A short break in Liguria

The Hotel Continental was an ideal location for our stay in Genoa. We were able to explore the city easily on foot. We especially enjoyed riding the funiculars and public lifts which helped us to get about the challenging terrain of the city. We recommend HB's food shop, just down from the hotel on Via Balbi, for delicious focaccia and their cafe nextdoor for a quick light bite and choices of gelato! The hotel is just across from the railway station from which we caught our train to Camogli. We enjoyed a peaceful stay in Camogli at the Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi, a contrast after the bustling city of Genoa. Walking on the Portofino Peninsula was lovely. We were fortunate to have beautiful weather in our days in Camogli. We can recommend the Panificio in San Rocco. Their focaccia is freshly prepared each day which we stowed away in our rucksacks, still warm, for our lunch each day. We enjoyed returning to our hotel in Camogli each day to relax over a pot of tea on the terrace and to absorb the stunning view of the Ligurian Riviera. 

I've left this a little too long since we had to immediately delve back into fall planting and olive harvesting on our farm after taking October off!  We just want to say that you are the best thing that ever happened to us and we're currently debating where we want to go next.

The walking routes selected were excellent. We particularly enjoyed the routes from Manarola to Corniglia and from Monterosso to Portovenere via Riomaggiore, which, whilst of differing lengths, both have spectacular views. The rocky path from Campiglia down to Portovenere was exhilirating. In early September, it is generally a stiff, hot climb from the Cinque Terre villages to the higher paths, but well worth it when you get to the top, as the villages and lower paths are overrun with tourists, particularly cruise parties as mentioned previously.

The Restaurant Belvedere in Monterosso on Piazza Garibaldi, recommended by the hotel, was good value and good quality. In Genoa we liked Vegia Zena (Vico del Serriglio, just behind the Porto Antico), La Forchette Curiosa (mentioned in City tour walking notes) and Trattoria Il Grillo Parlante ( Via San Bernardino, again just behind Porto Antico) The latter restaurant we passed at lunchtime, when it was packed with local workers on their lunch hour. We went back in the evening, when it was quieter, but just the type of place you want to find: off the tourist track, frequented by locals, a limited menu, dirt cheap (2 courses for Euro 15 including water) but importantly great quality, freshly cooked food.

INNTRAVEL NOTE: These customers combined our Genova & the Portofino Peninsula city break and walk, with our Cinque Terre walking break.

Only 4 days but it felt like more with so much to see in Genoa and the contrast of Camogli and Portofino. Genoa turned out to be an excellent city to explore; we visited a number of palazzi, bursting with art, history and wonderful decor but we also really enjoyed strolling around the city, trying out the lifts up to the higher streets (it's a steep city), wandering around the Porto Antico in the early evening and sampling the endless varieties of Focaccia available everywhere. We were there in October in warm sunny weather and didn't feel that there noticeable numbers of visitors/tourists, just the Genoese going about their daily lives. The Hotel Continental proved to be a very satisfactory place to stay, very handy for the shuttle bus to/from the airport and near to plenty of places to eat (the Tralalera attached to the hotel is worth trying) as well as the centro storico.

Camogli was quite a change from the city - plenty of people enjoying the seafront with its cafes and restaurants but not overcrowded in this season at least. It's a place to stroll along or relax in the sun at a cafe by the sea (they bring you generous platters of mini sandwiches, pizza squares, olives, etc as well as crisps and nuts with your drinks. That's reflected in the price but you could almost manage without dinner!) The walk to Portofino begins with a 45 minute climb up steps to San Rocco - be warned! - but that's the hard part. For the rest of the way, you are largely in woodland until you emerge above Portofino. If you're planning to return by boat, make sure it's running when you get there. It was cancelled on the day we walked there but fortunately there is a bus service (with a change at Santa Margherita Ligure) which affords you pretty views on the journey back to Camogli. The hotel Cenobio dei Dogi is a lovely place to stay with light airy rooms, attractively presented public spaces, a pool overlooking the bay and a restaurant with the same view, not a bad vista with breakfast! We had a smallish but very adequate and comfortable room on the third floor with a little balcony so had a sea view (if you stand up!). Worth asking for a sea view in a location like this.

We'd thoroughly recommend this break for all that it offers in a short space of time but we'd also recommend Spring or Autumn to avoid the worst of the heat. We also think we'd like to return!