of the menu). Absolute highlight for us was the final day’s walk in the mountains near the Quinta da Serra hotel. We weren’t able to do the usual Into the Mountains walk due to forest fires so did an alternative suggested by Inntravel along PR12 which had spectacular views. First trip to Madeira and would love to come back one day.

We are loyal Inntravel customers, and so we expected a lot from our Madeira vacation. Yet the trip still exceeded our expectations. The island is enchanting, the flowers are omnipresent, the sea is always visible, and the hiking is varied, beautiful and rewarding. The hotels and meals are outstanding. We were sad to leave at the end of the week, and the memories will make us smile for years to come.

Our Classic Madeira walking holiday was so enjoyable.  A great mix of fantastic walks, beautiful scenery, gorgeous hotels and delicious food.  The Porto Bay Serra Golf Hotel in particular stood out for us as being a beautiful hotel with welcoming staff and fanastic food at breakfast and dinner time.  The Costa Linda hotel was in a stunning setting and the sound of waves crashing against the coastline from our balcony was very relaxing.  The reception staff there were particularly friendly and helpful.  The Quinta De Serra was a stunning hotel to finish with and their large pool was great to swim a few lengths in after a day of walking.  Thanks very much also to Inntravel for being so diligent in getting in touch with us during the holiday to make us aware of a small forest fire which affected our walking for the following day and for providing such clear information on the alternative plan.

the flowers were wonderful and much better than expected.

The peninsula walk was superb.

The botanical garden needs a good two hours - flowers wonderful! We used the wicker toboggan down from Monte which was excellent and to be recommended. We walked from the end of that slowly back to the hotel but the taxi drivers were prepared to haggle - their price came down from 20 euros to just 10! Can easily spend 2 days in Funchal.

We added a little to our experience on the last day by getting a taxi from Cabo Girao (15 euros) to Camara de Lobos and spent the afternoon there. It is a quaint village and we swam off the jetty - much easier than attempting the surf on the beach! Bus back at less than 2 euros each. (Bus timetable supplied by hotel).

Recommend making picnics from breakfast buffets as some picnics were disappointing, like heavy glass containers and basic sandwiches.

Fantastic holday. Great hotels, food. Very friendly and helpful locals especially the taxi drivers. Great walking. Weather very misty at times. Get out and discover the island that is beyond Funchal or you will miss all its beauty and charm.

It is hard to explain, without gushing, just how wonderful Madeira is and how well planned this trip has been. As Americans, we did not want to fly such a long distance for just  a week on the island, so we first spent some time in mainland Portugal, then flew to Madeira, where we had booked 3 additional nights. I recommend this for anyone who thinks they will only be able to go to Madeira once. There is plenty to do. An extra night in Porto da Cruz enabled us to walk the Levada Castelejo which was spectacular. In Santo da Serra we opted for the Peninsula walk, which was well worth the expensive taxi ride. Luckily we were able to share a taxi with another couple. The drivers the hotel calls are very reliable about being there for the return trip.

In Funchal we liked the restaurant O Tasco so much we went back for a second night. Their fish seems fresher and better prepared than most. We also ate twice at the Taverna Madeira. In both these restaurants the staff recognized us and welcomed us back the second time. The Botanical Garders were a highlight and we needed the rest after the walking we had been doing. I love riding cable cars, but if you don't, you can probably save time by taking a taxi to the Botanical Gardens. The Tropical Gardens are probably also good, but not as well known.

The next day we did something we had wanted from the beginning of our planning--the walk from Pico do Arreiero to Pico Ruivo. This has been called the most beautiful walk on Madeira, and I believe it is one of the most spectacular one day walks in the world. We chose to do it as a guided walk, not that anyone needs a guide, as it is so crowded the route is obvous, except maybe at the end. But the group guided walk probably costs less than arranging the taxis, as it is a one way hike, with the pickup point a long drive from the dropoff. After seeing the video on UTube, I was a little worried about the exposure, but it is well protected everywhere. The only problem is the total 3000 feet of elevation gain, and the steep steps, which can be hard on the knees. The guide never pressures you to walk fast. For our other extra day in Funchal, we were too tired for another serious walk, so did a bus tour of the Western side of the island. Good, but nothing like walking. It was so much more satisfying later to walk to Cabo Girao, than it was to arrive there on one of 30 tour busses. It made us appreciate how lucky we are to be able to walk around the island, staying in charming small accomodations, compared to the people who stay in the big Pestana-type hotels and have to depend on busses every day.

Finally, finishing off with the Levada do Norte was another highlight. We enjoyed the luxury of the Quinta da Serra, especially, feeling a litle tired of Portuguese food, their French cuisine. Everything went smoothly, and we are wondering what walk next year can possibly be this good.

This was our second visit to Madeira but our first walking holiday there and first experience of Inntravel. I would thoroughly recommend them as a company and Madeira as a destination. The quality of the walks was very good with just the right amount of challenge for us as walking novices in our early 50's. The accomodation was of excellent quality throughout (with the exception of the meals at one hotel) and the transfers seamlessly efficient. The decision to make the hotel stay in Funchal B&B only was spot on as there are a large number of good to excellent places to eat close by. Our recommendation would be Cris's Downtown - this is Michelin Star quality food at an insanely reasonable price with excellent atmosphere and service. Do yourself a favour when in Funchal and eat here - you won't regret it!

Our trip  to Madeira in May was thoroughly enjoyable. The weather however was very varied, it being quite cold and wet for the first half and then beautifully warm and sunny in the second half of our holiday - it's a good idea to have suitable clothes for all eventualities! We enjoyed the walks which were varied and often featured spectacular views. The walk notes were good on the whole with the only exception being the walk back to the hotel from Mount Terreiros when the path soon became non-existent and involved a scramble to a safe path. The accommodation was good and the evening meals provided were excellent. 

It is hard to pick just one highlight on this holiday; the trip included varied terrain from walking in forests to through tiny villages and their agriculture.  There was always something new to see from magnificient views to prehistoric glades.  The walk notes were excellent and all the hotels were expecting us and knew exactly what information we needed.  Angelo Gomes, the taxi driver, was fantastic, very informative and helpful.  

Highlights for us were a section of the walk from Santo da Serra to Marocos via Portela where you take a narrow path through the forest and which was very beautiful, with ernormous tree ferns, and peaceful.  Another day walking from Santo da Serra to Camacha via Levada da Serra do Faial, after about 2 hours, there is a particularly lovely section with waterfalls and picturesque bridges perfect for picnicing on.  The most demanding walk was Funchal to Jardim da Serra which left you with a sense of achievement and afforded some amazing views of the valley.  

This is the first time we have used Inntravel and the our first visit to Madeira, we were very impressed with both!

My sister and I had a lovely holiday with excellent and quite varied walks, allowing us to experience the variety of landscapes around Maderia. The flowers and scenery are stunning, also potatoes and cabbages are planted everywhere! Levada walking is easy so it was good to have the challenge of walking out of the Nun's Valley even though our view was obliterated by cloud. It was well worth visiting the Botanic Gardens and Monte Palace Gardens while in Funchal also the Toboggan ride is great fun. The cable car is well worth it for the views. Standing on the cliffs at Cabo Girao was exhilerating and the walk there interesting.

We felt that overall this was an excellent holiday. Our first hotel (on Tenerife) was not up to our expectation, but as we were unable to land on Madeira due to wind, it was OK. The Hotel Serra Golf made up for the disappointment of missing our first day’s walk. We enjoyed this hotel the most. The walk around the area and our onward walk were excellent. Our stay in Funchal was good, apart from problems with the lighting. The recommended restaurant, Tabernacle Madeira, was great. We advise booking. We also enjoyed O Tascos (not Tesco’s!). Just turn right out of the hotel. The walk out of Funchal was lovely, and not as hard as we expected. The walk to the coast the following day was good fun. This was a great introduction to Madeira in spite of not being able to land on the first day. Well done Inntravel!

Really varied week - contoured Levada walks, mountains and a range of madeiras! Some great hotels - friendly people and good food - try the Scabbard fish with bananas!

We loved the choice of hotels particularly the one near the port in Funchal (Quinta Bela Sao Tiago). Excellent instructions at every stage. Most impressed.

INNTRAVEL NOTE: Mrs Morley combined our Landscapes of Western Madeira with Classic Madeira

This was an outstanding trip. The levadas are amazing and the views are stunning. The walking notes were excellent with everything that we needed to have a great trip. Funchal was a really friendly city with a fascinating history, the cultural notes meant that we could really appreciate it. We also took advantage of a stopover in Porto which was really well set up with comprehensive notes and a great hotel.

The holiday offered an ideal way to see a very beautiful island through a number of varied walks. We found the islanders to be very welcoming and our lack of any Portuguese was never an issue. A particular highlight was the walk up out of the Nun's valley, but it was all very good. The island offers some excellent food, especially for fish lovers, at reasonable prices. This was the first time we have used Inntravel and we are impressed at the considerable care obvious in all arrangements. In Funchal we ate at the suggested Taberna Madeira twice, they are closed on Sundays and they suggested O' Tasco (a short distance up the hill from the hotel) where the food and service was also excellent. We suggest you book at either of these as they get very busy. Both are away from the bustle and heckling of the main Funchal restaurant roads and well worth finding.

We loved the additional walk from Porto da Cruz - it was it was one not to miss. Lovely hotels and amazing scenery, lots of variety with the Funchal experience. We added three extra days, one at each of the first three locations which was great, we got the most out of each place.

INNTRAVEL NOTE: Our additional walk from Porto da Cruz is ideal for customers booking an extra night here.