Day 1: Around Montefiascone
12km
A lovely relaxing walk down to the shore of Lake Bolsena and then back up to Montefiascone. Although the walk down was enjoyable, the real pleasure was walking back to Montefiascone – walking among the vineyards in the great ‘bowl’ with Montefiascone perched high up above.
On to explore Montefiascone itself, the Rocca dei Papi itself and its gardens, with spectacular views, not only of where you have walked that day, but also of where you will be walking for the next few days. Standing under the dome of the Basilica di S. Margherita feels like a foretaste of standing under the great dome of St. Peter’s itself – leaving you with a real sense of anticipation for what is to come. Exploring the beautiful frescoes and carved stone capitals of the church of San Flaviano was one of the most memorable experiences.
Day 2: Montefiascone to Viterbo
18.5km
It is often hyperbole to say but on this walk you are literally walking in the footsteps of the past, in this case the ancient Via Cassia. Walking on the original cobbles, not long after leaving Montefiascone, gave me a real thrill – from reading about the old way to becoming part of its story.
Setting out early in the day left me with time in the afternoon to really explore the old town of Viterbo itself, not only the Palazzo dei Papi and cathedral around the Piazza San Lorenzo, but the narrow winding streets of the Medieval Quarter – one of the highlights of the whole holiday.
Day 3: Viterbo to Vetralla
18km
Walking through olive groves, along peaceful country roads and strade bianche that make the walking very easy going. Leaving the bustle of the main roads on the outskirts behind you are immediately walking through the ancient Vie Cave, reminiscent of walking in a great cathedral towering high above, where you can reach out and touch the grooves in the rock. One amazing surprise was walking over a small, unassuming road bridge that turned out to be a Roman bridge dating from the 2nd century.
Not long after I came across a natural spring, which pilgrims for hundreds of years have soothed their aching feet in. A final stop at the Church of Santa Maria in Forcassi (the site of an old Roman staging post – the Forum Cassii) with the most incredible 10th-century frescoes as well as a welcome stop. Volunteers were on hand to provide water, coffee, a friendly smile and that all important pilgrim stamp!
Day 4: Vetralla to Sutri
17.5km
Another day of gentle walking along strade bianche – this is a landscape where history and legend come together – the route of Charlemagne as he made his progress to Rome to be crowned the first Holy Roman Emperor, encountering the Torri D’Orlando amid the olive groves, ancient Roman towers, though local legend attributes their building to the mythical favoured general of Charlemagne (the subject of the epic poem The Song of Roland).
Day 5: Around Sutri
15km
Returning to Capranica it is another day where the landscape of ancient history and myth intertwine – walking through glens, above a rushing stream, peering through the trees to glimpse the formidable stone cliffs upon which perched an ancient Etruscan fortress, before arriving in Sutri itself, a town that drew Romans, popes, kings, saints and, more recently, George Clooney. The mosaic flooring in the Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta has a colourful splendour all of its own, with its baroque interior reminiscent of the St. John the Lateran in Rome.
Day 6: Sutri to Campagnano di Roma
21.5km
A long but rewarding day, broken by a stop at the delightful, gently cascading waterfalls in the park at Monte Gelato, where the landscape becomes steeper offering far-reaching views. A fantastic meal at the restaurant at the Albergo Begnini, sat beside the big open grill I also experienced the warmth of Italian hospitality, as my wine glass was filled by a couple sat next to me so that I could toast the husband’s fiftieth birthday! ‘In Italy the moment is what is important’, I remember him saying – not a bad motto for the holiday.
Day 7: Campagnano di Roma to La Giustiniana
22km
With only one day to go until I arrive in Rome I am still surprised how quiet and peaceful the walking has been, how green the landscape. A splendid start, with a steep ascent out of Campagnano di Roma being rewarded with glorious views – with glimpses of the outskirts of Rome in the early morning haze? A more dramatic, wilder landscape populated with cypress trees – the ‘classic’ landscape of the Roman campagna’.
Walking through a national park I was surprised to come across wild horses and cattle happily grazing away, though perhaps more surprised to come across the training ground for Lazio football club seemingly in the middle of nowhere! Isole Farnese, with its prominent castle was a final oasis of calm before the bustle of La Storta – where a coffee and a pastry at a local café were a welcome treat before the bus to La Giustiniana.
The Resort la Rocchetta was a perfect hideaway, with a warm and friendly welcome – a meal at a nearby restaurant, the Antica Osteria Da Pietro being one of the highlights of the entire trip!
Day 8: La Giustiniana to Rome
17km
Today is filled with a sense of anticipation at arriving at St. Peter’s today. I have travelled to Rome many times – by air, by rail, by bus but never on foot. Beginning with another surprisingly calm walk through a nature reserve – leaving the noise of commuting traffic far behind – before entering the surburbs of Rome proper. Walking up to the Monte della Gioia, where you catch your first sight of the glittering dome of St. Peters you can imagine the shouts of acclimation from pilgrims of a by-gone age.
Then winding down into Rome, snatching tantalising views of St. Peter’s before it disappears again. Continuing on my way, with backpack and walking stick and looking very much like a walker, locals called out in encouragement – the now familiar phrase ‘Buon Camino’ and (a first) ‘Via Francigena!’ I felt something apart from being merely a ‘tourist’.
Nothing can quite compare to the final approach, crossing Bernini’s bridge over the Tiber, by the Castel Sant’Angelo, before walking up the main throughfare towards the welcoming arms of St. Peter’s Square. Heading into the church with aching feet I stand under Michelangelo’s great dome – I have made it sono un pellegrino.
Continuing on my way, with backpack and walking stick and looking very much like a walker, locals called out in encouragement – the now familiar phrase ‘Buon Camino’ and (a first) ‘Via Francigena!’ I felt something apart from being merely a ‘tourist’. Nothing can quite compare to the final approach, crossing Bernini’s bridge over the Tiber, by the Castel Sant’Angelo, before walking up the main throughfare towards the welcoming arms of St. Peter’s Square. Heading into the church with aching feet I stand under Michelangelo’s great dome – I have made it sono un pellegrino.