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Along the Ligurian Coast

From the Portofino Peninsula to the Cinque Terre

Stretching from the border with France down to Tuscany, the Ligurian Riviera is one of the natural wonders of Italy, where warm, wooded mountains tumble steeply down to the Mediterranean, and fishing ports and small resorts nestle in the little bays and sandy coves. It is a region of delicious seafood, pesto and unusual white wines such as Sciacchetrà. Offering endlessly changing scenery and some of Europe’s finest coastal walking, this delightful holiday explores the unspoiled Portofino Peninsula and the famed Cinque Terre (the 'Five Lands'), with superb optional routes along the higher paths of the latter and options to shorten the walks using trains and boats (pay locally). The area's few hotels and well-merited popularity among walkers make it strongly advisable to book early or to travel in spring or autumn, when the paths are quieter.

Nights: 7 (or 9 if continuing to Portovenere)
Grade: 2
Terrain: coastal paths, pine forests, some rocky sections and steps
Hotels: two (or three) 3-star hotels; one 4-star hotel
Meals: breakfast each day. For dinner, take your pick of the local restaurants (pay locally)
Climate: this sunny region enjoys long, hot summers and mild winters. Average temperatures range from 18°C in May and November to 22°C in June and September and 25°C at the height of summer. Swimming pools are generally open from mid-June to late September.

Bustling small ports

Camogli

San Fruttuoso

Europe's finest coastal walking

Cenobio dei Dogi, Camogli

Villages perch above the sea

Ligurian tall houses

Starting point: Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi (4*), Camogli. Located on the edge of Camogli, this high-quality hotel overlooks the sea – we include standard garden view rooms but you can upgrade to a sea view room or superior sea view room to make your stay all the more special. The excellent facilities include an outdoor swimming pool (open mid-June to late September), a private beach and a superb restaurant (pay locally if you choose to dine here).

Day 1: we suggest that you spend your day in Camogli exploring the beautiful Portofino Peninsula on foot. Our walk leads up through cultivated terraces planted with olive groves and then through woodland of holm oaks and chestnuts. You descend through more olive groves to Portofino, where you catch the boat (pay locally) for the thrilling – and very scenic – trip along the coast to San Fruttuoso, framed by wooded hills. Take time to visit the attractive Romanesque abbey (which is only accessible by foot or by boat) and to enjoy a swim before the walk back to Camogli. (15km, 6-7hrs, including stops)

Accommodation: Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi, as above.

Day 2: the day starts with a train journey (ticket included) to Deiva Marina, from where you follow paths and tracks above the coast, passing olive groves, woodland, colourful villas and the charming village of Setta. There are numerous ascents and descents throughout the day, but the views of the coast reward your efforts. (13km, 6hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Nazionale (3*), Levanto. This unpretentious family-run hotel is well located for both the town and the beach. In good weather, the pretty garden makes a pleasant setting for breakfast, and there is also a roof terrace from which you can admire the views as you relax.

Day 3: there are various walking possibilities from Levanto, but we suggest a short circular route through the terraced hills behind the coast that passes through vineyards, olive groves and ancient hamlets, leaving time in the afternoon to relax on Levanto’s pleasant beach. (7km, 3hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Nazionale, as above.

Day 4: today’s walk takes you across the Punta Mesco headland, offering superb views of the rocky coast and the glittering Mediterranean as you head towards Monterosso, the largest of the five Cinque Terre villages. Arrival at Punta Mesco itself is a real highlight of the day – from here you can see most of the Cinque Terre. (9km, 3.5hrs)

Accommodation: La Colonnina (3*), Monterosso. The Raffellini family's highly regarded hotel is located in the town’s delightful historic centre, with a panoramic roof terrace.
Upgrade option: Hotel Porto Roca (4*), Monterosso. Set on a cliff above the sea, this high-quality hotel is widely regarded as one of the finest positioned hotels on the coast.

Days 5 & 6: spend your final two days exploring the Cinque Terre and its other four villages from your base in Monterosso. You can complete the famous – and very popular – path of the Cinque Terre, returning either by train or boat (pay locally for these and for access to the paths) or, for an even more rewarding end to your holiday, explore the quiet, little-used paths high above the coast to discover the ‘real’ Cinque Terre. A challenging but thrilling circular walk leads inland from Monterosso to two chapels which boast astonishing views across the terraced slopes to the sea. The route then takes you across several small valleys, through woodland and vineyards, before zigzagging steeply down to the very traditional village of Vernazza from where you follow the main coastal path back to Monterosso. A shorter option is to take the bus (pay locally) to Manorola from where you ascend stone stairways through olive groves to the hill-top village of Volastra to pick up a path that leads across steeply terraced vineyards towards the smallest Cinque Terre village, Corniglia. The views throughout the walk stretch for miles – you can even see Corsica on a clear day. (15km, 7hrs and 5km, 2hrs)

Accommodation: La Colonnina, as above.

Day 7: if you have opted for the 9-night version, today you start with a short train journey (pay locally) to Riomaggiore, from where you ascend gradually to the panoramic Sanctuary of Madonna di Montenero. Your path then continues to rise and fall, the attractive woodland through which you walk providing welcome shade. You descend to the medieval village of Campiglia then head through more woodland to emerge onto the red rocks that give this part of the coastline its name (Costa Rossa). As you approach your destination, the challenging coastal path rewards you with sweeping views of Portovenere and the islands that lie just off the coast. (14km, 5hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Paradiso (3*), Portovenere. The Della Croce family welcomes you warmly to their delightful hotel. The bedrooms are all decorated in typical Mediterranean style, and enjoy the same views over the sea afforded by the restaurant (pay locally if you choose to dine here) and the terrace, the perfect spot for leisurely breakfasts in the sunshine.

Day 8: spend your last day exploring Portovenere, an ancient fortified fishing village with streets lined with pastel-coloured tall houses so typical of the Ligurian Riviera. Alternatively, for a different perspective of the coast, take a boat trip to the small island of Palmaria or to the port of La Spezia (pay locally).

Accommodation: Hotel Paradiso, as above.

Walking chart: the chart gives the distance and an approximation of the ascents and descents involved on the standard 7-night route. If comparing holidays, please note the scale of each chart as this can differ.

Recommendations for extra nights: choose La Colonnina (Monterosso) to enjoy more walking. The Cenobio dei Dogi (Camogli) is a particularly good choice for a day of relaxation by the sea.

Other information: if you would like to see the brochure page, you can download this (and the pages for any other holidays you are interested in) by using our brochure creation system.

Similar holidays: The Amalfi Coast & Villages (grade 2), The Sorrento Peninsula (grade 2), Secret Algarve (grade 2), Collioure to Cadaqués (grade 2)

Prices & travel

Recommended destination airports: Genova & Pisa
Latest flight arrival time: Genova 1900; Pisa 1600
Earliest flight departure time (standard holiday): Genova 1100; Pisa 1300
*Connecting travel (standard holiday): return rail from Genova (out 0h50/home 1h50) £30pp;
return rail from Pisa (out 2h50/home 2h45) £43pp
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Extra night prices 2008 (extra nights can be booked at any hotel):

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