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Umbria – Italy’s Green Heart

From Spoleto to the Monti Sibillini

Rugged, wild, incredibly varied and beautiful, Umbria, where pretty valleys descend from the high mountain pastures and peaks of the Sibillini Mountains, is known as Italy’s ‘green heart’. From the dazzling medieval hill-top town of Spoleto, this hugely rewarding and fascinating walk leads you through the warm, wooded valley of the Valnerina, up into the dramatic Monti Sibillini National Park. There is a timeless and spiritual quality to Umbria, so unspoiled and wild, with Romanesque churches, secret hermitages and wayside chapels dotted along the ancient trails. Summers are long, but the mountain air is fresh, and the green meadows are filled with spectacular flowers throughout early summer. You have plenty of opportunities to enjoy the earthy Umbrian cuisine, famed for its use of black truffles, and the robust reds of Torgiano and Montefalco. The Spoleto arts festival takes place from late June to mid-July; please book early for this period.

Nights: 7
Grade: 2-3
Terrain: woodland, valley and mountain paths, some strade bianche (unmade roads)
Hotels: one 2-star hotel; three 3-star hotels
Meals: breakfast each day, dinner on 4 nights, plus 2 picnics
Climate: Umbria enjoys a long summer, when temperatures average 22°C, and a fine spring and autumn, with average temperatures of 15°C in May and 18°C in September.

14th-century aqueduct, Spoleto
Abbey of San Pietro in Valle
Castellucio Plain
Piano Grande

Starting point: Hotel Clitunno (3*), Spoleto. Situated in the heart of the old town, within easy walking distance of the cathedral, the Tomassino family’s hotel is an excellent base for exploring Spoleto. Breakfast only is included, leaving you free to choose between the hotel's own restaurant and those elsewhere in the town.

Day 1: your first day is left free to explore Spoleto, one of Umbria’s finest hill-top towns. The focal point is the fan-shaped Piazza del Duomo, site of the magnificent 12th-century cathedral. Other important monuments that you should not miss include the Roman theatre, the 14th-century aqueduct and the Romanesque church of Sant Eufemia.

Accommodation: Hotel Clitunno, as above.

Day 2: the day begins with a transfer to the holy mountain of Monteluco and the scenic Porelle Pass. From here, you head through ancient woodland then ascend to another panoramic pass where you join a medieval stone footpath. This beautiful trail passes through an abandoned hamlet and soon begins to wind uphill for more sweeping views. The path then continues to rise and fall, weaving in and out of woodland, before descending steeply from the Forca Pass to the Abbazia di San Pietro. (17km, 6hrs)

Accommodation: Abbazia di San Pietro (3*), San Pietro in Valle. This unique hotel is housed within part of the magnificent abbey of San Pietro, an 8th-century Benedictine monastery, and your stay here is a real highlight of the holiday – it is a rare privilege to stay in such a spiritual place. The Constanzi family have created an atmospheric hotel totally in harmony with the rest of the building and offer a warm welcome to guests.

Day 3: to explore the Valnerina (‘valley of the black river’) a little further, we suggest that you walk along the strada bianca next to the evocative, tree-lined Nera. The river earned its name because of the darkness of its narrow valley framed by craggy slopes, and as the valley is so peaceful and unspoiled, it makes the perfect setting for the abbey. Your target is Scheggino, where you can have lunch before catching the bus back (pay locally). (14km, 3.5hrs)

Accommodation: Abbazia di San Pietro, as above.

Day 4: after a transfer to the ancient village of Visso in the Monti Sibillini National Park, you rise steadily to emerge onto grassy moorland fringed by rocky peaks where you can sometimes spot deer, foxes or even a distant wolf. The views are superb but improve further as you ascend along the broad spine of Mount Lungo. Later, as you wind gradually downhill towards Preci, you can detour to the cave and chapel of San Fiorenzo, one of many hermits’ dwellings in the region. (13km, 4.5hrs)

Accommodation: Albergo agli Scacchi (2*), Preci. Rooms here are modern in style, while the cooking is hearty and traditional. There is a small terrace and an outdoor pool in which to relax in the summer months.

Day 5: from Preci a superb route ascends steadily to meet an ancient path which winds through trees to the majestic abbey of San Eutizio. From here, a medieval trail leads across the flank of Mount Macchialunga, through the village of Campi, and along the valley to another pass for the long, steep descent via a couple of ancient villages to Norcia. For a slightly easier day, you can reach Campi by means of an attractive woodland path past two more chapels. On arrival in Norcia, take time to explore this delightful walled town and its various monuments. (16km, 6.5hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Grotta Azzurra (3*), Norcia. The focal point of the Bianconi family's hotel is the atmospheric and popular restaurant – the regional cooking is justly renowned locally, with delicious truffle specialities. We include dinner on your first night, leaving you free to return on your second night or to try one of the town's other restaurants (pay locally in both cases).

Day 6: this walk deep into the Monti Sibillini National Park is a fantastic climax to the holiday. You start by ascending some 1,000 metres into magnificent grassy uplands where you are greeted with superb views over the wild Piano Grande (‘Great Plain’) below. You walk above the plain on a high-level route over a couple more passes to the remote and atmospheric village of Castelluccio, from where you are transferred back to Norcia. (15km, 6hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Grotta Azzurra, as above.

Walking chart: the chart gives the distance and an approximation of the ascents and descents involved each day. If comparing holidays, please note the scale of each chart as this can differ.

Recommendations for extra nights: the Hotel Grotta Azzurra (Norcia) makes a good base for extra walking, or we recommend another night in San Pietro for a day of relaxation in tranquil surroundings.

Extensions: If you are flying via Rome, you could add on a stay at the 3* Hotel Mozart and discover the many treasures and special atmosphere of intriguing Rome.

Other information: if you would like to see the brochure page, you can download this (and the pages for any other holidays you are interested in) by using our brochure creation system. Read our website travel diary for a personal account of the holiday.

Similar holidays: From Bologna to Florence (grade 2-3), The Secret Apennines (grade 2-3), The Catalan Pyrenees (grade 2-3), The Grand Cerdagne (grade 2-3)

Prices & travel 2008:

£ per person based
on 2 in a double rm
Walk
price*
Single
room
7 nights: 12 April-11 July & 23 August-24 October
12-30 Apr 581 98
1-23 May; 1-24 Oct 599 98
24 May-20 Jun; 23 Aug-30 Sep 612 98
21 Jun-11 Jul 640 98
3rd+ person saving 63  

Recommended destination airports: Rome or Perugia
Latest flight arrival time:
1700
Earliest flight departure time:
1300
*Connecting travel:
rail from Rome & taxi/rail back (out 1h35/home 2h35) £49pp; return taxi from Perugia (out 0h50/home 1h45) £68pp
Extra nights
can be booked at any hotel
Start:
any day
Book your flights through us and we'll find the best route, times and price to suit you

Extra night prices

Extra nights (£ per person per night) Double
room
Single
room
Norcia All dates 35 49
San Pietro 12-24 Apr; 2-31 May; 4 Jun-11 Jul; 23 Aug-24 Oct 80 95
  25 Apr-1 May; 1-3 Jun 85 104

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