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The Grand Cerdagne

Through the Mediterranean Pyrenees

The warm, clear light of the Mediterranean sun, the scent of herbs crushed underfoot, rare wildlife, the vast panorama of the Pyrenean chain stretching into Spain – just to stand in the Cerdagne gives a tingle of adventure. This is dynamic and individual Catalonia, straddling the border between France and Spain. Ancient village houses cluster around tiny Romanesque churches and inviting paths lead up the valleys into the high mountains and to magnificent peaks such as Puig Peric. The area is rich in wildlife, with small numbers of bears and lynxes in the most remote parts. Mammals most likely to be spotted by visitors include isards, chamois, mouflons and pine martens. Among the birds that can sometimes be seen patrolling the skies are kestrels, harriers, peregrine falcons, bearded vultures and royal eagles. This is our original walking holiday, and remains a firm favourite, offering some of the finest walking in the Pyrenean chain. The route, mostly in France, threads through Catalan villages, over passes, and in and out of Spain, with hotels in both countries.

Nights: 7
Grade: 2-3
Terrain: mountain paths, forest tracks
Hotels: one mountain inn; three 2-star hotels; three 3-star hotels;
Meals: dinner & breakfast each day, & 6 picnics
Climate: the Cerdagne is a very sunny region, enjoying 3000 hours of sunshine each year.

One of the region's many ancient churches

Eyne Valley

Santa Maria de Belloch

Cerdagne Plateau

Lake Bouillouses

Eyne Pass

Starting point: Hotel del Prado (3*), Puigcerdà. A comfortable, high-quality Spanish hotel with gardens and an outdoor pool surrounded by farmland.

Day 1: leaving Puigcerdà, you walk through meadows on the plain then follow the course of the River de Querol l'Aravo to the charming French village of Latour de Carol. Next, your route ascends into the southern flanks of Mount Carlit, providing a magnificent panorama in clear weather of the high mountains and a bird's eye view of the Cerdagne; from here, it is easier to see that the plateau was once a prehistoric lake. From the Juell Pass, you descend past a couple of small chapels to Dorres, where you can stop at the thermal baths (established some 1,500 years ago) before continuing to Villeneuve. (15km, 5.5hrs)

Accommodation: Relais de Belloch (2*), Villeneuve. A friendly and traditional mountain inn.

Day 2: you follow the Tour du Carlit route along quiet lanes and good paths northwards along the Angoustrine Valley, ascending gradually into the wild scenery surrounding the tarns of Bouillouses (2,000 metres). As it is relatively a short day, you have the choice of walking to the Spanish enclave of Llivia, with its ancient pharmacy, in the morning, before setting off along the Tour du Carlit. This option adds a further two hours to the standard route. (11km, 5hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel les Bones Hores (mountain inn), Bouillouses. The simple accommodation of this remote walkers' inn is more than compensated by the magnificent setting by Lake Bouillouses. Your host, Christian Lacoste, knows the surrounding paths well and will be happy to offer advice if you are extending your stay here.

Day 3: a fine route dotted with picturesque mountain lakes and often characterised by an abundance of mountain flora and fauna. You start by walking alongside Lake Bouillouses, perhaps at its best in the early morning, then follow streams as you begin to ascend to a tiny but extremely pretty lake framing spectacular views of the high mountains. On a clear day, you enjoy a grandstand view of the whole massif for the next section before the route starts to descend to La Llagonne through woodland and farmland. (18km, 7.5hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Corrieu (2*), La Llagonne. This former coaching inn earns consistently high praise from guests, who appreciate the warm welcome and tasty cuisine.

Day 4: today's walk leads via Mont-Louis, a historic town dominated by its fortress, and rises to the Perche Pass. As well as passing two ancient dolmens, you head through woodland, marshland and two villages: Eyne, whose viewpoint affords impressive views of the Cerdagne Plateau and the surrounding mountains, and Llo, which boasts some small thermal baths. (16km, 5.5hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Planes (2*), Saillagouse. A comfortable hotel with pool that has been run by the hospitable Planes family for four generations.

Day 5: this is one of the holiday’s most challenging days, though thoroughly rewarding and thrilling. After a transfer to a point further east on the plateau, you climb steadily through the beautiful Eyne Valley (a protected area due to its richness of wild flowers) before the path becomes steeper and winds up towards the Col de Pass at 2,683 metres. From the pass, you cross into Spain and descend gradually to Nuria, one of Catalonia’s holiest sites which attracts many Spanish day trippers. Throughout the walk, you may see isards (similar to chamois) and hear the shrill whistles of marmots. (14km, 8hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Vall de Nuria (3*), Nuria. Formerly a monastery, the hotel is smart and comfortable. As Nuria is inaccessible by car from France, you must carry overnight clothes with you.

Day 6: another long and rewarding walk that includes the highest point of the holiday, the Puigmal d’Err (2,913 metres). The route takes you through forest, then follows a stream uphill before rising more steeply to Puigmal d’Err. From there, you follow the panoramic ‘frontier’ ridge between France and Spain to La Tossa (2,662 metres) and then descend gradually through the valley of the Tossa Torrent to Valcebollère. (16km, 8hrs)

Accommodation: Auberge des Ecureuils (3*), Valcebollère. Situated at the head of a secluded valley, this atmospheric mountain hotel offers attractive accommodation, superb cuisine, and warm hospitality from Etienne and Patricia Laffitte.

Walking chart: the chart gives the distance and an approximation of the ascents and descents involved each day. If comparing holidays, please note the scale of each chart as this can differ.

Recommendations for extra nights: Les Bones Hores (Bouillouses) or Hotel Vall de Nuria for extra walking; Auberge des Ecureuils (Valcebollère) for relaxation and good food (and more walking if you wish).

Extension: if you are flying via Tolouse, extend your holiday and relax on sandy beaches by adding three nights in Collioure at the 3-star Princes de Catalogne. Collioure is the jewel of the rugged Vermeille Coast and boasts three sheltered beaches and a bustling fishing harbour.

Other information: if you would like to see the brochure page, you can download this (and the pages for any other holidays you are interested in) by using our brochure creation system.

Similar holidays: The Catalan Pyrenees (grade 2-3), Pyrenees to Atlantic (grade 2-3), The Castles of the Cathars (grade 2-3), The Chablais Alps (grade 2-3), Aravis Alps to Lake Annecy (grade 2-3), Mountains of the Auvergne (grade 3), The Bernese Oberland (grades 2 & 3), Towards the Matterhorn (grades 2 & 3)

Prices & travel 2008:

Recommended destination airports: Perpignan, Toulouse & Barcelona
Latest flight arrival time: Perpignan flexible; Toulouse 1500; Barcelona 1600
Earliest flight departure time: Perpignan flexible; Toulouse 1300, Barcelona 1230
*Connecting travel: return taxi from Perpignan (out/home 1h50) £120pp;
return rail/taxi from Toulouse (out 3h10/home 3h20) £60pp;
return rail/taxi from Barcelona (pay locally for rail tickets) (out 4h/home 4h25) £10pp
Book your flights through us and we'll find the best route, times and price to suit you
Self-drive includes: P&O Ferries Dover-Calais
Start: any day

Extra night prices 2008 (extra nights can be booked at any hotel):

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