Sierra Nevada: An Alpujarran Village Experience

Las Alpujarras – a land steeped in tradition
 

Exceptional food | Culinary traditions that stretch back millennia.
Berber legacy | Embedded in the outstanding landscapes – and your walking routes.
Your hotel | A unique mountain retreat. Character, cosy spaces, and friendly hosts.
Glimpses of rural Spain | Tour a local winery or join an organic farm tour.
Granada | Just two hours by car, with its world-famous Alhambra palace.

What is included
  • 7 nights
  • 7 dinners
    3 picnics
    7 breakfasts
  • route notes, maps
    & detailed cultural notes
  • GPS navigation
  • 7 days' category B car hire
  • Sierra Nevada: An Alpujarran Village Experience
    Las Alpujarras – a land steeped in tradition
  • In Spring enjoy the almond blossom
  • Walk past some of the old water cisterns
  • Discover the traditional craft methods still used today
  • View towards Jubar
  • Looking towards Mairena
  • Well signed routes
  • Shepherd at nightfall
  • Harvesting olives
  • Traditional ways of life continue
  • Breathtaking views across Las Alpujarras landscape
  • Your accommodation is a series of traditional village houses
  • Walking into Mairena
What is included
  • 7 nights
  • 7 dinners
    3 picnics
    7 breakfasts
  • route notes, maps
    & detailed cultural notes
  • GPS navigation
  • 7 days' category B car hire
 

Holiday information

 

Culture & walking in Las Alpujarras

Gain unique insights into local ways of life on this self-guided, single-centre walking holiday, with car hire included. Savour delicious regional gastronomy and enjoy rewarding, varied walks in this timeless area of outstanding natural beauty.
To the south-east of the Moorish city of Granada, the almond-coated hills of Las Alpujarras flank the southern slopes of the dramatic Sierra Nevada, the highest mountains in mainland Spain. Here, characteristic whitewashed villages tumble down terraced valleys, and the ancient Moorish irrigation systems are a testament to the area’s long and colourful past. Here, you will find a traditional way of life that seems untouched by the passage of time. Mairena, the base for your holiday, is one such timeless Alpujarran village whose hard-working inhabitants adhere to a simple way of life, based upon a sound knowledge of the terrain and climate.

Autumn heralds the fig, medlar and pomegranate harvest, after which the traditional farming cycle continues with preparations for the December olive harvest. By January, this is in full swing and the hillsides are dotted with families, armed with sticks to dislodge this stubborn, yet highly prized, fruit. February sees an explosion of colour as the almond trees burst into flower beneath impossibly blue skies; and so, into March, when the intoxicating scent of sweet, young oranges wafts down the valleys and the grapes in local vineyards begin to ripen under the warming sun.

Here, with the help of your knowledgeable hosts, Emma and David Illsley, you have the opportunity to become much more than just a spectator, immersing yourself in the gentle rhythms of the south. David and Emma will take you on a guided tour through the fruit trees of their nearby organic farm (finca); from December to January, you can witness the olive harvest; and maybe even join the hotel cook, Conchi, in the kitchen as she lovingly recreates authentic Alpujarran dishes. Combine these village experiences with scenic, varied walks along ancient paths linking other traditional villages, and you will gain a real insight into this alluring corner of southern Spain.

 

Walking & more

The key to Inntravel holidays is flexibility. You can start on the day of your choice, and are free to add extra nights. There’s no fixed itinerary, so take your pick of our suggested walking routes as the mood takes you.
  • The average maximum daytime temperatures and monthly rainfall relate to the nearest weather station and are intended as a guide only.
     
    Average temperatures and rainfall
      Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
    °C 11 12 15 17 22 27 32 32 28 21 15 11
    mm 53 55 47 52 37 26 10 7 20 51 64 61
  • Learn about life in Las Alpujarras
    This holiday combines insights into local ways of life with some superb walks so as to give you a real feel for Las Alpujarras. Your enthusiastic hosts, Emma and David Illsley, will be only too happy to share their knowledge of their adopted village and its traditional practices with you. To get your bearings, David or Emma will take you on an introductory tour of their small finca and the village, explaining the intricacies of the complex Moorish irrigation system which still waters the terraces and feeds into the local olive mill. In December and January, you will witness the olive harvest, enjoying the buzz that animates the immaculate groves as the local villagers knock the branches with a sturdy stick to dislodge the stubborn fruit. On occasion, you can also join local cook Conchi in the kitchen. Her family has lived in Las Alpujarras for generations, and she lovingly recreates age-old local recipes with a delicious modern twist. For anyone with an interest in wine, David and Emma may also be able to arrange a tour of the award-winning Buena Vista bodega in Ugijar, complete with a wine-tasting. Arrange and pay locally. 

    Sustainable tourism at the finca

    David and Emma care deeply about the long-term sustainability of the Alpujarras region and a week with them will give you a real insight into some of their ongoing projects on their organic finca. From its inception, the finca was always going to be a place where traditional farming methods would be used to enhance and improve the land, creating a restful haven where the fruits of the fields could be harvested for the hotel and restaurant. Central to this idea – and still as important today – has been learning from the locals and working in tune with nature and the seasons. With this uppermost in their minds, David and Emma have always been quick to seek – and accept – help and advice from local farmers who showed them how to irrigate, plough, prune and tend the land in the age-old traditions of the village.

    Organic farming

    The finca has been granted official ‘organic’ status by the Soil Association, based on farming methods and a complete absence of herbicides and pesticides, thus recognising that all their produce is as fresh, good and natural as nature intended. A welcome by-product of these methods has been the deliberate setting aside of areas of uncultivated land – as all weeds, hedgerows and grasses now have to be controlled the old fashioned way, by hand – leading to an extraordinary variety of flowers and an abundance of insects and bird-life which flourishes in this magical place.




    Traditional cooking
    Gathering the olives
  • Choice of routes: 3km to 6km
    We provide notes for four easy walks. The first three start in Mairena, while the last one is a little further afield.

    A stroll in the Mairena Valley: 3km, 1hr; ascent/descent 150m
    Taking in David and Emma’s finca, this is a great introductory circuit around the terraced slopes south of the village. It’s a walk that David and Emma often accompany you on, showing you the tended gardens of the villagers and passing the rocky outcrop known as the Peñón de Alfaguara, from where there are spectacular views of the landscape and of the village.

    Down to Ugíjar: 6km, 1.5hrs; ascent 25m/descent 515m
    A great way to visit the market town of Ugíjar, perhaps in time to visit the local market and linger over a leisurely lunch. The way weaves down along the river valley, through some of the oldest olive groves in the area, passing alongside the steeply eroded, coloured marls and clays and into the well-watered almond terraces that fill the pretty valley just before Ugíjar. Return by taxi (pay locally).

    A circuit via Júbar: 6km, 2.5hrs; ascent/descent 360m
    This walk starts with a steepish climb but soon descends to the small village of Júbar, following one of the many water channels built to irrigate the lower slopes of the Alpujarras. It then follows a pretty path back to Mairena.

    The walk of the Fountain of Health: 4.5km, 2hrs; ascent/descent 240m
    A very pleasant short walk into the hills on the northern side of Yegen, to the west of Mairena, following an ancient cobbled track past some springs, hence its name.
    The area west of Mairena
    A stroll in the Mairena Valley: 3km
    Down to Ugíjar: 6km
    A circuit via Júbar: 6km
    The walk of the Fountain of Health: 4.5km
  • Choice of routes: 4.5km to 11.5km
    These easy-to-moderate walks all start a short distance away from Mairena.

    A circuit from Laroles: 8km, 3.5hrs; ascent/descent 480m
    Starting and ending in Laroles, you head upstream across the western side of the valley, passing a thousand-year-old chestnut tree before returning to Laroles on a high path across the eastern flank of the valley.

    The Gerald Brenan circuit: 4.5km, 2hrs; ascent/descent 350m
    This walk on the southern slopes of Yegen, to the west of Mairena, heads down into the bad-lands, a multi-coloured lunar landscape of strangely shaped, eroded rocks. At the base of the valley sits the isolated cubic rock known as Peñon el Fuerte, the site of a now vanished Moorish castle. It is said that Gerald Brenan walked this route every afternoon.

    The silk mill: 11.5km, 4hrs; ascent/descent 400m
    A gentle exploration of the valley of the Río Grande (‘big river’) which passes an ancient silk mill.
    Laroles
    A circuit from Laroles: 8km
    The Gerald Brenan circuit: 4.5km
    Silk mill: 11.5km
  • Choice of routes: 10km or 12km
    The first of these moderate walks starts from Mairena itself.

    'Top of the World' circuit above Mairena: 10km, 4hrs; ascent/descent 520m
    David and Emma refer to this as the ‘On Top of the World Walk’ as it climbs up high on the northern slopes above the village, passing ancient, abandoned water cisterns and threshing floors. With views of Laroles on the other side of a valley, you wind down through chestnut groves to the hamlet of Júbar before a stroll back to Mairena.

    The old silk village of Válor: 12km, 4hrs; ascent/descent 595m
    This is a delightful out-and-back walk which leads to the old silk weaving town of Válor, passing through terraced slopes, and then descending to the Rio Nechite, crossing the river by stepping stones, before finally reaching Válor where there are several restaurants for lunch.
    The old silk village of Válor
    'Top of the World' circuit above Mairena: 10km
    The old silk village of Válor: 12km
  • Visit the Alhambra
    Given the area’s rich Moorish heritage, you will probably wish to visit Granada's world-famous Alhambra*, a two-hour drive away. This is the epitome of Moorish architecture and design, showcasing the astonishingly intricate décor of the royal palace and its colourful gardens. Across the river, the atmospheric Albaicín district is Spain's most characteristic Moorish quarter and is wonderfully intriguing, its steep, cobbled streets leading past whitewashed houses. We include notes for a superb self-guided walking tour taking in the city's main attractions.

    *You must pre-book tickets online (or by phone) as far as possible in advance. It is open every day except 25 December and 1 January.
    The Alhambra, Granada
 

Accommodation

Your base is Mairena, a typical Alpujarran village where mules still outnumber cars by two to one at harvest time!
Casa las Chimeneas
  • rural hotel

Bedrooms

 
Prices & travel options
All prices are in £ sterling (GBP). If you'd like to see what they equate to in your currency, use the converter. For general information on pricing, see the 'your holiday price explained' page.
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  • 7 nights: 01 September 2024 - 10 November 2024, 01 February 2025 - 30 June 2025 & 01 September 2025 - 09 November 2025

    Start any day | End by latest date(s) shown above

    Starting Price Single room
    1 - 28 Feb 2024 £880 £345
    1 - 31 Mar 2024 £915 £345
    1 Apr - 23 Jun 2024 £960 £350
    1 Sep - 14 Oct 2024 £1045 £380
    15 - 31 Oct 2024 £1015 £375
    1 - 3 Nov 2024 £975 £365
    1 - 28 Feb 2025 £920 £360
    1 - 31 Mar 2025 £955 £360
    1 Apr - 23 Jun 2025 £1000 £365
    1 Sep - 14 Oct 2025 £1070 £400
    15 - 31 Oct 2025 £1035 £390
    1 - 2 Nov 2025 £1015 £380
    3rd & 4th person discount -£70 to -£74
    Single traveller supplement £70 to £74

    Includes accommodation, meals and services integral to the holiday as described, plus walking notes and maps, but no travel from the UK, nor any connecting travel from the airport unless stated below.

    Price includes: 7 days' category B car hire (eg VW Polo or similar with manual transmission)

    Driving time to/from the hotel: Almeria 1h45, Granada 2h, Málaga 3h

    Book your flights through us and we'll find the best route and times to suit you. Please contact us to find out more about our flight booking service. We can also book connecting travel - see below.

  • Extra nights (£ per person per night) in a double or single room

    Prices include an additional day's car hire
    Casa las Chimeneas, Mairena (with dinner) Double room Single room
    01 Feb - 30 Jun 2024 £121 £169
    01 Sep - 10 Nov 2024 £139 £192
    01 Feb - 30 Jun 2025 £130 £180
    01 Sep - 09 Nov 2025 £145 £200
Price from
£1015pp | 7 nights
Sierra Nevada: An Alpujarran Village Experience. 7 nights
Price from
£1015pp
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