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The Long Trail to Rocamadour'A beautiful romanesque corner of France'
The picturesque villages and rural landscape of this region have changed little since the end of the Hundred Years’ War in the 15th century. Your path follows the River Dordogne and its tributary, the Ouysse, through forest and gentle green hills, in the shade of soaring cliffs, amidst green copses and golden hayfields. There are no cities and there is virtually no industry – other than the production of peasant wine, walnut oil, truffles and foie gras, all of which you should be able to sample as you make your leisurely progress downriver.
Nights: 10 – there is also a shorter, 7-night walk
Starting point: The Manoir de Beaulieu (3*) This delightful riverside hotel is located in the heart of Beaulieu, a few minutes’ walk from the banks of the Dordogne. The restaurant offers regional specialties and local produce. Day 1: You cross the Dordogne via an island to begin today’s gentle walk southwards towards the Cère, one of its tributaries. Wide, often shady, paths link a succession of tiny rural hamlets, across traditional farmland and through woodland and forest. On the way you gain glorious views back and forth over the river valleys, landscape and villages. In the quiet forest, you may spot deer in a clearing. (10km, 2h30)
Accommodation: The Auberge du Vieux Port (2*) at Port de Gagnac is an attractive, family-run hotel with simple rooms and a lovely setting, facing out across the river. Delicious regional food is served in its restaurant or the covered outdoor terrace. Day 2: Today’s walk is more strenuous, with sweeping views over glorious countryside. A highlight is one of France’s most spectacular mediaeval fortified villages, the magnificent Château de Castelnau, on a promontory overlooking four valleys and three rivers. Your way takes you through meadows, between orchards and vineyards, and up steep stony paths climbing through forest. You pass the region’s cheese factory - the Fromagerie de Rocamadour - before reaching Loubressac, a tiny, fortified village perched high on the hillside, with a 15th century manor-house and lovely views back towards the Château of Castelnau, (18km, 5h30) Accommodation: The Relais de Castelnau 3*. This attractive modern hotel, built in traditional style, stands in spacious grounds with most rooms enjoying panoramic views over the Dordogne valley. There is a small outdoor pool and tennis courts. You spend two nights here.
Day 3: There are two options for your day. You could visit the vast caverns of Gouffre de Padirac, one of the most impressive cave systems in Europe, where you can take a boat on the underground river. A pleasant walk across wild and uninhabited landscape. (9km, 2.5 hrs). Alternatively, make a circular walk, descending by a dramatic route to the picturesque village of Autoire. The village has several café-restaurants to offer sustenance before you take the steep route back to Loubressac.
Accommodation: The Relais de Castelnau 3* Day 4: You start with a transfer to Carennac, another charming village perched high above the Dordogne, with immaculately restored manor houses and ornate dovecotes typical of the region, clustering round the old Cluniac priory. Today’s route follows cobbled mule tracks, footpaths and country lanes through quiet landscape, often bordered by old dry-stone walls. You can choose to extend your walk with a steep climb up the dramatic Cirque de Montvalent, a natural amphitheatre affording fine views of the valley as you ascend. (16 km, 4h30)
Accommodation: Auberge de l’Ile (2*) Creysse is another pretty village set high above the river, with an interesting church and a ruined castle. The Auberge has a homely atmosphere and rustic restaurant, and is a five-minute walk from the river, at an point ideal for swimming. There is a garden and an outdoor pool.
Day 5: The day starts with a short transfer to the pretty riverside village of Meyronne, which enjoys superb views up and down the Dordogne. From here, you have choice of routes to the south of the river - a longer walk via the attractive hamlets of Le Limon and Mayrinhac le Francal or a shorter option through woodland and farmland that leads over the panoramic Pech del Raysse. (15km, 5h30 or 9km, 3h) Accommodation: Hotel Pont de l’Ouysse (3*), Lacave. This lovely hotel sits on the banks of the River Ouysse beneath the château of Belcastel. The cuisine, aptly distinguished by a Michelin star, is outstanding, and there is plenty of space to relax, including an outdoor pool and attractive gardens.
Day 6: There are different options. If you are ready for a more restful day, there's another opportunity to visit an impressive cave system, the Lacave caverns with their underground lakes, stalactites and stalagmites. Or you could stroll to the château overlooking the confluence of the Dordogne and the Ouysse, and spend the afternoon relaxing by the hotel pool. For more walking, follow our suggested route west of Lacave, crossing the river and leading up through woodland to the top of the riverside cliff on the north bank, which you follow for some distance with fine views. (19km, 6h) Accommodation: Hotel Pont de l’Ouysse, as above.
Day 7: From Lacave, you head south along the idyllic Ouysse Valley for several kilometres. You pass many pleasant spots where you can rest by the river as well as a fortified working mill dating from the 14th century, which you can visit for a fascinating demonstration of milling. The last section takes you up through woodland away from the river and across fields to Calès. (10km, 3h30)
Accommodation: Hotel le Pagès (2*) Calès. This is an attractive, quaint village with many stone Quercy houses adorned with bright flowers. The hotel, complete with an outdoor pool, is set in large gardens on the outskirts of this authentic village. The light airy dining room is decorated in characteristic southern France colours of yellow and blue, with lime-washed beams. Day 8: Calès to Hospitalet via Rocamadour Today, you rejoin the River Ouysse and follow it eastwards, passing a watermill and several mill ponds where kingfishers can sometimes be spotted. You can take a detour past a viewpoint overlooking the Gouffre de Cabouy, where the Ouysse gushes from underground. On reaching Rocamadour, you can spend some time exploring this fascinating centre of pilgrimage, bearing in mind that you still need to make the steep climb up to Hospitalet! – thus named because it was once the site of a pilgrims’ hospital. (13km, 3h30)
Accommodation: Hotel le Troubadour and Hospitalet (2*) This small hotel is in an idyllic position in its own grounds, with wide views, a pool, prettily decorated rooms and furniture made by local craftsmen. The evening meal is served in the rustic restaurant, and features local specialities such as duck, foie gras and omelette made with cèps (mushrooms). (In July and Augut, you will dine in Rocamadour rather than at Le Troubadour.)
Day 9 You may want to spend your last day exploring the streets and historic sites of Rocamadour. Above the village itself is the ecclesiastical centre, which in turn is crowned by a castle offering a fantastic panorama. It is also worth visiting the Grottes des Merveilles near Hospitalet, where various prehistoric cave paintings have been discovered (pay locally). Alternatively. for a final satisfying walk, you can make the Circuit to the Gouffre de Cabouy or to the gorge of Alzou. (10km, 3h)
Walking chart: For an idea of the terrain, see the walking chart for the 7-night walk Similar holidays: Villages of the Dordogne (grade 1-2), Sunflowers & Abbeys (grade 1-2), A Provence Wander (grade 1-2), To the Pont du Gard (grade 1-2), Hill-Top Towns of Tuscany (grade 1-2), A Stroll through History (grade 1-2) Prices & travel 2008:
2008 extra night prices
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Recommended destination airports: Limoges & Toulouse