Walking in the UK with Peter

The walking routes are all based around Fort Augustus or accessed by bus, which leaves from outside the hotel. Some involve a short, initial ascent to reach wide, airy, forest tracks that follow the contours above the loch, or through dense woodland which delights with the surprising variety of trees. Others reach spectacular waterfalls in secluded chasms and trace the routes of historic roads over ancient bridges, or drop down to the incredibly engineered Caledonian Canal and follow it back to Fort Augustus where it descends in a dramatic series of locks to Loch Ness. There is a nice contrast between walking through the forests on delightful paths carpeted in pine needles, to watching the boats go by along the canal, and looking for red deer and golden eagles along quiet upland river valleys that lead down from the hills above.

Cornwall is indeed very different from the Scottish Highlands in almost every aspect – not just the culture and history and accents, but also the landscapes, flora and fauna, and the walking routes. Funnily enough, the walking was slightly more arduous along the South- West Coast Path than it was along the shores of Loch Ness. Cornwall is a rugged county, and following the coast path takes you down into, and then back out of, small fishing villages, sometimes quite steeply, but always rewarding with pretty bays or far-reaching views. The landscapes are far gentler, too – inland, green meadows with dairy cattle quietly grazing around immense forts from the Napoleonic era, give way to rough scrub on the clifftops while brilliant sunlight sparkles on the ever-changing sea. Looking back, I found that Cornwall’s Forgotten Corner never felt really remote, unlike on the hills around Loch Ness where it was much easier to get off the beaten track and away from people.

Again, two very contrasting coastlines, but both with their own endearing charm and walking highlights. As already alluded to, the coast of Cornwall is rugged, with high craggy cliffs interspersed with small bays and pretty fishing villages, while Northumberland is famed for its long sandy beaches and grass- covered dunes over which imposing medieval castles stand guard. In Northumberland, the walking is generally very flat – much of it at, or just above, sea level – while the Cornish routes take you up and down several times a day, though never too far or too steeply and always on safe, well-maintained, and well-signposted paths. One thing they share is that they both now form part of the official King Charles III England Coast Path.

In my opinion, this is one of the best long-distance trails in the UK, taking you from the centre of Wallsend on the bustling River Tyne to the tranquil hamlet of Bowness on the Solway Firth. As a National Trail it is very well-signposted, though for much of the route you need only follow the extant remains of the Wall itself, which has stood here since AD122 – though admittedly with extensive restoration by antiquarian John Clayton in the 1830s.

Inntravel has two versions of the holiday, which follow the Wall in the direction it was built, east to west. One follows the full Hadrian’s Wall Path from the fort at Segedunum (Wallsend) to the fort at Maia (the second largest on the entire length) where Bowness-on-Solway stands today. The other covers the central section, where the most fascinating and extensive remains still stand, and takes in all the ‘highlights’ of the Wall, including Housesteads, Chesters and Birdoswald forts, and Sycamore Gap, where the famous tree once stood.

The most pleasant surprise on the Isle of Man came when I ventured away from the towns and into the countryside and along the coastal path. One day I took the electric tram north to Baldrine and then walked back via quiet country lanes, leafy woodland, picturesque bays, and the secluded St Adamnan’s Chapel. Another day I took the steam train south to Castletown and walked from the medieval castle on the harbour out to the wild, windswept Langness headland where seals sheltered in rocky inlets and the ancient Herring Tower watched over the ghosts of the long-gone fishing fleet. The scenery mimics that of the UK – some rugged coastal sections reminded me of the west coast of Scotland, while other areas could easily have been uprooted from the Home Counties. It seemed familiar, yet wasn’t…

It may be a cliché, but my favourite walk often tends to be the one I’ve just done. Having said that, there are always those that I remember very fondly and would happily walk again if the opportunity ever arose. We live in a country blessed with beautiful and varied landscapes, each of which has something different, yet equally beguiling and inviting.

Hadrian’s Wall offers non-stop historic interest as you follow this world-renowned Roman monument from one end to the other, and there’s a great sense of achievement on reaching the end; the peace and quiet of the Manx countryside and coast came as something of a surprise for such a small island, with spectacular coastal scenery that equals anything elsewhere in the UK; the Cornish coast delights with its impossibly pretty fishing villages and secluded bays; but the biggest revelation of all came when walking through the forests of the Great Glen, surrounding Loch Ness in the Scottish Highlands, due to the sheer variety and abundance of different tree species that lined the paths and trails. This was no tedious trudge through a forestry plantation, but enchanting walks past ancient oaks, impressive conifers, stands of towering Scots pines, lines of classic Douglas fir, groves of native birch offering dappled shade from the sun, and even two giant redwood trees at the entrance to Craigmonie wood… For the trees alone, Loch Ness has just edged it…