Home > Destinations > Italy

In Praise of Il Mezzogiorno - Italy’s Extraordinary South

By David Quick

Il Mezzogiorno – ‘the midday’ – is how Italians often refer to the peninsula’s regions south of Rome. The name alludes to the hot sunshine that characterises the climate, and the open warmth of the people. I believe the south is now the place to discover if you love all things Italian, and our customers who have travelled in Basilicata, on Sicily, or along the Amalfi Coast, have told us of their delight in exploring these places. As always in Italy, regional food and wines are key to the enjoyment, and you will not be disappointed here. The wines have improved markedly in recent years, and the cuisine is truly Mediterranean in style.

The south’s main city is Naples, perhaps my favourite Italian city. To truly appreciate the city’s unique blend of beauty, energy and chaos, take a taxi up to the wonderful Capodimonte gallery, leaving the anarchic traffic to stroll through the quiet gardens, and enjoy the views of the great Bay of Naples. Equally, enjoy the wonderful food of the city, whether at a grand, formal restaurant, in a bustling trattoria, or in a pizzeria (this latter is something of a must in the city that gave birth to this versatile food). Great museums, good shopping, magnificent Renaissance and Baroque churches and palaces – Naples has it all. No visit to the Mezzogiorno is complete without a night or two here! Extend your stay and you could visit Pompeii, or ancient Paestum, smaller, quieter but equally evocative.

At the southern tip of the bay, having passed beneath glowering Vesuvius, you reach the Amalfi Coast, a paradise for walkers. Here, where the warm, wooded mountains tumble into the turquoise ocean, stone paths and ancient mule tracks offer unforgettable routes between the villages that cling, improbably, to the hillsides. To stay in – and walk between – such exquisite villages as Ravello and Positano feels the most marvellous privilege. You can also walk around the cape to end at Sorrento, where the 5-star Hotel Excelsior Vittoria offers a timeless travel experience – the ultimate walkers’ treat!

South of Campania, you reach rugged Basilicata, a region I first visited in 1987. Basilicata is truly for those who appreciate Italy in all its great variety, and our Mountains & Coast walk is a unique discovery. You begin in the green mountains of the Pollino National Park at Pino Golia’s friendly hotel, the Picchio Nero. Let Pino select you a good bottle of the local Aglianico del Vulture – a heady but smooth and refined red of great distinction – and sit back to enjoy the tastes of the south – homemade pasta, great lamb or fish dishes, excellent vegetables. Having walked through the mountains, you reach the coast at the small village of Acquafredda and the romantic, elegant Hotel Villa Cheta, the perfect spot at which to end this exploration of Basilicata.

Officially, Sicily cannot be classified as part of Italy’s south – it is an island, of course, and its proud people regard themselves as distinct from the rest of the peninsula. But the character of the Mezzogiorno is shared by the rugged landscapes of Sicily, and to some extent by its inhabitants, too. We introduced Sicily to our programme in 2004, having spent a couple of years exploring. We fell in love with the Madonie Mountains, serene and timeless, and our walk here leads you through the Natural Park, passing remote villages, to reach the sea at Cefalù. Your final two nights are spent at the luxurious Relais Santa Anastasia, one of the loveliest hotels in our programme. From the terrace and gardens you might catch glimpses of the Aeolian Islands to the north. Be sure to add a night or two in Palermo to your holiday – as fascinating as Naples, the island’s capital is another thrilling, bustling city that should not be missed on any trip to Sicily.

Head south this summer, then, for the true Mezzogiorno experience!

< Back to Destinations Index