As fate would have it, a German airport strike led our first leg of the journey to the Swiss city of Zürich. And after the initial “what on earth do we do?” when hearing about the strike planned that day, our journey to Pertisau was set to be even longer. Instead of arriving around lunchtime, we’d now be arriving early evening.
From Zürich (where we manage a whistlestop tour of the city plus a delicious coffee and chocolate cake) we board the train heading east. After a somewhat chaotic morning of an early-morning airport dash, it’s a relief to sit back, open my pretzel bag, and watch as the train gathers speed.
From my seat, I’m mesmerised. We pass along the shores of Lake Zürich, which soon gives way to impressive snowcapped mountains and hut-laden valleys beneath. It’s quintessential Swiss scenery and I’m so pleased we got to see it. Our train journey takes around four-and-a-half hours, crossing through Liechtenstein in a matter of ten minutes, before we head into Austria towards Innsbruck, all the while not having stopped to do anything other than gaze lazily out of the window.
From Innsbruck it’s an easy switch to a regional train towards Jenbach, taking just half an hour to reach the heart of the Tyrolean mountains where our destination is a tiny bit further – Lake Achensee and Pertisau.
A warm Tyrolean welcome
It’s early March and the snow has already melted after a week of glorious sunshine the week before, but as we drive up to the doors of Hotel Wiesenhof, the magic of the Austrian Tyrol comes to life.
We walk inside and there’s a roaring fire, lights glowing against the light-wood panelling and furniture, and a warm welcome from Madeleine and Johannes who are part of the family who run the hotel. We’re allocated the renovated Rotkehlchen (robin) room, an expansive suite with a balcony overlooking the mountains in the distance. Standing outside you can hear the birds singing as the day gives way to night and it’s hard to imagine anywhere as peaceful. There’s not a soul to be seen (we’re visiting at the end of their winter season), and I take a deep breath of fresh mountain air and begin to take it all in.
Inside the hotel room, I start noticing smaller details: a bird box, a robin, the colour of the wood. They’ve designed the rooms with nature in mind and where the calming effect continues from the outside. A well-placed chair by the doors allows you to sit and gaze out at the mountains – the ones we’ll be conquering the next day.
But first, a four-course meal is in order, which after a day of travel is truly welcome. To begin there’s soup or salad, followed by a starter, main course, and dessert, and after filling our bellies, a few of us head out on an evening stroll to stretch our legs.
There’s still no one around. Looking up at the sky, it’s a clear night and the stars are out in force – and it’s hard not to just stand and take it all in. There aren’t many moments in day-to-day life where you truly stop and appreciate your surroundings, but the Austrian Tyrol’s awe almost commands you to do just this. Nothing else is greater than the nature around.
The next day I wake early before breakfast is served, so I decide to head outside and see Pertisau in daylight. It’s a cold, frost-bitten morning, but the morning mist is still hanging over the lake, which is so calm it’s like mirror-glaze reflecting the mountains around it. I get closer and the water’s crystal clear too, so again, I simply enjoy the moment. At last, I encounter a dog-walker who’s also taking pictures of the lake in the morning light.
Then it’s back to the warmth of the hotel where breakfast is ready. Freshly baked breads, eggs, fresh smoothies and juices, local cheeses and charcuterie, homemade cakes, and omelettes or waffles to order, it’s just what we need to set us up for a day of snowshoeing.
To the mountains we go
We meet our guide at the ski school just a five-minute walk up the street from the hotel. Once we’re kitted out with snowshoes and poles, we take the cable car to the top, watching the lake get smaller and smaller beneath our feet. From here, we spend the next two hours exploring snowy woodland paths – and as someone who’s never done any winter sports before, much to my surprise I enjoy how effortless it is to step through snow that’s several inches deep and grip on ice that would otherwise send you horizontal. We look out for signs of wildlife, and Valentijn, our guide, shows us a few different paths, which he’s selected to keep us in areas with good snow cover.
Back at the hotel, we’re invited to dry our shoes in the drying rooms and look around the hotel. I get my first glimpse of the spa and make a mental note to return later. But first, we’re on the hunt for lunch – and in true Tyrolean style we head to a mountain hut some 2,600m above sea level.
It’s all wood – the building, the furniture – and the sun has started shining so you see walkers recuperating with a warming, hearty lunch facing out towards the valley. And hearty it is. We have it on good authority Kaspressknödel (Tyrolean cheese dumpling) is the hut’s speciality, so it’s that all round, and we eat in amiable, food-induced silence before planning our descent down to Pertisau. First, though, we’re obliged to round off our feast with Kaiserschmarrn (torn pancakes with plum and apple compotes), something I absolutely don’t regret.
We’ve earned it…
Our walk back takes us zigzagging down the mountain, past the first flurry of spring wildflowers and valley views, where once back at the hotel, I make a beeline for the sauna. The entire spa area has been renovated, and includes a herb steam room, outside panoramic sauna pod and wooden sauna cabin, foot baths, relaxation rooms with heated beds and full-length windows to bask in the views… there’s even a small stand to put your glasses on (a small detail I’m very happy to see).
The heat and steam help ease tired legs, then it’s on to the pool, which can incredibly be made shallower and deeper to allow this calming, window-enveloped space to become an area for gatherings. In summer they open all the doors, which I think must be glorious on sunny days.
Johannes tells us their plan for the near future includes removing the car park at the front of the hotel so that you’re completely surrounded by greenery as well as updating the outdoor saunas. It’s clear they’re passionate about making the hotel the best it can be for their guests and surrounding nature. I ask him his favourite time of the year here. He smiles broadly and quickly says: “June, without doubt – it’s uncrowded, the fields are green and filled with flowers, you can go hiking in the mountains...”.
And with that, I make another note to myself: to return another time of year, when the days are longer, and the first whispers of summer promise an entirely different Tyrolean experience.