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A Provence Wander

The quiet side of Provence

Famed for its cicadas and cork oaks, for lavender fields and villages of red-tiled houses, it would seem that Provence was made for leisurely exploration. Its special beauty has been recognised for centuries – indeed, the Romans loved it so much they called it Provincia ('The Province'). For many, the allure extends beyond the landscapes to the cuisine, featuring local olive oil, fresh rosemary, plump red tomatoes and creamy goat's cheese, and best accompanied by the region's crisp rosé wines. This leisurely walk reveals the quiet side of Provence – the ravishing landscapes between the wooded folds of the Luberon and the rugged summit of Mount Lure. Along the way, you discover sleepy villages, gently rolling hills coated with aromatic plants, tiny chapels, lavender fields, and medieval Forcalquier whose ancient citadel stands guard over these timeless, undulating landscapes. Distances are short, leaving you plenty of time to relax and unwind at the characterful hotels. We have worked with the owners of all three for several years and they continue to earn consistently high praise for their warm hospitality and delicious Provençal cuisine.

Nights: 6
Grade: 1-2
Terrain: paths and tracks across gently rolling hills and through woodland, maquis (expanses of wild herbs and low shrubs) and lavender fields
Hotels: one chambres d'hôtes; one 2-star hotel; one 3-star hotel
Meals: dinner & breakfast each day, plus 2 picnics
Climate: summers are long and hot in Provence - the average temperature in June and September is 25°C – and spring and autumn are also warm, with temperatures averaging 21°C in May and October. To appreciate the lavender in bloom, travel in early July, though it is usually quite hot.

Forcalquier
Local handicrafts
Bastide St Georges
Rolling landscapes
Pass ancient chapels

Starting point: La Campagne Berne (chambres d'hôtes), Pierrerue. Converted from an old stone house and decorated in traditional Provençal style, this is an attractive guesthouse run by the charming Eric Delaetre and Bruno Boulanger, who go out of their way to make your stay an enjoyable one and treat you to mouth-watering regional cuisine. Perhaps the best feature is the view from the terrace – on a clear day you can see as far as the Alps as you enjoy your breakfast.

Day 1: for your first day, we suggest a walk eastwards across pastoral landscapes to the beautiful hill-top village of Lurs, which has a ruined castle and a pretty belltower and is usually visible from Pierrerue. At the village you are rewarded in good weather with views of the broad valley of the River Durance. (10km, 4hrs)

Accommodation: La Campagne Berne, as above.

Day 2: today you walk to your next destination, Forcalquier, a medieval fortified town. As the walk is not overly long, you can time it so that you arrive in the town in time for lunch, after which you can take the afternoon to explore at leisure. Stroll through the atmospheric streets and on a clear day climb to the hill-top citadel to admire the splendid panorama over the surrounding area. If your stay falls on a Monday, you can browse the stalls of the bustling weekly market. (11km, 4hrs)

Accommodation: Bastide Saint Georges (3*), Forcalquier. A superbly styled and beautifully appointed hotel 1km from the town centre. Each bedroom is individually decorated with plenty of elegant touches and boasts its own terrace overlooking the garden and the outdoor pool, which is surrounded by olive trees.

Day 3: we recommend that you spend the first part of the day exploring the area to the west of Forcalquier on a circular walk – our route skirts the lake there, leading through light woodland of oaks, as well as delightful sections of wilderness, before returning via the medieval gardens and priory church of Notre Dame de Salagon (pay locally if you choose to visit). In the afternoon, relax by the hotel pool. (12km, 4.5hrs)

Accommodation: Bastide Saint Georges, as above.

Day 4: the day begins with a transfer to the village of St Michel l'Observatoire, named after the observatory that dominates the nearby hill (the site was chosen because the skies here are some of the clearest in all of France). From here, your path crosses the Largue Valley and winds over the rolling hills to Reillanne. (12km, 4.5hrs)

Accommodation: Auberge de Reillanne (2*), Reillanne. Converted from a fortified manor house, Madame Balmand's much-loved auberge offers spacious, rustic bedrooms, good country cooking and plenty of space to sit and relax in the pleasant gardens.

Day 5: head out on a final circular walk over the ridge behind Reillanne and down panoramic paths to the romantic ruins of the 12th-century Carluc Priory, a lovely spot for a leisurely picnic. To extend the walk, you could return via the exquisite and very panoramic hill-top village of Montjustin. Alternatively, relax at the hotel with a good book. (10.5km, 3hrs or 18km, 5hrs)

Accommodation: Auberge de Reillanne, as above.

 

Walking chart: the chart gives the distance and an approximation of the ascents and descents involved each day. If comparing holidays, please note the scale of each chart as this can differ.



Recommendations for extra nights: all three hotels make a good choice for extra nights. La Campagne Berne (Pierrerue) and the Auberge de Reillanne earn particularly high praise.

Take the Train and break your journey for a night in Paris on the way, staying at one of our favourite Parisian hotels. Read about one traveller's experiences in her personal travel diary.

Extensions: If you are flying via Marseille, discover more quintessential Provencal landscapes and villages by extending your stay with 3 nights at the elegant 3* Le Calalou in Moissac-Bellevue.

Other information: if you would like to see the brochure page, you can download this (and the pages for any other holidays you are interested in) by using our brochure creation system.

Similar holidays: Sunflowers & Abbeys (grade 1-2), From the Tarn to the Aveyron (grade 1-2), To the Pont du Gard (grade 1-2), Villages of the Dordogne (grade 1-2), Paths to Rocamadour (grade 1-2), Piedmont's Hills & Vineyards (grade 1-2)

Prices & travel 2008:

£ per person based
on 2 in a double rm
Walk
price*
By
rail
Self-
drive
Single
room
6 nights: 1 April-13 July & 1 September-21 October 2008
1-30 Apr 562 775 609 160
1-23 May 572 785 619 160
24 May-30 Jun 592 806 640 170
1-13 Jul 622 837 668 198
1-30 Sep 592 806 640 170
1-21 Oct 572 785 619 160
3rd+ person saving 35 35 75  

Recommended destination airport: Marseille
Latest flight arrival time:
1600
Earliest flight departure time:
1130 (later on Sunday)
*Connecting travel:
return rail/taxi from Aix (out/home 1h10 - pay locally for airport bus Marseille-Aix 0h30) £36pp; return taxi from Marseille airport (out/home 1h25) £119pp

By rail includes:
Eurostar/TGV/regional rail via Lille & Marseille (out dep St Pancras 0853 /home dep Manosque 1101). Please note that a supplement may be payable depending on availability of seats for your chosen dates of travel and how far in advance of your departure date your holiday booking is made
Self-drive includes: P&O Ferries Dover-Calais
Extra nights can be booked at any hotel
Start:
any day
Book your flights through us and we'll find the best route, times and price to suit you

Extra night prices:

£ per person based
on 2 in a double rm
Double
room
Single
room
Forcalquier 1 Apr-30 Jun 76 123
  1-13 Jul 89 149
  1-30 Sep 76 123
Pierrerue 1 Apr-13 Jul 49 78
  1 Sep-31 Oct 49 78
Reillanne 1 Apr-13 Jul 61 61
  1 Sep-31 Oct 61 61

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