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Valley of GoldJourney deep into the heart of rural Portugal
Nights: 7
Starting point: Hotel Pestana Porto (4*), Porto. Behind the handsome yellow façade of this historic building lies a stylish hotel, the friendly owners of which pride themselves on the high levels of comfort and service. We include bedrooms at the front so that you can appreciate the superb views across the River Douro to the city's famous port lodges, and provide you with recommendations to help you decide on a restaurant for dinner (pay locally). Day 1: we recommend that you start the day with a visit to one or two of the wine lodges, and can pre-book a free visit of Graham's Port Wine Lodge (available Monday to Friday from May to September), where you can learn about port production and then sample the wines. There is time afterwards to stroll through the charming old streets and narrow alleys of the Ribeira ('riverbank'), designated a Unesco World Heritage Site, before catching the afternoon or early evening train eastwards. The second part of the journey is a real highlight of the holiday, as the train makes its way along the impressively engineered railway which clings to the sliver of land between the River Douro and the steep slopes above. You alight at the riverside hamlet of Vesuvio, and are then punted across the river in a small 'ferry' - a romantic end to your first day! Accommodation: Alojamento Senhora da Ribeira (rural inn), Vesuvio. A real find with impressive views which will whet your appetite for what is to come, this simple inn enjoys a wonderfully tranquil setting close to the river. The country cooking here is a good introduction to the regional cuisine. Day 2: the day starts with a gentle 5-kilometre stroll along the willow-lined bank of the Douro. At the end of the path, a taxi will be waiting to take you to a hill-top village high above the river, some 10-15 minutes' drive away. From here you descend back to Vesuvio, first through cork woods and then along a ridge, enjoying views of the vineyards owned by the famous Quinta da Vesuvio. Collect your luggage from the Senhora da Ribeira, summon the ferryman to take you across the river again, and catch the late afternoon train downstream to the river port of Pinhão, from where you will be transported by taxi to your hotel. (11.5km, 4hrs) Accommodation: Casa de Casal de Loivos (3*), near Pinhão. Manuel, the latest generation of the Sampayo family to own the house (it has belonged to them since 1658), places great emphasis on attentive, courteous service, but the hotel's best feature is the view of the River Douro afforded by the terraces and swimming pool (it was once named one of the best in the world on a television travel programme). You dine with other guests in the formal dining room. Day 3: leaving Casal de Loivos, you head northwards along the ridge that frames the deep valley of the River Pinhão, a tributary of the Douro. You then enjoy views of both rivers as you cross vineyards dotted with quintas (wine lodges) to reach Alijó. (14km, 5hrs) Accommodation: Pousada do Barao de Forrester (4*), Alijó. Named after one of the great figures in the history of port-wine production, this is another hotel of great character and comfort, and boasts an outdoor pool. Your stay is on a bed and breakfast basis, though you can choose to dine at the pousada's excellent restaurant if you wish (pay locally). Day 4: today's walk reveals a different landscape again: one of farmland and orchards then sleepy, traditional villages. Your path descends to the River Pinhão, which you cross so as to ascend the opposite slope towards Vilarinho de São Romão. (16km, 5.5hrs) Accommodation: Casa de Vilarinho de São Romão (2*), Vilarinho de São Romão. A warm welcome from charming host Cristina Van Zeller, large comfortable bedrooms, a swimming pool and a dinner of tasty country cooking await you at this recently renovated manor house, one of the best hotels on the holiday. Day 5: your route leads via the partly abandoned village of Provesende then crosses the wilder feeling hills that separate Vilarinho de São Romão and your final destination, Chanceleiros. To avoid the ascent, we can arrange a transfer from Provesende into the hills if you wish. Whichever you decide, you will be able to look back over the landscapes you have explored over the previous few days as you descend to Chanceleiros. (16km, 6hrs without transfer, or 12km, 4.5hrs with transfer) Accommodation: Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros (3*), Chanceleiros. This lovingly restored nobleman's house is a delightful place to finish your walk - especially given the first-rate hospitality of host Ursula. The bedrooms are in separate buildings throughout the grounds and cluster around charming terraces and the swimming pool. The food here is excellent, and our arrangements include white port, wine and liqueurs. Day 6: on your last day, we suggest that you stroll down to the River Douro to contemplate its calm waters one last time. Here, you can also visit Quinta de la Rosa (guided tour included), where the grapes for their wines and ports are still trodden by foot, and then either continue into Pinhão to find a restaurant for lunch or enjoy a boat trip along the river (pay locally). The walk to Pinhão via the Quinta is 5km, and you can either retrace your steps back to Chanceleiros or, if you have bought wine at the Quinta, travel back by taxi (pay locally). Accommodation: Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros, as above. Walking chart: the chart gives the distance and an approximation of the ascents and descents involved each day. If comparing holidays, please note the scale of each chart as this can differ.
Recommendations for extra nights: Hotel Pestana Porto for more time in the intriguing city of Porto. Other information: if you would like to see the brochure page, you can download this (and the pages for any other holidays you are interested in) by using our brochure creation system. Similar holidays: Along the Tarn Valley (grade 2), The Tuscan Heartland (grade 2), Lake Iseo (grade 2), Piedmont's Hills & Vineyards (grade 1-2), Spain's Secret Sierra (grade 1-2) Prices & travel 2008:
Recommended destination airport: Porto Extra night prices 2008 (extra nights can be booked at any hotel):
> Notes on prices > Any queries? Let us call you back  |
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Perfect walking country with spectacular views, the valley of the
Rio Douro (‘river of gold’) is striking in its
tranquillity - and its rich colours. Fertile
hills neatly striped with green vines and
silver olive trees are reflected in the
mirror-like waters, as are the painted
long boats which ply the river, and the
region’s tiny, untouched villages of white
houses with red roofs. It is here, at the
quintas (wineries) dotted across the slopes, that
port wine is produced, the late-September harvest bringing a pleasant bustle to the valley, when the workers sing late into the night as they pick the grapes and tread them by foot. To set the scene, you begin with a night in
Porto, friendly capital of the port-wine trade, before
exploring the timeless landscapes where the wine
originates, thus also showing the great contrast between
the bustle of the historic sea port and the slow,
traditional ways of life upriver. It comes as a real delight to discover what wonderful walking, delicious cuisine, truly welcoming hotels and intriguing insights into rural Portugal the Douro Valley offers. 
Porto
