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Catalonia

A region made for walkers

Catalonia is one of Europe's 'hidden' regions. Once a nation state, it is now spread over two countries – France and Spain – but its people are proudly 'Catalan', including those in France. The capital is Barcelona, perhaps Europe's most exciting city, and the reinvention of the city has given the whole region a new self-confidence and vitality. Needless to say, Catalans are proud of their heritage and traditions, and offer a warm welcome to foreign visitors.

For walkers, there is a choice between the beautiful coast of the northern Costa Brava, the Mediterranean Pyrenees, and the wooded hills of the Garrotxa that lie between the two.

The Along the Catalan Coast route explores the quiet, unspoiled Empordà region of the Costa Brava, full of small, rocky bays perfect for a midday swim along the way. We love this region, which has some of the loveliest coastline of the Mediterranean, and a relaxed, civilised air in the bustling fishing ports. The standard of hotels here is especially high, both in the rooms and the food, with fresh, well-prepared seafood. It is also a wine-producing area, making decent white wines that are the ideal, and inexpensive, accompaniment.

To complement this popular holiday, we offer another coastal walk slightly further north. The Around the Bay of Roses walk is a discovery of the many treasures of the upper Costa Brava: the sweeping arc of the Gulf of Roses, the Greek and Roman ruins at Empuries, the Aiguamolls bird reserve, and numerous atmospheric medieval towns and villages. Again, the hotels are all of 3- and 4-star standard, and the quality of the cuisine is equally good, if not slightly higher. The food is also a highlight of the Catalan Castles & Coves walk, which offers a combination of inland and coastal walking. The leisurely route leads across a patchwork of fields of wheat, sunflowers and vines, taking in some of the many medieval villages crowned by crumbling castles that are scattered across the inland plain.

Our third coastal route starts in France, at Collioure, the jewel of the Côte Vermeille. As its name suggests, the Collioure to Cadaqués walk leads south from here, across the border and through the beautiful Cap de Creus Natural Park to Cadaqués which, like Collioure, was the inspiration to numerous artists throughout the 20th century. On your day in Port de la Selva, we highly recommend an excursion to the monastery of San Pere de Rodes, from where you can marvel at the astonishing views back along the coast to the French border. As you walk past small, rocky coves, craggy headlands and rugged cliffs over the course of the week, it is easy to grasp the lure and enchantment that this delightful area has held for so many painters.

Another walk that crosses the Franco-Spanish border is the Grand Cerdagne, in the Mediterranean Pyrenees. At the centre of the Cerdagne region is a broad, rolling plateau. Peaks rise to the east and west, and our circuit takes you round both massifs. The villages are fascinating and the walking is excellent, through an astonishing range of landscapes, from the high-altitude tarns around Bouillouse to the flower-filled valley of Eyne, which leads up to the border and over to the Catalan pilgrimage site of Nuria, with its famed monastery.

Just to the south of the border, we have a splendid high mountain walk, the Catalan Pyrenees walk, which leads through wild and unspoiled landscapes home to griffon vultures and lammergeiers. We had to work hard on organising the paths for this walk, as the mapping is not ideal, but with good waymarking the result is an thoroughly rewarding circuit. One of the best days is from Setcases. It starts with a steep ascent to the extraordinary Lliens Pass, where you are rewarded with an unrivalled panorama: to one side, the dramatic Pyrenean peaks, to the other, the warm, wooded hills of the Garrotxa. Linger here as you enjoy your picnic before descending through grand landscapes via the broad ridge of the Fembra Morta to the unspoiled hamlet of Molló, just a mile or two from the French border.

Between the coast and the Pyrenees lie the secret hills of the Garrotxa. Since its launch in 2001, the Pyrenees to the Garrotxa holiday has proved extremely popular. Its wide appeal is due to the variety of the scenery and the region's timeless feel - there is a real sense of adventure as you walk from the Pyrenees into the increasingly Mediterranean landscape of the volcanic Garrotxa region, discovering unspoiled medieval villages. The sense of journey is even greater on the Pyrenees to the Sea walk, which leads from the Garrotxa, through the foothills of the Pyrenees, to the sea close to Spain's easternmost point.

Wherever you travel in Catalonia, you will discover a remarkably intact and alive culture, with the Catalan language spoken everywhere.

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