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The Valleys of Las AlpujarrasThe southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada
Framed to the north by the mighty peaks of the Sierra Nevada, mainland Spain’s highest mountains, the fertile valleys and dramatic gorges of the Alpujarras are a world apart from the Mediterranean coast thirty kilometres to the south. Seemingly untouched by the passage of time, this ancient province was the last stronghold of the Moors, whose intricate irrigation and terracing systems still shape the land to this day. Complemented by the distinct character of the region (which extends to the architecture and even the chimneys), the variety of the scenery is astonishing (so much so that you never know what lies around the next bend), ranging from steep-sided gorges to orange groves, and from bubbling streams to Mediterranean landscapes dotted with cacti.
To walk in these timeless landscapes is a joy, and our much-praised route, which follows parts of the trans-European long-distance GR7 path from Athens to Tarifa, reveals the different scenery, including the dramatic Poqueira Gorge, which reaches deep into the mountains, and two other incredible gorges. The views in clear weather of the Sierra Nevada are inspirational, and are particularly dramatic in spring, when the snow-capped peaks contrast with the colourful flowers under your feet. You stay in whitewashed villages at traditional inns; in this sunny, little-known corner of Andalucia, visitors receive a warm and genuine welcome. Nights: 7 or 10 Starting point: Hotel Finca los Llanos (3*), Capileira. This family-run rural hotel has a pool (usually available May to October), restaurant and walnut-lined terraces which afford magnificent views of the dramatic Poqueira Gorge.
Day 1: your first day’s walk explores the lower end of the deeply-cut Poqueira Gorge, and you follow ancient mule trails as they criss-cross the river on pretty stone bridges and climb up the western ridges to look over the badlands of the south and the main Trevélez Valley. You can easily shorten the route or extend it by detouring to the Buddhist retreat of O-Sel-Ling. (16km, 6hrs or 11km, 4.5hrs or 18km, 6.5hrs) Accommodation: Hotel Finca los Llanos, as above. Day 2: today your route once again explores the cool depths of the gorge - this time the middle section of the valley with its little stone bridges and abandoned farms - then ascends the opposite slope, which is more Mediterranean in character, for marvellous views of the gorge and of the peaks of the Sierra Nevada. You cross a pine-clad ridge into the neighbouring Trevélez Valley, passing through typical Alpujarran hamlets to reach Pitres. (14km, 5.5hrs)
Accommodation: Hotel San Roque (2*), Pitres. This is a small, traditional-style hotel with plenty of character, a very friendly, relaxed atmosphere, a cosy bar and tasty home cooking. Day 3: our suggested circular walk from Pitres takes in five tiny villages of the Taja, a lush, bowl-shaped valley dotted with springs. The route crosses ancient terraces, passing old threshing floors and ruined mills, then descends to an abandoned mill on the banks of the River Trevélez. From here, you walk along the valley before rising steadily to Pitres. To extend the walk, you can cross the river and ascend the river cliff via a stairway-like mule track. Though the ascent is steep, your efforts are rewarded with a new perspective of the Sierra Nevada and sweeping views of the Taja. (9km, 4hrs or 15km, 6.5hrs)
Accommodation: Hotel San Roque, as above. Day 4: today’s walk takes you above Pitres and through the pretty village of Pórtugos, from where you skirt the entire length of the deep Trevélez Gorge along a beautiful high, wooded path. Your destination is Trevélez, Spain’s highest village, located on the slopes of Mulhacén (at 3,482 metres this is mainland Spain's highest mountain) and famed for its air-cured ham. (15km, 5.5hrs) Accommodation: Hotel Fragua (rural inn), Trevélez. Converted from two village houses, this simple but friendly inn offers a good restaurant that is popular with locals, as well as sweeping views over the village from its roof terrace. Day 5: from Trevélez, another high, panoramic path takes you around the wooded shoulder of the ridge that towers over the eastern side of the Trevélez Gorge. It then rises and falls through undulating farmland to descend on the other side into the village of Bérchules. (16km, 6hrs)
Accommodation: Hotel los Bérchules (2*), Bérchules. This is a simple but cosy hotel with a small pine-clad bar-cum-lounge, traditionally furnished bedrooms and a pleasant garden complete with a pool and terrace. The helpful and friendly British owner, Wendy Gibson, is a keen walker and knows her adopted land and its paths well. Day 6: there are three options for your day in Bérchules. The first two are circular - choose a superb but relatively strenuous 12-kilometre/5-hour route that crosses the flanks of the Cerro Gordo (2,044 metres), rewarding you with thrilling views, or an easier 10-kilometre/4-hour walk along the pretty banks of the Río Grande to a perfect picnic spot by an abandoned mill at the Junto de los Ríos ('The Meeting of the Rivers'). The third (12km/5hrs) is linear and incredibly varied, taking in a superb viewpoint over another river gorge before continuing through cultivated land watered by means of cleverly engineered conduits. Suddenly, the landscape becomes more Mediterranean, with agave and cacti, and you pass Montenegro, once the property of Aben Aboo, Spain’s last Moorish king. Finally, you cross a grey and pink rocky landscape to reach Yegen, the village immortalised in the works of British writer Gerald Brenan who lived there in the 1920s, which you have time to explore before taking a taxi back to Bérchules (pay locally).
Accommodation: Hotel los Bérchules, as above. Extension: to make a 10-night holiday in this veritable walkers' paradise, stay three nights in the village of Mairena. You are transferred from Bérchules to a choice of points, and then walk eastwards to Mairena, where you stay at Las Chimeneas.
This beautifully appointed rural hotel boasts an outdoor pool and is run by a very attentive British couple, Emma and David Illsley, who are keen walkers themselves with unrivalled knowledge of the area. You can either explore the many surrounding paths independently or we can pre-book a guided walk with your hosts at altitudes of over 2,000 metres (£86 per party). Dinner with your hosts and other guests is included each night, as are 2 picnics.
Walking chart: the chart gives the distance and an approximation of the ascents and descents involved each day. If comparing holidays, please note the scale of each chart as this can differ. Recommendations for extra nights: the Hotel los Bérchules makes a great choice for extra nights and is particularly good for extra walking. City add-on: if you are flying via Granada, extend your stay with 2 nights at the beautifully appointed 3-star Casa Morisca. Other information: if you would like to see the brochure page, you can download this (and the pages for any other holidays you are interested in) by using our brochure creation system. Similar holidays: White Towns & Rugged Mountains (grade 2-3), Mountains of the Three Kings (grades 2 & 3), Pyrenees to the Garrotxa (grade 2), Pyrenees to the Sea (grade 2), Valley of Gold (grade 2), The Mountains of Sicily (grade 2), Hill-Top Villages of the Luberon (grade 2) Prices & travel 2008:
Recommended destination airports: Granada & Malaga Extra night prices 2008 (extra nights can be booked at any hotel):
> Notes on prices > Any queries? Let us call you back > Booking form (if you wish to add the Mairena extension, remember to state this in step 1)  |
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Capileira
