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Beneath Mont Lozère

The Cévennes - the secret hills of the south

CevennesUnspoiled and largely undiscovered, the Cévennes National Park is a land of rugged mountains coated in heather, gorse and open grassland that turns golden in the sun, while the slopes of the deep valleys below are cloaked with majestic chestnut woods. The region seems scarcely to have been touched by the march of time; ancient ways continue and historic buildings are preserved. Indeed, you can imagine that the wild landscapes of the Park, home to eagles and vultures, have changed little since Robert Louis Stevenson passed through on his Travels with a Donkey. By leading across the wild uplands as well as the lower valleys, our challenging but rewarding route promises very varied walking, with each season bringing its charms, be it vivid broom in spring, colourful expanses of heather in high summer or ripening chestnuts in autumn. You stay in an appealing combination of welcoming hotels and traditional guesthouses (chambres d’hôtes), with some delicious regional cuisine.

Nights: 7
Grade: 2-3
Terrain: open moorland, broad ridges
Hotels: two 2-star hotels; one 2-star chambres d’hôtes; one 3-star chambres d’hôtes; one 4-star chambres d’hôtes
Meals: dinner & breakfast each day, plus 6 picnics
Climate: this being the southern part of the Massif Central, the region enjoys a warm Mediterranean summer. June and September bring temperatures in the low twenties Celsius, increasing to the mid twenties in July and August. The autumn colours are superb.

Sunset from Toureves
Sunset from Toureves
Toureves' far-reaching views
Cevennes
Fantastic walking
The banks of the Tarn
A bridge over the infant Tarn

Starting point: Auberge la Régordane (2*), La Garde-Guérin. The attentive Nogier brothers' attractively appointed hotel has been carefully converted from one of the village houses, and retains its medieval atmosphere – some of the rooms are accessed via the spiral stone staircase. In warm weather, dinner is served in the cobbled courtyard.

Day 1: as your first walk is quite short, you may like to start the day by walking along the top of the Chassezac Gorge just to the north of the village. The walk proper descends along a cobbled drovers' trail (la régordane) to Lake Villefort, which is framed by expanses of heather and pine woods in which red squirrels commonly jump from branch to branch. Your destination is the bustling village of the same name. (10km, 3hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Balme (2*), Villefort. A traditional restaurant with rooms run by the welcoming Monsieur Gomy, who is an accomplished chef, often incorporating local chestnuts into his refined cuisine which deservedly enjoys a good reputation locally.

Day 2: today's walk – one of the best on the holiday – begins with a transfer into the mountains. You cross moorland, where cows, sheep and goats graze, passing numerous oddly shaped rocks amid the heather. For the middle part of the day, you walk along the picturesque banks of the infant Tarn which are lined with purple heather in high summer. Your path then leads through ancient beech woods and out onto the open plateau beneath the Mont Lozère massif, before rejoining the Tarn. (13km, 5hrs)

Accommodation: Le Merlet (3*chambres d’hôtes), Le Merlet. This guesthouse has been converted from a remote working farm and has won various ecological awards. Each evening guests dine together around a large oak table while Monsieur Galzin entertains everyone with anecdotes about country life.

Day 3: enjoy a walk in the heart of the Cévennes National Park. We suggest a short but very scenic walk alongside the River Tarn or a longer route through the attractive old stone village of Le Pont-de-Montvert and along part of the Stevenson Trail over open uplands and back through forest following tributaries of the Tarn for much of the way. During the summer holidays, you may see other walkers travelling with their bags strapped to the backs of donkeys, just as Robert Louis Stevenson did. (8km, 3hrs or 15km, 5.5hrs)

Accommodation: Le Merlet, as above.

Day 4: a long but rewarding walk through old hamlets, past a much-photographed farm, and down to the banks of the Alignon Stream which you follow through pleasant beech woods. The route then takes you out onto the open plateau strewn with surreal granite rock formations, over the ridge, and then steadily downhill along an ancient cobbled track to Toureves. For most of the day you enjoy huge horizons and beautiful views. (18km, 7hrs)

Accommodation: Gîte de Toureves (2* chambres d’hôtes), Toureves. Perched on the hillside, the great feature of this authentic guesthouse is the view – you can often see as far as Mont Ventoux in Provence – which is particularly special at sunrise and sunset. Dinners of home cooking are enjoyed with other guests in the dining room or around the two large tables in front of the inn in good weather.

Day 5: there are routes of varying lengths from Toureves depending on how energetic you are feeling. Our recommended options are a route which explores the slopes and woodland above Toureves, and a walk which leads via the hamlet of Vialas and over the Montclar Pass. (12km, 4.5hrs or 15km, 6.5hrs)

Accommodation: Gîte de Toureves, as above.

Day 6: you finish the week with an easy walk – a descent through attractive woodland – or you could take the slightly longer route through the pretty countryside around Montclar. On arrival in Génolhac, spend time strolling through the atmospheric medieval streets. (4km, 1.5hrs or 7km, 2.5hrs)

Accommodation: Le Temps des Cérises (4* chambres d’hôtes), Génolhac. Beautifully converted from a late 19th-century manor house on the edge of the village, this is a high-quality guesthouse. There are just five charmingly decorated bedrooms, ensuring great intimacy, and the top floor is occupied by a library that opens onto a huge roof-top terrace set with sun loungers. Below, in the large gardens, is an outdoor pool with more sun loungers. Unlike other chambres d’hôtes, you dine at your own table, enjoying the delicious local cuisine of your host, Roland Dumont.

Walking chart: the chart gives the distance and an approximation of the ascents and descents involved each day. If comparing holidays, please note the scale of each chart as this can differ.

walk chart

Recommendations for extra nights: Auberge la Régordane (La Garde-Guérin) for extra walking – take a day to explore the Chassezac Gorge just to the north of the village. Alternatively, Le Temps des Cérises (Génolhac) is a great choice for a day of relaxation at the end of your holiday.

Extensions: if you are flying via vibrant Montpellier or the Roman city of Nîmes, extend your holiday and stay for two nights at the 3-star Hotel du Midi in Montpellier, or the 3-star Hotel la Baume in Nîmes.

Take the Train and break your journey for a night in Paris on the way, staying at one of our favourite Parisian hotels. Read one traveller's experiences in her personal travel diary.

Other information: if you would like to see the brochure page, you can download this (and the pages for any other holidays you are interested in) by using our brochure creation system.

Similar holidays: The Castles of the Cathars (grade 2-3), The Grand Cerdagne (grade 2-3), Pyrenees to Atlantic (grade 2-3), The Catalan Pyrenees (grade 2-3), From the Picos to the Sea (grade 2-3), Italy's Green Heart (grade 2-3)

Prices & travel 2008:

£ per person based
on 2 in a double rm
Walk
price*
By
rail
Self-
drive
Single
room
7 nights: 10 May-30 September 2008
10-23 May 570 736 617 76
24 May-13 Jun 581 754 622 76
14-30 Jun 592 765 640 76
1 Jul-31 Aug 612 785 657 76
1-30 Sep 592 765 640 76
3rd+ person saving 60 60 110  

Recommended destination airports: Marseille, Montpellier & Nîmes
Latest flight arrival time:
Marseille 1300; Montpellier 1500; Nîmes 1400
Earliest flight departure time:
Marseille 1415; Montpellier 1300; Nîmes flexible
*Connecting travel:
return rail/taxi from Montpellier (out 2h25/home 3h) £31pp;
return rail/taxi from Marseille (out 4h/home 4h05) £16pp;
return rail/taxi from Nîmes (out 1h45/home 2h10) £60pp
Book your flights through us and we'll find the best route, times and price to suit you
By rail includes:
Eurostar/TGV/regional rail via Nîmes & either Lille or Paris (out dep St Pancras via Lille 0853, Mon-Fri, Sun, via Paris 0832, Sat home dep Genolhac 0756). Please note that a supplement may be payable depending on availability of seats for your chosen dates of travel and how far in advance of your departure date your holiday booking is made
Self-drive includes: P&O Ferries Dover-Calais
Start:
any day in July and September; Mon-Fri other dates

Extra night prices 2008 (extra nights can be booked at any hotel):

Extra nights (£ per person per night) Double
room
Single
room
La Garde-Guérin 10 May-30 Jun 46 61
  1 Jul-31 Aug 50 65
  1-30 Sep 46 61
Génolhac 10 May-30 Jun 61 86
  1 Jul-31 Aug 68 93
  1-30 Sep 61 86

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