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Around the Bay of Roses

The treasures of the Catalan Coast

Discover the many treasures of the northern part of the Costa Brava - the sweeping arc of the Bay of Roses, the Greek and Roman ruins at Empúries, the Aiguamolls bird reserve, and atmospheric medieval towns and villages - on this magnificent exploration of the coast between Begur and the alluring fishing village of Cadaqués, a favourite haunt of Dalí and Picasso. One of this holiday's great features is the high quality and variety of hotels - each has its own special charm, enhanced by some truly excellent cuisine with an accent on fish, seafood and the locally grown rice.

Nights: 7
Grade: 1-2
Terrain: inland plain, wetlands, coastal paths
Hotels: four 3-star hotels; two 4-star hotels
Meals: breakfast each day, dinner on 4 nights, plus 1 picnic
Climate: this sunny Mediterranean region sees average temperatures ranging from 17°C in April to 27°C in July.

Mediterranean views

Views across the coastal plain to the hills

Sandy beaches

Aiguamolls wetlands

Cadaqués

Starting point: Hotel Rosa (3*), Begur. A charming hotel run by the welcoming Rosa Caner and her partner, Narcís, an accomplished chef. The hotel's other great feature besides its locally renowned restaurant (where you eat from the extensive à la carte menu) is the roof terrace, from which you can look across the roofs of the medieval town as you enjoy a drink.

Day 1: from Begur, you head north on wide trails through sandy pine woods and between fields to the marshy nature reserve of les Basses d'en Coll. The paddy fields and wetlands attract a wide variety of birds, particularly during the spring and autumn migrations. There are good views of the Montgrí Massif, topped by a castle, as you continue to the banks of the River Ter, which you follow towards Torroella. (12km, 5.5hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Picasso (3*), near Torroella. The accommodation here, just south of the village, is rather simple, the focal point being instead the restaurant, which specialises in seafood. The outdoor pool is another bonus.
Upgrade option: Molí del Mig (4*), Torroella. Converted from a mill on the outskirts of the village, this is a high-quality hotel with a restaurant to match. Though the building is old, the décor is modern, creating an interesting (and stylish) contrast. We recommend an extra night here so that you can walk (or cycle - the hotel hires out bikes) to the sea.

Day 2: the day starts with a transfer to the charming walled settlement of Sant Martí d'Empúries, which is well worth a visit. The real highlight, however, is the fascinating Greek and Roman ruins at nearby Empúries (pay locally). The ancient city was used by the Romans as their base for the invasion and dominance of the Iberian Peninsula. There are some excellent mosaics and other remains, most dating from 218BC onwards. From Empúries, you walk along the southernmost part of the Bay of Roses, past several beaches where you could pause for a swim, to Sant Pere Pescador. (11km, 6hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Can Ceret (3*), Sant Pere Pescador. There are just ten rooms at this delightful hotel, ensuring a very personal service. The wonderful restaurant opens out on to the patio, where you savour excellent dishes that often use the local rice as a main ingredient.

Day 3: today's walk takes you along the banks of the River Fluviá, along the beach at its mouth and then through the Aiguamolls Natural Park, dotted with hides. At any time of the year you are likely to spot birds such as ibis, herons, tufted ducks, pochards, snipes, redshanks, marsh harriers and sandpipers, but if you are lucky you can make some exciting sightings during the spring and autumn migrations: grey herons, golden plovers, flamingos, black storks and spoonbills. (12km, 4hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel de la Moneda (4*), Castelló d'Empúries. This beautifully restored 17th-century mansion is in the heart of the Jewish quarter - the bright colours are typical of this part of the town. Bedrooms are spacious and very well appointed, and there is a swimming pool, terrace and sitting room. In the evening, we recommend you dine at the neighbouring Can Canet, which specialises in fresh fish and seafood (pay locally).

Day 4: we recommend you start your day by taking a taxi to visit the Dalí Museum in nearby Figueres (pay locally) and rejoin the route further up the coast. If you prefer to walk all the way from Castelló and thus complete your discovery of the Bay of Roses, you initially head along trails past the lagoons and wetlands of the Natural Park, then along the beach and the seafront for the latter part of the day. It is worth detouring to the ancient citadel, first settled in the 6th century BC. (up to 15km, 5hrs)

Accommodation: Park Almadraba Hotel (4*), Roses. The setting of this modern hotel is spectacular, on the headland of a quiet bay outside Roses; there is direct access via a private path to the Almadraba Beach. All rooms have a balcony and sea views, and there are facilities for tennis, squash, table tennis and pétanque, plus an Olympic-sized swimming pool and a sauna.

Day 5: today's more demanding but truly magnificent route through the Cape Creus Natural Park is mostly along a splendid cliff path with wonderful views down to the glittering sea. You drop down into beautiful small coves where you can swim, then cross terraced hills to Cadaqués, with the option of walking out to remote Cape Norfeu, particularly spectacular when the sea is rough. (12km, 6hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Playa Sol (3*), Cadaqués. A well appointed beachside hotel that overlooks the bay. There is a pool, a bar, and several seating areas. The rooms are spacious, many with balconies with tables and chairs. Breakfast only is provided, leaving you free to try one of the village's seafood restaurants using our recommendations as a guide.

Day 6: on your last day, explore the cobbled streets of Cadaqués (once described by Dalí as 'the most beautiful village in the world'), and enjoy one final walk. Paths lead north via the village of Port Lligat to Dalí's house (closed Mondays until mid-April and from mid-September; pay locally) then hug the coastline, passing numerous small, sandy coves to reach the lighthouse at Cape Creus. There is an excellent bar/restaurant at the lighthouse here, where you could stop for lunch (pay locally) before retracing your steps back to the hotel. (12km, 4hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Playa Sol, as above.

Walking chart: the chart gives the distance and an approximation of the ascents and descents involved each day. If comparing holidays, please note the scale of each chart as this can differ.

Recommendations for extra nights: Hotel Molí del Mig (Torroella), from where you can walk or cycle to the sea to explore the coast further.

Extensions: add on a stay in the city from which you are flying home: in Barcelona we offer the 4-star Hotel Colón, close to the cathedral, while in Girona, historic 'city of a thousand sieges', we offer the 2-star Hotel Peninsular. Alternatively, for a two-week holiday, this route combines well with our Along the Catalan Coast walk.

Other information: if you would like to see the brochure page, you can download this (and the pages for any other holidays you are interested in) by using our brochure creation system.

Similar holidays: Along the Catalan Coast (grade 1), The Coast of Almería (grade 1-2), Collioure to Cadaqués (grade 2)

Prices & travel 2008:

Recommended destination airports: Barcelona & Girona
Latest flight arrival time: Barcelona 1830; Girona flexible
Earliest flight departure time: Barcelona 1300; Girona flexible
*Connecting travel: return taxi from Girona (out 1h/home 1h45) £100pp;
return rail/taxi from Barcelona (out 2h/home 2h40) £85pp
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Extra night prices 2008 (extra nights can be booked at any hotel):

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