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Catalan Castles & Coves

Medieval villages and the rugged Costa Brava

Northern Catalonia is renowned for its rugged coastline, but just as appealing are the medieval villages that crown the rolling inland hills. Often guarded by a crumbling castle, their cobbled streets of honey-coloured houses are full of history and a delight to explore. This most leisurely of walking holidays reveals both aspects of this charming corner of Catalonia, with the chance to discover the region's acclaimed gastronomy, and the wines produced by the vineyards you pass on your route. With short, gentle routes, each day promises a relaxing combination of walking, sightseeing and, towards the end of the week, time for taking it easy by the sea. The standard of accommodation is high.

Nights: 7
Grade: 1
Terrain: farm tracks and coastal paths
Hotels: one 4-star hotel; two 3-star hotels; one country house
Meals: breakfast each day, dinner on 5 nights
Climate: this sunny Mediterranean region sees average temperatures ranging from 17°C in April to 27°C in July, and is a great choice for walking in both spring and autumn.

Medieval villages

Views across the plain

Charming towns and villages

Plenty of time to explore

Rugged Costa Brava

Begur

Starting point: Castell d’Empordà (4*), Castell d’Empordà. Stylishly converted from a 14th-century fortified manor house which commands sweeping views over the surrounding countryside, this unique castle with its lavish furnishings exudes character, creating an unforgettable ambience and a sense of theatre. The superb facilities include an outdoor pool, though the hotel’s real focal point is the elegant gourmet restaurant where you can savour refined Catalan and Mediterranean dishes.

Day 1: you have three options for your day at Castell. The first is gentle stroll to the nearby town of La Bisbal, which boasts a maze of medieval streets, an 11th-century castle, a Romanesque bridge, an arcaded main street and a number of ceramics workshops. The second takes in three picturesque villages, while the third leads to the castle at Púbol, now a museum devoted to Salvador Dali and his works. On your return, relax by the outdoor pool. (4km, 1.5hrs or 16km, 5.5hrs or 14km, 4.5hrs)

Accommodation: Castell d’Empordà, as above.

Day 2: the direct route to Peratallada is short and undemanding, along farm tracks between fields of corn and sunflowers. To extend the walk, an alternative route leads via the town of La Bisbal and two pretty villages. On arrival in Peratallada, take time to explore the crumbling castle and arcaded streets lined with beautiful medieval houses of this typically Catalan walled village. (4km, 1.5hrs or 8km, 3hrs)

Accommodation: Hostal Miralluna (country house), Peratallada. Owner Nuria Martinez has taken great care when converting this attractive 17th-century country house – the bedrooms are furnished with many antiques and decorated with exquisite attention to detail, with many personal touches. The walled garden (complete with a splash pool) is very Provençal in style, with masses of herbs and lavender; the superb, individually-prepared breakfasts are served out here for most of the season. Your stay is on a bed and breakfast basis – though small, Peratallada boasts several top-class restaurants, from which you can take your pick using our recommendations as a guide.

Day 3: on your day in Peratallada, it is well worth strolling across the plain to the pretty medieval village of Ullastret, just outside which lie the remains of an Iberian (pre-Roman) settlement (closed Mondays). These have been extensively excavated, revealing the ancient street pattern and water distribution system. Alternatively, you could enjoy a circular route via attractive Palau-Sator and a couple of other small villages. (8km, 2.5hrs or 12km, 3.5hrs)

Accommodation: Hostal Miralluna, as above.

Day 4: from Peratallada, you head east across the plain, through open fields and attractive woodland. You ascend gently to medieval Pals, where you can spend some time exploring the ancient ramparts and the cobbled streets of houses built from the peach-coloured local stone. Seek out, too, the various Romanesque monuments and the viewpoint overlooking the Mediterranean, the Medes Islands and the Montgri Mountains. There are various good restaurants, making this a good point to stop for lunch. From Pals, your path descends, rising again later on to enter the Begur massif and Begur itself. (12km, 4hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Rosa (3*), Begur. Run by the hospitable Rosa Caner and her husband Narcis, this is a truly welcoming small hotel with a relaxed atmosphere. The roof-top terrace, with its views over the town’s tiled roofs, is the perfect place to relax, while the vaulted restaurant justly enjoys an enviable reputation. Here, you dine from the extensive à la carte menu.

Day 5: take some time to explore enchanting Begur and its haphazard streets, above which stand the ruins of the 11th-century castle, an excellent viewpoint – in clear weather you can see Mount Canigou in the Pyrenees. If you would like to walk some more, a path leads to the pleasant bay at Aiguafreda, where you can relax awhile and enjoy a delicious seafood lunch (pay locally) before returning to Begur via the beautiful gardens at Mas d’en Pinc. (8.5km, 2.5hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Rosa, as above.

Day 6: offering a mix of inland and coastal walking, this is a wonderful (albeit slightly more demanding) walk with which to end your holiday. You start by descending through pine-clad hills to the sandy bay at Tamariu, a lovely spot for a break. From here, you head across the rocks and along the coastal path, passing the rocky headland of La Musclera to reach the secret, idyllic bay of Cala Pedrosa. After pausing for a swim, you walk along a wooded valley away from the coast, meeting the sea once more close to Llafranc, your destination, at the San Sebastian lighthouse. This is a fine viewpoint, with spectacular views over the sea and inland to the Pyrenees on clear days. (12km, 4hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Llevant (3*), Llafranc. The focal point of this hotel is its restaurant, whose delicious fish and seafood specialities have earned it a loyal local following. The hotel is located on the seafront, just a few steps from the beach.

Walking chart: the chart gives the distance and an approximation of the ascents and descents involved each day. If comparing holidays, please note the scale of each chart as this can differ.

Recommendations for extra nights: Hotel Llevant (Llafranc) for a day of relaxation by the coast.

City add-ons: for a contrast after your walk, we recommend visiting the city from which you are flying home. Stay for 2 nights at either the 4-star Hotel Colón in Barcelona or the 2-star Hotel Peninsular in Girona.

Other information: if you would like to see the brochure page, you can download this (and the pages for any other holidays you are interested in) by using our brochure creation system.

Similar holidays: Along the Catalan Coast (grade 1), Around the Bay of Roses (grade 1-2), The Coast of Almería (grade 1-2), From the Tuscan Hills to the Sea (grade 1-2), The Granite Coast of Brittany (grade 1)

Prices & travel 2008:

Recommended destination airports: Barcelona & Girona
Latest flight arrival time: Barcelona 1830; Girona flexible
Earliest flight departure time: Barcelona 1300; Girona flexible
*Connecting travel: return taxi from Girona (out 0h45/home 1h) £74pp;
return rail/taxi from Barcelona (out 2h/home 2h45) £85pp
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Extra night prices 2008 (extra nights can be booked at any hotel):

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