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The Coast of Almería

Where the desert meets the sea

Bare hills descend to virgin beaches

One of the Mediterranean's final unspoiled regions, the Cabo de Gata (Cape Gata) Natural Park in the Andalucian province of Almería basks in the hot sun, its landscapes reminiscent more of North Africa than of Europe. Here, bare, reddish hills dotted with small oases descend to a spectacular coastline of cliffs, sand dunes, salt flats, wild bays, whitewashed fishing villages and virgin beaches.

Over much of the area vegetation is sparse, consisting mainly of clumps of sisal, esparto grass, dwarf fan palms and the cactus-like Agave Americana, making the small oases appear all the more striking. The Park, much of which is only accessible on foot, shelters numerous species of bird, among them Bonelli's eagles, storks, crested hoopoes, avocets and many other types of wader. Along the coast, gannets, puffins and razorbills are common, while the salt flats attract large numbers of flamingos. The walking is leisurely, allowing lots of opportunities to cool off with a swim in the clear blue waters.

Sand dunes near San José

Nights: 6
Grade: 1-2
Terrain: cliff-tops, small coves, inland hills
Hotels: one 2-star hotel; one 3-star hotel; one 4-star hotel
Meals: breakfast each day, dinner on 4 nights, plus 2 picnics
Climate: this sunny southern region enjoys long, hot summers and mild winters, making for a long walking season. Even the sea temperature, the warmest of mainland Spain, remains pleasantly warm, with an average of 18°C. (But note that hotel swimming pools are not open all year.) The Cabo de Gata Natural Park is the driest place in Europe, with 3,000 hours of sunshine and never more than 30 days of rain each year. The table below gives the average minimum and maximum temperatures (in ºC) for the region.

Starting point: Hotel Bitácora (3*), near Las Negras. This recently built hotel offers an outdoor pool and stylish accommodation in seven spacious apartments that comprise a bedroom, a living room and a balcony affording superb views over the village of Las Negras to the Mediterranean beyond. You dine in the hotel restaurant, the vistas over the sea whetting your appetite for what is to come over the course of your holiday.

Day 1: a scenic cliff-top walk takes you to a delightfully secluded cove, before turning inland to follow the old muleteers' route back to Las Negras. (11km, 4hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Bitácora, as above.

Enjoy near-deserted beaches

Day 2: a short, easy walk leads along the coast past the castles at Playazo and Rodalquilar, leaving you the afternoon free to visit Rodalquilar's abandoned gold mine and fascinating miners' settlement - now something of a ghost town - or to relax by the pool. Alternatively, you can extend the walk by ascending gently to an 18th-century watchtower, from where you enjoy breathtaking views along the coast in clear weather, and descending to a secluded pebbly cove whose waters invite you to swim. (6km, 2.5hrs)

Accommodation: Jardín de los Sueños (2*), Rodalquilar. Set amid palm trees and olive groves, against a backdrop of reddish hills, the hotel's name aptly means the 'Garden of Dreams'. The comfortable rooms are converted from various farm buildings (junior suites and suites are available if you wish to upgrade), and there is a panoramic pool. You dine at one of the restaurants in the village (pay locally).

Golden grassland and rugged hills near Rodalquilar

Day 3: our suggested walk from Rodalquilar heads through Arizona-like landscapes dotted with cactus-like Agaves Americanas, taking in Cortijo el Fraile, scene of the tragic real-life events that inspired Lorca's Blood Wedding. (17km, 6.5hrs)

Accommodation: Jardín de los Sueños, as above.

Day 4: another relatively long but easy day. The route stays close to the coast, passing some fine viewpoints, the picturesque Cala de los Toros cove and the 18th-century fort of San Felipe. For the last part of the walk you follow a wide track that passes beneath El Fraile, at 493 metres the highest peak in the Cabo de Gata Natural Park. (16km, 5.5hrs)

Accommodation: Cortijo el Sotillo (4*), near San José. Converted from an 18th-century hacienda (country estate) just outside San José, this elegant hotel is decorated in traditional Andalucian style, and each room has its own terrace opening onto the gardens. There is much to do here, with a heated outdoor pool, tennis court, stables and facilities for archery.

Monsul Beach

Day 5: your final walk starts by winding inland through a quiet cultivated valley before turning back towards the coast. You then walk back to San José via the beautiful beaches of Mónsul and Los Genoveses. With its strange volcanic rock formations and massive, wind-rippled sand-dunes, the former was the setting of the film Lawrence of Arabia. (14km, 5hrs)

Accommodation: Cortijo el Sotillo, as above.

Walking chart: the chart gives the distance and an approximation of the ascents and descents involved each day. If comparing holidays, please note the scale of each chart as this can differ.

Recommendations for extra nights: Cortijo el Sotillo (San José) for a day of relaxation on the beach. Alternatively, you could add on a stay in Granada, city of the Moors.

Other information: if you would like to see the brochure page, you can download this (and the pages for any other holidays you are interested in) by using our brochure creation system.

Similar holidays: Silent Coves & Hidden Valleys (stay 7 nights in Las Negras with a hire car and walking routes provided), Secret Algarve (grade 2)

Prices & travel

Room upgrades: Rodalquilar, smaller suite £11pp/n, large suite £22pp/n

Recommended destination airport: Almería
Latest flight arrival time: flexible
Earliest flight departure time: flexible
*Connecting travel: return taxi from Almería airport (out 1h/home 0h35) £56pp
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Extra night prices 2008/2009 (extra nights can be booked at any hotel):

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