Umbria’s hidden villages

How well do you know Umbria, the region at Italy’s centre? My guess would be not nearly so well as Tuscany – its bigger, bolder next-door neighbour. Happily for the often-overlooked Umbria, however, secrecy is a superpower: it too can promise olive groves, vineyards, and medieval hill-top villages – but without Tuscany’s high visitor numbers.

Following the St Francis’ Way pilgrimage trail, Inntravel walking holidays in Umbria explore celebrated destinations from Assisi to Spoleto, but they also stray from the beaten track to visit the region's lesser-known towns and villages – places that we like to call our ‘forgotten’ favourites:

Spello

Umbria is home to many beauty spots, but there’s something special about Spello. This village of flowers (more on this in a moment) clambers steeply up the slopes of Mount Subasio, its hill-top location yielding spectacular views that on a clear day stretch as far as Assisi. Looking inward, the eye is met with medieval walls, Roman gates, and churches housing precious Renaissance frescoes. There are timeless cobblestone streets, independent boutiques, and delis that specialise in torta al testo – Umbria's take on focaccia.

If Spello's streets seem more festooned with flowers than most, this is intentional: between May and August the whole village competes for the most beautifully adorned windows, balconies, and alleys. And that's not all – Spello's crowning glory is the Infiorate, a religious flower festival held in the village on the ninth Sunday after Easter. In preparation for the procession of the Blessed Sacrament through Spello's streets, these are laid with intricate flower-petal carpets – it's estimated approximately 15 million flowers are used in the eye-catching creations.

How can I visit Spello? Our Umbrian walking holiday features a two-night stay in the village centre – at a four-star hotel with outdoor pool, panoramic terrace, and a renowned restaurant.

Collepino

If Spello is no household name, Collepino is a complete unknown. This tiny hill-village – its name meaning ‘Castle of Wolves’ – dates from the Middle Ages and is built entirely of local stone. It's located just 7.5 kilometres from Spello, higher up the mountainside and deep within the Mount Subasio Natural Park.

When casting about for a word to describe Collepino today, you might land on 'serene', 'still', or 'meditative' – after all, its mazy medieval streets are home to no more than 50 residents, one bar, and one trattoria. However, Collepino was once a defensive stronghold – as hinted by its thick outer walls scored by arrowslits. Back in the 16th century, it was also the scene of Papal aggression, when Pope Paul III's troops sacked the village to suppress rebellions during the Salt War of 1540. Incidentally, the salt taxes that prompted this war are the reason many Italian bakers still omit salt from their bread today!

How can I visit Collepino? Enjoy a circular walk to Collepino from nearby Spello – just one of four beautiful bases on our walking holiday along St Francis’ Way.

Bevagna

It may be officially lovely – featuring on the list of Italy’s most beautiful towns – but Bevagna still maintains a low profile. Much of what we know about the town dates from Roman times, when Bevagna was an important commercial hub. You’ll still find evidence of Classical life in the superb mosaic floors of the Roman baths, in the remnants of temples and theatres, and even in the modern-day post office with its two marble columns.

If Bevagna’s Roman links are fascinating, its medieval offering is even more compelling. The town is surrounded by sweeping walls, and among the historic palazzi and piazze are a congregation of Gothic and Romanesque churches. You can even taste the Middle Ages in Bevagna’s cuisine, with traditional local recipes coming from the kitchens of a nearby monastery. For more historic flavours and crafts, we recommend visiting in late June – when the Mercato delle Gaite medieval festival is in full swing.

How can I visit Bevagna? We organise a taxi to transport you directly from Spello to Bevagna, with time to explore before continuing your Inntravel walking holiday through Umbria.

Montefalco

This sleepy hill-top town is known for its viticulture and its views – both among the region’s finest. Montefalco’s panoramas have earnt it the nickname ‘The Balcony of Umbria’, while its distinctive wines come in several varieties, including Montefalco Rosso – a medium-bodied red; Montefalco Bianco – light, white, and with tropical flavours; and Montefalco Sagrantino – a complex and intense red wine made from region’s most celebrated grape.

You can decide on your favourite at one of the town’s wine shops, or perhaps over lunch in the central Piazza del Commune. The briefest of strolls separate this medieval square from one of Montefalco’s most fascinating buildings: the deconsecrated church of San Francesco. Now part of the town museum, it contains a beautifully restored fresco cycle by Gozzoli. The subject? Who else? Umbria’s most famous son, Saint Francis of Assisi.

How can I visit Montefalco? Montefalco is the final stop on our Umbrian walking route from Spello – and we highly recommend pausing here to enjoy lunch in the town – or at least a tasting of its famous wines.

Umbria’s hidden villages

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