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Life in an Alpujarran Village (without a car)

Las Alpujarras – a land steeped in tradition
Charming Casa Las Chimeneas is a great base for a week’s self-guided walking, with several routes direct from the door and others a short drive away (transfers included). It’s also a place where you can gain insights into local ways of life, and savour dinners of delicious regional cuisine.
Life in an Alpujarran Village (without a car). 7 nights
Life in an Alpujarran Village (without a car). 7 nights

Holiday information


Culture & walking in Las Alpujarras

On the southern slopes of the towering Sierra Nevada, mainland Spain’s tallest mountain range, nestle Las Alpujarras. Characterised by terraced valleys, almond groves, and villages of whitewashed houses with distinctive tall chimneys, this is a deeply traditional area seemingly untouched by the passage of time – ancient irrigation systems built by the Moors exist to this day. Here, you’ll find Mairena, the base for this holiday, where the traditional patterns of life echo the seasons. Figs, medlars and pomegranates are harvested in autumn, followed in December and January by olives, which are still gathered as they have been for centuries – by hitting the branches with a stick. February is marked by the appearance of delicate blossom on the almond trees, while March is associated with the heady scent of sweet, young oranges.
Thanks to your knowledgeable hosts, Emma and David Illsley, you can immerse yourself into the gentle rhythms of southern Spain, joining David on a guided tour through the fruit trees of their nearby organic farm (finca); meeting Adolfo, the local olive-oil producer, to learn how oil is extracted from the fruit; and watching Soledad, the hotel cook, recreate traditional regional dishes. Travel in December or January, and you can even help with the olive harvest, if you so wish. Combine these cultural insights with scenic, varied walks along trails that have linked the villages for centuries, and you will feel as though you’ve really explored under the skin of this beguiling region.

Walking & more

The key to Inntravel holidays is flexibility. You can start on the day of your choice, and are free to add extra nights. There’s no fixed itinerary, so take your pick of our suggested walking routes as the mood takes you.
  • The average maximum daytime temperatures and monthly rainfall relate to the nearest weather station and are intended as a guide only.
    Average temperatures and rainfall
      Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
    °C 11 12 15 17 22 27 32 32 28 21 15 11
    mm 53 55 47 52 37 26 10 7 20 51 64 61
  • Learn about life in Las Alpujarras
    This holiday combines unique insights into local ways of life with some superb walks so as to give you a real feel for Las Alpujarras. Your enthusiastic hosts, Emma and David Illsley, will be only too happy to share their knowledge of their adopted village and its traditional practices with you, and to introduce you to some of their neighbours. To get your bearings, David will take you on an introductory tour of their small finca and the village, explaining the intricacies of the complex Moorish irrigation system which still waters the terraces as you make your way to the local olive mill. Here, Adolfo, who has supplied a renowned restaurant kitchen in London, will explain the processes involved in extracting the oil from this prized fruit. In December and January, you can join in with the harvest if you so wish, enjoying the buzz that animates the immaculate groves as you knock the branches with a sturdy stick to dislodge the stubborn fruit. Another insight into village customs comes in the form of local cook Sole. Her family has lived in Las Alpujarras for generations, and she lovingly recreates age-old local recipes with a delicious modern twist. For anyone with an interest in wine, David and Emma can arrange a tour of the award-winning Buena Vista bodega in Ugijar, complete with a wine-tasting
    Making migas

    Sustainable tourism at the finca

    David and Emma care deeply about the long-term sustainability of the Alpujarras region and a week with them will give you a real insight into some of their ongoing projects on their organic finca. From its inception, the finca was always going to be a place where traditional farming methods would be used to enhance and improve the land, creating a restful haven where the fruits of the fields could be harvested for the hotel and restaurant. Central to this idea – and still as important today – has been learning from the locals and working in tune with nature and the seasons. With this uppermost in their minds, David and Emma have always been quick to seek – and accept – help and advice from local farmers who showed them how to irrigate, plough, prune and tend the land in the age-old traditions of the village.

    Organic farming

    The finca has been granted official ‘organic’ status by the Soil Association, based on farming methods and a complete absence of herbicides and pesticides, thus recognising that all their produce is as fresh, good and natural as nature intended. A welcome by-product of these methods has been the deliberate setting aside of areas of uncultivated land – as all weeds, hedgerows and grasses now have to be controlled the old fashioned way, by hand – leading to an extraordinary variety of flowers and an abundance of insects and bird-life which flourishes in this magical place.

  • An introduction
    There are several good walks from Mairena itself - we provide route notes in the detailed information pack that we send you, and David and Emma will be happy to make further suggestions. To ring the changes, and extend your range, we include three transfers so that you can enjoy some walks slightly further afield, to the east and west of Mairena.
  • Choice of routes: 3km to 15km

    A stroll in the Mairena Valley (grade 1): 3km, 1hr; ascent/descent 150m
    Taking in David and Emma’s finca, this is a great introductory circuit around the terraced slopes south of the village. It’s a walk that David and Emma often accompany you on, showing you the tended gardens of the villagers and passing the rocky outcrop known as the Peñón de Alfaguara, from where there are spectacular views of the landscape and of the village.

    Down to Ugíjar (grade 1): 6km, 1.5hrs; ascent 60m/descent 545m
    A great way to visit the market town of Ugíjar, perhaps in time to visit the local market and linger over a leisurely lunch. The way weaves down along the river valley, through some of the oldest olive groves in the area, passing alongside the steeply eroded, coloured marls and clays and into the well-watered almond terraces that fill the pretty valley just before Ugíjar. Return by taxi (pay locally).

    A short circuit above Mairena via Júbar (grade 1): 6km, 2.5hrs; ascent/descent 355m
    This walk starts with a steepish climb but soon descends to the small village of Júbar, following one of the many water channels built to irrigate the lower slopes of the Alpujarras. It then follows a pretty path back to Mairena.

    Longer circuit above Mairena (grade 2): 9.5km, 4hrs; ascent/descent 530m
    David and Emma refer to this as the ‘On Top of the World Walk’ as it climbs up high on the northern slopes above the village, passing ancient, abandoned water cisterns and threshing floors. With views of Laroles on the other side of a valley you wind down through chestnut groves to the hamlet of Júbar before a stroll back to Mairena.

    The old silk village of Válor (grade 2): 12.5km, 4hrs; ascent/descent 655m
    This is a delightful walk which leads to the old silk weaving town of Válor, passing through terraced slopes, and then descending to the Rio Nechite, crossing the river by stepping stones, before finally reaching Válor where there are several restaurants for lunch.

    A circuit from Mairena via Laroles: 9km, 3.5hrs (grade 1-2) or 15km, 5.5hrs (grade 2); ascent/descent 820m
    This lovely circuit joins the two villages of Júbar and Laroles, taking you up the Laroles river valley on the western side and down on the eastern. On the way, you use a lovely path alongside a water channel, pass a thousand-year-old chestnut tree and drop down to the stream on an old mule path.
  • Choice of routes: 4km to 15.5km

    The walk of the Fountain of Health (grade 1): 4.5km, 2hrs; ascent/descent 240m
    A very pleasant short walk into the hills to the northern side of Yegen, following an ancient cobbled track past springs in the hills, hence its name.

    The Gerald Brenan circuit (grade 1-2): 4km, 2hrs; ascent/descent 350m
    This walk on the southern slopes of Yegen heads down into the bad-lands, a multi-coloured lunar landscape of strangely shaped, eroded rocks. At the base of the valley sits the isolated cubic rock known as Peñon el Fuerte, the site of a now vanished Moorish castle. It is said that Gerald Brenan walked this route every afternoon.

    Río Grande – higher route (grade 2): 15.5km, 6hrs; ascent/descent 800m
    This is a scenic and rewarding walk, initially rising steeply up the east side of the valley, then following pretty paths contouring the valley in and out of woodland. You pass over the Río Grande at the head of the valley before returning on paths to pass an ancient silk-mill.

    Río Grande – lower route (grade 1-2): 11km, 4hrs; ascent/descent 400m
    An easier way to explore the valley of the Río Grande and reach the ancient silk-mill.
  • Choice of routes: 3km or 9km

    Laroles – Picena circuit (grade 1-2): 9km, 3.5hrs
    An interesting circuit through various fincas of almond and olive terraces into a deep valley and then to the village of Picena, famed for its Mudéjar-style church and the ruins of the nearby Castillejo de Picena.

    The Picena gorge (grade 1): 3km, 1.5hrs
    More an experience than a walk, you combine this exploration of a pretty, verdant gorge with a trip to the village. The rock has been carved into gullies and cauldrons; while the unique fauna includes the rare nettle-tree butterfly.


Your base is Mairena, a typical Alpujarran village where mules still outnumber cars by two to one at harvest time!
Casa las Chimeneas
  • rural hotel



Options to extend or shorten your stay

Prices & travel options
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  • 7 nights: 01 September 2019 - 11 November 2019 & 16 January 2020 - 30 June 2020

    Start any day | End by latest date(s) shown above

    Starting Price Single room
    1 Sep - 14 Oct 2019 £845 £285
    15 - 31 Oct 2019 £828 £280
    1 - 4 Nov 2019 £790 £270
    16 Jan - 29 Feb 2020 £760 £265
    1 - 31 Mar 2020 £790 £270
    1 Apr - 23 Jun 2020 £815 £270
    3rd & 4th person discount -£70
    Single traveller supplement £70

    Includes accommodation, meals and services integral to the holiday as described, plus walking notes and maps, but no travel from the UK, nor any connecting travel from the airport unless stated below.

    Included travel: return coach between Malaga and Guadix and taxi transfers between Guadix bus station and the hotel. Included are three local transfers to the start/end of walks.

    Book your flights through us and we'll find the best route and times to suit you. Please contact us to find out more about our flight booking service. We can also book connecting travel - see below.

  • Extra nights (£ per person per night) in a double or single room

    Casa las Chimeneas, Mairena (with dinner) Double room Single room
    01 Sep - 11 Nov 2019 £90 £128
    16 Jan - 29 Feb 2020 £85 £121
    01 Mar - 30 Jun 2020 £90 £128
    Granada, Málaga,

    Travelling from the UK

    Travelling from outside the UK

    If you are flying from outside Europe,  we recommend Málaga. To discuss onward connecting travel to the start of your holiday, please contact us.

    Outward route Airline
    Aberdeen - Malaga Ryanair 
    Outward route Airline
    Belfast Intl. - Malaga Aer Lingus,  easyJet,  jet2,  Ryanair,  TUI 
    Outward route Airline
    Birmingham - Almeria Flybe,  jet2 
    Birmingham - Malaga Flybe,  jet2,  Norwegian,  Ryanair,  TUI,  Vueling 
    Outward route Airline
    Bournemouth - Malaga Ryanair 
    Outward route Airline
    Bristol - Malaga easyJet,  Ryanair,  TUI 
    Outward route Airline
    Cardiff - Malaga TUI,  Vueling 
    Outward route Airline
    Doncaster Sheffield - Malaga Flybe,  TUI 
    Outward route Airline
    Nottingham East Midlands - Malaga jet2,  Ryanair,  TUI 
    Outward route Airline
    Edinburgh - Almeria jet2 
    Edinburgh - Malaga jet2,  Norwegian,  Ryanair 
    Outward route Airline
    Exeter - Malaga Flybe 
    Outward route Airline
    Glasgow - Malaga easyJet,  jet2,  TUI 
    Outward route Airline
    Glasgow Prestwick - Malaga Ryanair 
    Outward route Airline
    Leeds Bradford - Malaga jet2,  Ryanair,  TUI 
    Outward route Airline
    Liverpool - Malaga easyJet 
    Outward route Airline
    London City - Granada British Airways 
    London City - Malaga British Airways 
    Outward route Airline
    Gatwick - Almeria British Airways,  easyJet,  Thomas Cook,  TUI 
    Gatwick - Almeria (via Madrid) Iberia 
    Gatwick - Granada easyJet 
    Gatwick - Malaga British Airways,  easyJet,  Norwegian,  TUI 
    Outward route Airline
    Heathrow - Almeria British Airways 
    Heathrow - Granada (via Madrid) Iberia 
    Heathrow - Malaga British Airways 
    Outward route Airline
    Luton - Malaga easyJet,  Ryanair,  TUI 
    Outward route Airline
    London Southend - Malaga easyJet 
    Outward route Airline
    Stansted - Almeria Ryanair,  Thomas Cook 
    Stansted - Malaga British Airways,  easyJet,  jet2,  Ryanair 
    Outward route Airline
    Manchester - Almeria jet2,  Ryanair,  Thomas Cook,  TUI 
    Manchester - Granada easyJet 
    Manchester - Malaga easyJet,  jet2,  Norwegian,  Ryanair,  Thomas Cook,  TUI 
    Outward route Airline
    Newcastle - Malaga easyJet,  jet2,  Ryanair,  TUI 
    Outward route Airline
    Norwich - Malaga Flybe 
    Outward route Airline
    Southampton - Malaga Flybe 
    Travelling from outside the UK

    If you are flying from outside Europe,  we recommend Málaga. To discuss onward connecting travel to the start of your holiday, please contact us.

    This list of flight options should be used as a guide only, and you should check each airline’s website for current routes, frequency and schedules. Not all flights operate daily, and may not run for the entire season. You should also heed the latest flight arrival time and earliest flight departure time stated in the connecting travel section, as it may not be possible to arrange connecting travel outside these times. Please do not book your flights until we have confirmed your accommodation to you. Alternatively, our expert reservations team will be happy to offer advice and to make flight bookings for you. We charge £30 per person for our flight booking service (£50 for India and Nepal). Your flights are then covered by our package-booking conditions, which give you greater protection in the event of delay or cancellation, as well as providing ATOL cover.

  • Prices below are based on 2 people travelling together. If you are travelling solo or as a party of 3 or more and our arrangements include a taxi, please contact us for prices; additional passengers often pay less.

    Connecting travel options - flying via Granada

    Outward route Price per person Latest flight
    arrival time
    coach Granada to Guadix (1h15), hotel transfer Guadix to hotel (1h30) deduct £17 1700
    Homeward route Price per person Earliest flight
    departure time
    hotel transfer hotel to Guadix (1h30), coach Guadix to Granada (1h15) deduct £17 1200

    Connecting travel options - flying via Malaga

    Outward route Price per person Latest flight
    arrival time
    coach Malaga to Guadix (2h30), hotel transfer Guadix to hotel (1h30) included 1500
    Homeward route Price per person Earliest flight
    departure time
    hotel transfer hotel to Guadix (1h30), coach Guadix to Malaga (2h30) included 1330
What is included
  • 7 nights
  • 7 dinners
    3 picnics
    7 breakfasts
  • route notes and maps
    & detailed cultural notes
  • tour of finca
    visit to olive mill
  • 3 transfers to the start of walks
  • coach travel from/to the airport

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If you have any questions relating to this or any other Inntravel holiday, our friendly travel experts will be happy to help. You might also find our General FAQs section helpful.
  • We’ll send you route notes and maps 2-3 weeks before your holiday. The route notes not only contain directions to get from hotel to hotel, but also include practical information about places of interest and eateries along each route, plus cultural information about the area. If/when you are moving between hotels, you leave your luggage in reception as you leave, and it will be transferred ahead to your next accommodation, meaning that all you need to take with you are a camera, sun cream, drinks, food and waterproofs.

    For more detailed information, see our walking holidays in Europe page.
  • We can book a wide range of airlines and routes from the UK. As well as being more convenient for you to book all elements of your holiday together, it also means that we’ll accept liability for your travel arrangements, so if things go wrong, such as the airline going bust, we’ll make suitable alternative arrangements for you. For Europe and Morocco, there’s a £30 booking fee per person (£15 for children aged 2-11). For India and Nepal, the booking fee is £50 per person. More information on flights >
  • Absolutely! We are experts in tailored rail travel. Making use of sleeper trains or stopovers in cities along the route, we can get you from London to virtually anywhere in mainland Europe. We can even make arrangements to Mallorca, Sicily and Norway with a combination of ferries and rail. Please contact Abi to discuss your plans.
  • We can’t book flights that originate outside the UK, but if you wanted book your own flights to London (or elsewhere in the UK), we can make all onward travel arrangements (including flights) from there. Alternatively, if you are booking your own flights to an airport in continental Europe that’s appropriate for your holiday, we can book onward rail travel and/or taxis. More information about how we can tailor holidays for customers outside the UK >
  • Since our holidays are self-guided, we recommend calling us for a chat about your plans before making a booking, especially if it’s the first time you’ve booked with us.
    The price panel shows the supplement for a single room and also the single traveller charge (this covers (luggage) transfers and other costs which are usually shared between two people).
  • Once you’ve decided on your exact itinerary (our travel experts will be happy to offer advice), you need to provide us with your party’s details, either by phone or via our booking form. At this point we also ask you to pay a deposit so that we can secure a room for you immediately on confirming availability with the hotel(s). If it turns out that we can’t secure the accommodation for the holiday you’ve requested, or offer an acceptable alternative, we’ll refund your deposit promptly and in full. After booking your accommodation and other key elements, we'll then book your travel (or you can do so if you’re making your own arrangements) and send you a Booking Confirmation and Invoice.
  • Yes, it’s something we insist on, even for holidays in the UK. The vast majority of holidays go smoothly, but when things go wrong, it can be expensive to put them right. Buying a new pair of walking boots after your suitcase is stolen mightn’t seem so bad, but the bill for being airlifted down from a mountain with a broken leg or flown home while still recovering from an illness or accident can cost tens of thousands of pounds.

    You don’t have to buy our policy (if you live outside Europe you’ll definitely need to make your own arrangements, as the policy is only for UK and EU residents), but you do need to make sure that you’re covered for medical emergencies and repatriation. We also recommend that you are covered for other eventualities, such as cancellation and loss of luggage and passports.
  • It is your responsibility to ensure you are in possession of the correct travel documents, with the correct validity. If you’re a UK citizen, you need a full British passport to travel to Spain, but not a visa (if you are travelling after 31 October 2019, see the Brexit question below for more information). If you are a citizen of another country, you’ll need to check requirements with the national embassy or your own consulate.

    Current information regarding vaccinations and travel health advice can be found through the following NHS link: You must make sure you have adequate insurance cover for illness, accidents and repatriation (see the insurance question). UK citizens should also obtain a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) by applying at a Post Office or at The EHIC allows reciprocal health care but should not be seen as a substitute for travel insurance. EHICs may cease to be valid in the event of a no-deal Brexit.
  • (Castilian) Spanish is one of several official languages; in Catalonia, for example, Catalan has equal status. The currency is the Euro. Spanish time is GMT/UTC + 1. It uses Daylight Saving Time, so in summer is on BST + 1.
  • Even in the event of a no-deal Brexit, it’s been confirmed that flights will continue as normal and that you won’t need a visa to go on holiday (the limit on stays is 90 days). What you will need if there’s no deal is a passport that is valid for at least 6 months beyond the date of your arrival (extra months added because you renewed your passport early do not count) and adequate travel insurance to cover you for accidents and illness in case reciprocal health deals are suspended. If you are driving while on holiday, you will probably need an International Driving Permit (plus a Green Card if you are taking your own car to Europe). More information >
  • The UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) provides up-to-date, country-by-country travel advice, as well as information on security, local laws, passports and visas for UK citizens.
    If you live outside the UK, see our essential travel information page for a list of relevant websites.
Last fetch time is : 9/21/2019 5:40:10 PM