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From the Tarn to the Aveyron

Landscapes reminiscent of Tuscany

Cordes, Aveyron

Between the great Gaillac vineyards close to the banks of the Tarn and the twisting gorges of the Aveyron is a timeless land of ancient villages immersed in rolling hills and vineyards. This is the Quercy Blanc (its name derives from the region's whitish soil), its alluring landscapes reminiscent of those of Tuscany. The tranquillity of the region nowadays belies a more turbulent past – the Quercy Blanc is dotted with hill-top bastides, fortified villages with tiny, arcaded squares and ordered streets, most of which were built during less peaceful eras, namely the suppression of the Cathar heresy and the Hundred Years War. To stroll through Najac or Cordes on a warm evening is to go back in time. This delightful holiday is an enchanting combination of leisurely walking, characterful accommodation (you stay in charming chambres d'hôtes and comfortable hotels offering flavoursome regional cuisine) and a spot of history.

Nights: 7
Grade: 1-2
Terrain: tracks, paths and country lanes through open, rolling farmland, vineyards and gorges
Hotels: one 3- and one 4-star chambres d’hôtes (guesthouses); three 2-star hotels
Meals: breakfast every day, dinner on 5 nights, plus 4 picnics
Climate: the Quercy Blanc enjoys a long, hot summer, when daytime temperatures typically reach 27°C, and a warm spring and autumn.

Picturesque villages
Local markets
Walk past vineyards
Wide-open views
Timeless scenery
Najac
Najac's castle

Starting point: La Croix du Sud (3* chambres d’hôtes), Castelnau-de-Montmiral. Set at the foot of the hill on which Castelnau stands, this is a charming and very attractive chambres d’hôtes converted from an old stone house with an outdoor pool. Your amiable host, Catherine Sordoillet, only provides breakfasts, so we include taxis to and from the centre of the village so that you can take your pick of the restaurants for dinner (pay locally).

Day 1: you start by ascending to Castelnau-de-Montmirail, an attractive bastide village which you have time to explore. From the village, you follow paths and tracks through open, rolling countryside of farmland and vineyards, with fine views back to Castelnau in clear weather from numerous points along the circuit. (12km, 4hrs)

Accommodation: La Croix du Sud, as above.

Day 2: this is a long but easy walk along quiet country lanes and paths through the hills of the Quercy Blanc, fields of cereals and the first Gaillac vineyards. The open countryside provides panoramic views throughout the day, and you also have the chance to visit the bastide village of Cahuzac. (15km, 5hrs)

Accommodation: Les Vents Bleus (4* chambres d’hôtes), Donnazac. Run by the charming Monsieur and Madame Gropallo and beautifully appointed throughout, this is a truly delightful place, and justly receives high praise. It has an outdoor pool, and bicycles are available for hire. Dinner is a four-course set meal.

Day 3: again you walk through vineyards and across open hills. The route is dotted with ancient fortified manor houses and typical dovecotes. As it is located on a large hill, the Puech de Mordagne, you begin to get good views of your destination, medieval Cordes, from quite some distance away. There is plenty of time in the afternoon to explore the town’s pretty church and cobbled streets lined with old merchants' houses and and to browse the numerous craft shops. (12km, 4hrs)

Accommodation: Hostellerie du Parc (2*), Cordes. Set on the edge of Cordes, with simple rooms, the emphasis here is on the restaurant.

Day 4: the walk has more ascents and descents than previous days and starts with a wide loop around Cordes, giving you different perspectives of the town. You then pass from crest to crest, leaving behind the last of the vineyards to enter the more rugged landscapes of the Aveyron Valley, dotted with isolated farms. (13km, 4hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel les Deux Rivières (2*), Laguépie. This is a simple, unpretentious hotel that nevertheless serves very good food.

Day 5: this very pleasant route follows the pretty River Aveyron. During the first part of the day, you pass through wild gorges, which at times are quite narrow. The scenery then softens, and you have a long section along the riverbank on a path shaded by oak and chestnut trees and dotted with water mills. Leaving the river, you ascend to the plateau, from which there are good views of Najac and its castle, before descending once more to the river for the final steady ascent into Najac and to the ancient castle. (13km, 4.5hrs)

Accommodation: Oustal del Barry (2*), Najac. This highly praised hotel is the ideal conclusion to the walk. The locally renowned restaurant serves imaginative cuisine, while the well-equipped bedrooms look out over the village and the castle, or to the Aveyron Gorges.

Day 6: spend the day exploring Najac, with its 13th-century castle and cobbled streets, relaxing with a drink in one of the village cafés. Alternatively, an 8-kilometre circuit leads through the countryside round Najac, or you could even take the train to Villefranche-de-Rouergue, another bastide village (pay locally).

Accommodation: Oustal del Barry, as above.

Walking chart: the chart gives the distance and an approximation of the ascents and descents involved each day. If comparing holidays, please note the scale of each chart as this can differ.



Recommendations for extra nights: Les Vents Bleus (Donnazac) is the perfect setting for a day of complete relaxation by the pool. Alternatively, l'Oustal del Barry (Najac) is a good choice if you wish to spend more time walking or sightseeing.

Take the Train and break your journey for a night in Paris on the way, staying at one of our favourite Parisian hotels. Read what one traveller has to say in her personal travel diary.

Extension: if you are flying via Tolouse, extend your holiday by adding 3 nights in Boisset at the 3-star Auberge de Concasty. There is much to see in this little-known region - castles, dramatic gorges - and touring by car is a delight.

Other information: if you would like to see the brochure page, you can download this (and the pages for any other holidays you are interested in) by using our brochure creation system. You can also read our website travel diary for a personal account of the holiday.

Similar holidays: Sunflowers & Abbeys (grade 1-2), Villages of the Dordogne (grade 1-2), Paths to Rocamadour (grade 1-2), A Provence Wander (grade 1-2), To the Pont du Gard (grade 1-2), Along the Tarn Valley (grade 2)

Prices & travel 2008:

£ per person based
on 2 in a double rm
Walk
price*
By
rail
Self-
drive
Single
room
7 nights: 1 April-12 July & 1 September-31 October 2008
1 Apr-23 May 604 757 650 154
24 May-16 Jun 622 782 674 160
17 Jun-12 Jul 649 803 697 160
1-30 Sep 649 803 697 160
1-31 Oct 614 767 662 154
3rd+ person saving 55 35 95  

Recommended destination airports: Toulouse & Rodez
Latest flight arrival time:
Toulouse 1600; Rodez 1630
Earliest flight departure time:
Toulouse 1330; Rodez 1600
*Connecting travel:
return rail/taxi from Toulouse (out 1h10/home 1h45) £10pp; return rail/taxi from Rodez (out 1h50/home 2h50) £10pp
Book your flights through us and we'll find the best route, times and price to suit you
By rail includes:
Eurostar/TGV/regional rail via Paris & Toulouse (out dep St Pancras 0925, 0621 on Saturdays / home dep Najac 0905). Please note that a supplement may be payable depending on availability of seats for your chosen dates of travel and how far in advance of your departure date your holiday booking is made
Self-drive includes: P&O Ferries Dover-Calais
Start: any day 16 Jun-13 Sep; Sat-Wed all other dates

Extra night prices 2008 (extra nights can be booked at any hotel):

Extra nights (£ per person per night) Double
room
Single
room
Castelnau-de-Montmirail (B&B)* All dates 38 59
Donnazac All dates 65 107
Najac 1 Apr-15 Jun 70 83
  16 Jun-12 Jul; 1-15 Sep 75 88
  16 Sep-31 Oct 70 83

*includes restaurant transfer

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