What is the Tour du Mont Blanc?
The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is a 170km, multi-day walk that circumnavigates the Mont Blanc massif. The peak of Mont Blanc itself is western Europe's highest, at 4806m, shared by France and Italy – the border goes right over the top. But the rest of the massif’s peaks and glaciers are just as impressive. The ‘tour’ takes you through three countries (France, Italy and Switzerland), and involves around 10,000m of height gain and loss. It’s in a stunning part of the Alps and rightly popular and famous, attracting walkers from all over the world.
What were your expectations of the TMB and then the reality?
I already knew the region a bit and was expecting it to be spectacular, but also busy, to the extent that I’d been avoiding it and choosing less-travelled corners of the Alps – there are plenty of options. The reality was even more stunning than I’d imagined – each day seemed better than the last. The crowds of walkers we were sharing our days with were almost more than I could have believed, but also (thank goodness) not much of an issue.
Most people do the route anticlockwise so once underway each day you often found yourself in a ‘gap’; obviously, not everyone goes at the same pace, so if you’re speedy, it’s a good idea to start ahead of the majority. Between 15-20,000 people walk the TMB each year, so I was expecting a lot of rubbish and path damage, but there’s a path maintenance programme in place – it just wouldn’t work without it. The paths are generally wider than in remoter parts of the Alps, which made the going easier at times.
What special kit do you need, if any?
It’s a funny one: on a warm dry day and with lots of people on the route around you, it feels benign, as if you’re just going for a stroll. But it’s serious high mountain walking with the potential for weather to come in fast, and temperatures to plummet; on most legs of the route you reach altitudes where it can easily snow any day of the year.
So warm layers as well as good waterproofs are a minimum, and depending on your approach (both for yourself and those around you) a decent first aid kit and modern ‘shelter’ (they pack to the size of two fists and weight just a few grams - like tiny tents without poles; they’re a distinct upgrade on a space blanket).
If you’re going early-season, you may at least need so-called micro-spikes which loop over your walking shoes to give traction when crossing patches of snow.
How hard is the walking?
Each day is generally a big up and a big down. In classic walking terms it may not be the ‘profile’ you’d seek out for a comfortable walk. But this is an exceptional route and one that’s worth breaking the rules for.
The trick is to find a pace and attitude which allows you to enjoy the uphill – getting into a rhythm, enjoying your immediate environment (the flowers are often lovely) and the bigger picture – sensational views at almost every turn. Downhill is probably toughest for most people; poles can be useful for balance and to take the strain off your knees.
What’s the accommodation like?
Inntravel has found excellent accommodation all the way round. Due to the remoteness of some overnights, some of the rooms were simple but never the typical TMB experience of mountain huts with just basic facilities, where you sleep in cramped dormitories under scratchy blankets.
What was the camaraderie and adventure of doing this epic, bucket-list hike like?
It’s an incredibly cosmopolitan experience. You can practice any obscure language, though of course a majority of your fellow walkers are using English for communicating with other walkers as well as locals.
There are plenty of small groups and big groups, all with a shared sense of purpose; if you’re looking for companionship you can easily find it and it’s fun crossing paths with some of the same faces day by day.
Any particular highlights?
Starting in the beautiful town of St Gervais – not the usual start point for the TMB - our first walk wasn’t even on the TMB but up to a viewpoint where we could look across the valley to see Mont Blanc and the extent of the range, giving perspective on the trip to come.
Arriving at the Col de la Seigne, with views along the southern face of the massif, was exceptional and I think the two walks – onwards to and then from Courmayeur are some of the best for views. And down below, in Courmayeur, it’s just wonderful – you could spend a week: a beautiful old mountain town, with Italian bars and restaurants and great things to do other than just walk – the outdoor spa at nearby Pre St Didier, with views of the mountains, or a cable car ride to the top of Helbronner for up close views of Mont Blanc’s summit and alpine botanical gardens on the way down…
From your experience, why would you recommend booking with Inntravel for this iconic hike?
The mountain and the walking is a given – if you do the TMB, you share those with everyone. But the accommodation defines the Inntravel experience.