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Pyrenees to Atlantic

Green mountains, white villages

These green mountains, the last rugged peaks of the chain before it disappears into the waves of the Gulf of Gascony, are a joy to discover. They provide an impressive backdrop to one of Europe’s most traditional, and most beautiful, regions, where peaceful villages nestle in verdant, rich valleys. This splendid walk takes you from the heart of the Atlantic Pyrenees along fine footpaths close to the border to your final destination on the Spanish coast. You will discover the unique landscape and rich culture of the region, passing through picturesque whitewashed villages where the Basque language, the oldest in Europe, is commonly spoken and traditions still hold firm, and where the national game, pelote, a blend of squash and tennis, is played. The local cuisine, too, is distinctive – try poulet à la basquaise, chicken in a spicy sauce of tomatoes and peppers. Other specialities include the brebis mountain cheese, served in the traditional manner with a black cherry conserve.

This is one of our more challenging French walks, with some fine ascents and descents each day which are rewarded with magnificent views and, if you are lucky, sightings of birds of prey. This part of the Pyrenees is an important migration route for millions of raptors and other birds as they fly north in spring for the northern summer and south in autumn for the winter. The autumn migrations start in mid-August, beginning with black kites and honey buzzards, followed by black storks, ospreys, hobbys and marsh harriers in September, then red kites, buzzards and sparrow hawks in October.

Nights: 7
Grade: 2-3
Terrain: trails along broad ridges and across grazing land
Hotels: one country inn; three 2-star hotels; three 3-star hotels
Meals: breakfast every day, dinner on 6 nights, 6 picnics
Climate: expect temperatures in the low twenties Celsius for most of the season, though mountain breezes can make it feel cooler.

Wild flowers

Half-timbered houses

Itxassou

Hotel Arraya's terrace

Local delicacies

Starting point: Hotel Manechenea (country inn), St Etienne. Rooms here are simple, but Madame Incaurgarat's warm welcome and the locally renowned country cuisine more than compensate.

Day 1: the walk starts with a strenuous ascent first through woodland then through open grazing land to the Harietta Pass on the border with Spain, where you are rewarded in good weather with superb views of the Pyrenean chain, and possibly the sighting of a griffon vulture. You then follow the ridge, descending gradually through more pastureland to Bidarray. (14.5km, 5.5hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Noblia (2*), Bidarray. This simple, family-run village inn is close to the Pont d'Enfer ('Bridge of Hell') named so because the water is so turbulent at that point.

Day 2: you ascend towards the Spanish border once more and on to the summit of Mount Artzamendi (926 metres), from where, on a clear day, you have views of the High Pyrenees behind you and the Atlantic ahead of you. You then descend through grazing land and expanses of bracken to the River Nive, which you follow to Itxassou, passing the Pas de Roland, a hole in the rock which, according to legend, was cut by Roland to let the Charlemagne army pass through. (16.5km, 6.5hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel du Fronton (2*), Itxassou. Enjoy a warm welcome and good Basque cuisine in a lovely village setting.

Day 3: the route leads uphill through pasture land, passing under the Pic de Mondarrain (749 metres). On a clear day there are good views as you descend of the whitewashed villages on the plain below, with the Atlantic beyond. (13km, 5hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Argi Eder (3*), Ainhoa. Ainhoa is considered the prettiest of the Basque villages, its streets lined with whitewashed houses with red or green shutters. This comfortable hotel enjoys good views of the hills from its position on the edge of the village. There is an outdoor pool and an excellent restaurant.

Day 4: this is a gentler walk, with fewer ascents and descents than previous days. You follow tracks and country lanes alongside a series of streams, ascending gently to a low ridge which you follow along the Franco-Spanish border, passing a couple of tiny hamlets, before descending into Sare. (14km, 3hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Arraya (3*), Sare. This centuries-old inn is beautifully appointed and very comfortable, with a smart and justifiably popular restaurant.

Day 5: you walk to the station and from here take the cog railway (pay locally) to the summit of La Rhune (900 metres), which in good weather affords views of the Bay of Biscay, the forests of Les Landes, and the Pyrenean chain. From the summit, you walk into Spain, crossing the Ibardin Pass back into France for a series of ascents and descents as you walk from pass to pass to Biriatou, just a couple of miles from the coast. (17km, 6hrs)

Accommodation: Les Jardins de Bakea (3*), Biriatou. Monsieur and Madame Duval are attentive and friendly hosts, and Monsieur Duval is an accomplished chef, too. In warm weather, savour his delicious creations on the terrace, with views across the valley into Spain.

Day 6: your last day is easy, through markedly different scenery. A taxi collects you from the hotel for the short journey across the border to the panoramic Chapel of Our Lady of Guadalupe, which perches on a hill overlooking the Atlantic. From here, a scenic path descends towards the coast and follows the peninsula round to the Spanish port of Hondarribia with its walled old town and typical Basque houses. (7km, 2.5hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Obispo (2*), Hondarribia. Converted from a beautiful stone house dating from the 15th century, this is a very characterful hotel in the heart of the walled old town. Your stay is on a bed and breakfast basis, leaving you free to sample one of the many restaurants and tapas bars around the port. To make your final night extra special, we highly recommend upgrading to one of the spacious superior rooms, which enjoy views back to France.

Walking chart: the chart gives the distance and an approximation of the ascents and descents involved each day. If comparing holidays, please note the scale of each chart as this can differ.

Recommendations for extra nights: if you prefer not to start your holiday with a strenuous walk, you may wish to add an extra night at the Manechenea (St Etienne) so that you can warm up with a gentle circular walk. For extra walking (or a rest after two full days' walking), choose Itxassou or, for a change from walking, choose the Obispo (Hondarribia) - buses operate along the coast to the elegant town of San Sebastián.

City add-on: if you are flying via Bordeaux, consider staying at the elegant 3-star Bayonne Etche-ona in Bordeaux and explore this city whose history has always been inextricably linked to the wine trade.

Other information: if you would like to see the brochure page, you can download this (and the pages for any other holidays you are interested in) by using our brochure creation system. You can also read our special feature about the holiday.

Similar holidays: The Grand Cerdagne (grade 2-3), Castles of the Cathars (grade 2-3), The Secret Apennines (grade 2-3), Italy's Green Heart (grade 2-3), Mountains & Coast (grade 2-3)

Prices & travel 2008:

Recommended destination airports: Biarritz & Bordeaux
Latest flight arrival time: Biarritz flexible; Bordeaux 1430
Earliest flight departure time: Biarritz flexible; Bordeaux 1300
*Connecting travel: return taxi from Biarritz (out 1h/home 0h30) £14pp;
return rail/taxi from Bordeaux (out 2h30/home 2h50) £53pp
Book your flights through us and we'll find the best route, times and price to suit you
By rail includes: Eurostar/TGV/regional rail via Lille & Bordeaux (out dep St. Pancras 0853/home dep Hendaye 0756). Please note that a supplement may be payable depending on availability of seats for your chosen dates of travel and how far in advance of your departure date your holiday booking is made
Self-drive includes: P&O Ferries Dover-Calais
Start: varies according to month of travel - please contact us for details

Extra night prices 2008 (extra nights can be booked at any hotel):

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