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Cyprus’ Scented SlopesBy Gill Smith The following morning started with a 15-minute transfer, after which we struck out along a trail that wound in and out of pine woods, affording good views of Cyprus’ two highest peaks, Mount Olympus and Mount Adelphi, as we ascended. Our immediate target was the Madari Ridge, the highest ridge on the island, where, apparently, it is not uncommon to see mouflon. Though we kept our eyes peeled as we walked along it, we saw no sign of them other than some old footprints, but it didn’t matter as we were distracted by the alpine flowers such as delicate colchicum, not to mention the views. It was a wonderfully clear day, so the sea was visible in both directions. So clear was it, in fact, that to the north we could see not only the sea but the Turkish mainland beyond that. We returned to the Rodon feeling pleasantly satisfied. Our destination was the Pendeli Hotel. It is simpler than the Hotel Rodon, but very pleasant all the same and Emily, the owner, proved most helpful, lending us wildlife books so that we could identify some of the birds and flowers we had seen. She also knows the local paths well, and will be happy to suggest further walks if you are spending an extra night here, something I’d recommend. To show you two very different parts of the island, the second half of the holiday explores the Akamas Peninsula, so from Lofou we were taken by taxi towards Cyprus’ north-western tip. From here, our path contoured the hills, passing through abandoned hamlets, the last one of which was inhabited by large numbers of goats which munched nonchalantly on tufts of grass. We passed through olive groves then headed through a sort of gorge which is famous for its spectacular displays of spring flowers. Next was an ascent up a steep limestone ridge riddled with caves inhabited by yet more goats, followed by a descent through stands of gnarled carob trees into Neo Chorio. Our hotel in Neo Chorio was the Tavros, whose two-room, apartment-style rooms are set around a large outdoor pool. There is no restaurant, so we strolled to the main street, just over five minutes’ walk away, where there are two or three tavernas from which to choose. We noticed a clear difference in the menus here: while those of restaurants in the mountains are dominated by dishes of grilled pork, lamb and goat, these ones reflected our proximity to the coast by featuring a wide variety of fish and seafood too. Our last day’s walk took us up into a forest and down a steep, rocky trail towards the coast, passing the site of a medieval monastery. Huge trees towered above us as we approached the Baths of Aphrodite, a natural spring where it is said that Akamas, one of the sons of the Greek hero Theseus, surprised Aphrodite as she bathed and fell in love with her. Admittedly, the baths are rather touristy, but the plus point is that there is a restaurant nearby to cater for the visitors and, feeling ready for lunch, we took full advantage, celebrating the end of a marvellous week of walking with a delicious fish metzi washed down with a beer or three. Other Travel DiariesTo read about the experiences of other members of staff on their Inntravel holidays, visit our travel diaries archive.  |
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I’d heard from other colleagues that one of the most striking aspects of a visit to Cyprus is the warmth and openness of the people you meet, so I was half expecting the effusive welcome I received from Lefkos, owner of the Hotel Rodon in Agros, the starting point of the 
Our next walk started by exploring rocky terrain similar to that of the previous day’s route, so it came as a great contrast on the second leg of the walk to descend into a steep-sided and surprisingly lush valley. It owes its rich flora to the Kryos Potamos (‘Cold River’), one of only two rivers on Cyprus never to dry up. The path that winds alongside it beneath the oaks, planes and alders is a nature trail, with regular posts in Greek, English and Latin identifying various plants and rocks of interest. We saw numerous small trout darting through the water as we crossed and re-crossed the river on the smooth stepping stones, and also saw myrtle and various butterflies. The constant sound of the water was wonderfully restful, especially as we approached the 15-metre-high Caledonian Falls. At the bottom of the valley was another fantastic surprise: a trout farm with a restaurant. It was too tempting to resist, so we headed in, ordering grilled trout that was served with no accompaniment other than a salad and a sprinkling of finely chopped parsley (and a beer!). It was delicious.
A long but varied route of some 18 kilometres awaited us the next day. We started by heading downhill through forest, then rose up through vineyards and orchards to a limestone ridge that must be carpeted with flowers in spring. The descent through more vineyards and orchards brought us to Omodos, a sleepy wine-making village with an open, cobbled market place lined with stalls and old ladies embroidering under the mulberry trees. Besides its wines, the village is famous for its monastery, particularly the wood-panelled cloister, but we didn’t visit, instead preferring to stop at an excellent taverna for an authentic lunch and a cold beer before embarking on the next ascent, which was rewarded by arrival at a frescoed Byzantine chapel. Another descent brought us to another chapel, this time a much older one built into the rock near a huge, centuries-old plane tree. At the junction just beyond it, we sought reassurance from a farmer in a neighbouring orchard that we were taking the right track, and not only did he confirm that our instincts were correct, but he also proffered two shiny apples to help us on our way. Still marvelling at how right my colleagues had been about the generosity of absolutely everyone we had encountered so far – hoteliers, shopkeepers, villagers, farmers – we followed the path uphill once again, to the third of four ridges we were to traverse that day. The views from all of them of the Troodos Mountains were fabulous, more than compensating our efforts.
Our destination that day was Lofou and the agrovino of the same name, which owner Costas lovingly converted from a traditional village house to create rustic accommodation with features such as exposed stonework and beamed ceilings to lend it character. Dinner is included at the neighbouring taverna with its stone-flagged floor and arched ceiling, where we enjoyed a fantastic (and, we thought, well deserved!) meal of meats cooked on a big charcoal grill accompanied by fresh salads and plentiful wine.
With two nights in Neo Chorio, we had a full day to enjoy a circular walk. It proved a great introduction to the Akamas Peninsula (and its many flowers) as it led right round the peninsula’s perimeter, affording impressive sea views as it wound through a mixture of scrub and forest. There are no villages and no cars, just quite a few other walkers – the peninsula is well known as a walking area and boasts a wealth of trails, so we encountered more walkers than we had done in the Troodos, where I have to say that I had enjoyed the silence.