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Samos, an Aegean Island

Wild bays & inspirational views

Beach at Megalo Seitani, Samos

Green, enchanting and varied in its landscapes, Samos is an Aegean gem. Our walk leads you around the island, from its northern shoreline, round the mountainous west, to the warm waters of the popular southern coast. Using three simple, relaxed hotels as bases, our route is leisurely, though with plenty to captivate keen walkers, including, as its climax, a superb walk across the slopes of some of the island's highest peaks for astonishing views of the surrounding islands. The benevolent Mediterranean climate ensures good walking conditions in spring, when the flowers – including various orchids – are spectacular, as well as in autumn. As you walk, you may spot a variety of birds, as the island lies on the main migration route along the Turkish coast. Just some of the species that can be spotted according to season are: bee-eaters, flamingos, sea eagles, golden eagles, snake eagles, purple herons, little egrets, hoopoes and nightingales. The Aegean provides fresh fish and seafood, and do not neglect the island’s surprisingly good wines, including the light Samaina whites.

Nights: 7
Grade:
2
Terrain: rugged hills, woodland, coastal paths
Hotels: three 2-star hotels. As there is a different classification system in Greece, star ratings are our own.
Meals: breakfast each day, dinner on 1 night, plus 3 picnics
Climate: summers are long and hot, with average daily temperatures hovering around 28-30°C, but the sea breezes generally make for a cooler feel. Because of the many and high mountains, Samos has a relatively high rainfall, but rain is rare from mid-April to mid-October, and recorded hours of sunshine are some of the longest in Greece.

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Starting point: Hotel Iro (2*), Platanakia. You are warmly welcomed to this tranquil retreat by Michalis and his mother, Maria. Set just back from the beach, the hotel has a pool and simple bedrooms, most with a small balcony. You stay on a bed and breakfast basis and for dinner we recommend a couple of restaurants nearby.

Day 1: your first walk, a real classic, starts by leading to the charming village of Manolates, and from here winds through a deep, lush valley planted with thousands of terraced vines. At the bottom of the valley is a dense wood of poplars in which nightingales can sometimes be heard. You reach the sleepy hillside village of Vourliotes and can spend some time exploring the labyrinthine streets before descending back to Platanakia via several spectacular viewpoints. (14km, 4.5hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Iro, as above.

Day 2: our second route crosses the verdant lower slopes of Mount Ambelos and explores the varied landscape for which Samos has become famous. You follow age-old mule tracks passing narrow vineyards, and walk through valleys, fir-tree forests and all-but-deserted villages. Take time afterwards to relax on the pebble beach. (11km, 4hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Iro, as above.

Pretty coves, Samos

Day 3: today you are transferred to Karlovassi, a lively fishing port and the centre of life in the north of the island. It is up to you whether you wish to spend the afternoon relaxing in the town – there are various cafés as well as a long pebble beach for cooling dips – or to enjoy our suggested walk (see day 4).

Accommodation: Hotel Astir (2*), Karlovassi. Owner Theodoris extends a warm and genuine welcome to his hotel which boasts a fine swimming pool and a garden. His mother, Argyro, cooks here and we include dinner on your first night, leaving you free to take your pick of the local tavernas on your second night. The hotel is just a short stroll from the pebble beach.

Day 4: our suggested circular walk from Karlovassi takes in rugged mountains, green slopes, hidden villages and secluded bays. You ascend southwards out of Karlovassi to the mountain village of Lekka, then continue south-west to the former charcoal-burning village of Nikoloudes, where time seems to have stood still. A spectacular descent leads to the secluded Bay of Potami, from where you return to Karlovassi along the coast. There is a shorter version of the route which omits Nikoloudes but passes a working monastery if you prefer a less strenuous walk. (16km, 5.5hrs or 9km, 3.5hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Astir, as above.

Pool, Hotel Astir

Day 5: today’s walk is a real highlight, a superb coastal route west from Karlovassi with views of the glittering sea to one side and the towering Kerkis Mountains to the other. This part of the coastline is virtually uninhabited and you pass some of the island’s wildest and most beautiful bays, including that of Mikro Seitani which shelters bottle-nose dolphins and a small population of the endangered Mediterranean monk seal and rare loggerhead turtle. The sweeping bay of Megalo Seitani further along the coast is ideal for a swim before the ascent inland, away from the sea. A taxi will be waiting for you at picturesque Drakei to take you to Ormos Marathokambos on the south coast. (12km, 4.5hrs)

Accommodation: Kerkis Bay Hotel (2*), Ormos Marathokambos. Situated just behind the delightful harbour, this family-run hotel offers good standards of comfort, each room having its own small balcony. There is a taverna at the hotel, or choose to dine at one of the neighbouring ones (pay locally in both cases).

Samos' spectacular coastline

Day 6: your last, thrilling walk leads along an old trail to the sleepy village of Marathokambos, overlooking the coast. From here, you follow the contour beneath the massive limestone walls that form the southern slopes of the Kerkis range to reach Pythagoras' Cave which, according to legend, was the refuge of the Greek mathematician and philosopher. You can extend the walk by ascending part-way up the slopes of Vigla, one of the island’s highest peaks, past the monastery of Moni Evangelistria, and through increasingly Alpine scenery to a small chapel. The views across the sea towards the neighbouring islands become ever more impressive the higher you ascend. Whether you choose this option or not, the day finishes with a descent to the golden beaches at Votsalakia, from where you return to your hotel by taxi (pay locally). (12km, 4hrs)

Accommodation: Kerkis Bay Hotel, as above.

Sunset on Samos

 

Prices & travel

£ per person based
on 2 in a double rm
Air direct
(with flights)
Air via Athens
(with flights)#
Single
room
7 nights#: 10 April-15 July & 1 September-31 October 2008
10 Apr-7 May n/a 827 95
8-21 May 664 827 95
22-28 May 830 851 106
29 May-15 Jul 754 879 106
1-10 Sep 778 879 106
11-30 Sep 754 879 106
1-31 Oct 664 827 95

Air Direct includes: charter flight Gatwick-Samos (please contact us for details and timings)
Air via Athens includes: Olympic Airways Heathrow-Athens (out dep 1220/arr 1755, home dep 1330/arr 1530), Olympic Airways Athens-Samos (out dep 1225/arr 1325; home dep 1010/arr 1110)
#Air via Athens requires an overnight stay in Athens on outward journey, making it an 8-night holiday; add £29 for single room in Athens
Start:
Thu if flying direct, or any day if flying via Athens

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