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A Walk in the Atlantic Pyrenees
Rewarding walking, superb views, rare wildlife, welcoming auberges – our Pyrenees to Atlantic walk offers all this and more. Stephan Bosc, head of Inntravel’s French operations, is lucky enough to have walked virtually all our French itineraries and is constantly researching new ones, yet the Atlantic Pyrenees walk still remains his favourite because of the variety of the landscapes, the wide-open spaces, the region’s timeless quality and the warmth of the people. The route is graded 2-3, and takes you from the heart of the Atlantic Pyrenees along fine footpaths close to the Spanish border to your final destination, Hondarribia, a bustling Spanish port. Days are long and satisfying, with daily ascents and descents. The mountains of this part of the Pyrenean chain are greener than the rest, and picturesque villages of whitewashed houses nestle in the lush valleys. As you journey through the region, you gain an insight into the Basque Country’s unique culture. Seemingly every village has a court for pelote, a blend of squash and tennis, people commonly speak Basque between themselves, and the shutters of the houses are usually painted either green or red, the colours of the flag.
You start at the Hotel Manechenea, quietly situated a mile or two from the village of St-Etienne-de-Baïgorry. Though a simple inn, the welcome from Madame Incaurgarat is warm and genuine, and the excellent restaurant has earned a loyal local following. On one visit here, as Stephan sat eating pipérade, a local dish, followed by a delicious black-cherry tart, he was regaled with an impromptu session of harmonies from the local men who occasionally meet here at lunchtimes. St-Etienne-de-Baïgorry to BidarrayThe walk starts with a strenuous ascent first through woodland then through open grazing land to the Harietta Pass on the border with Spain. It is worth stopping for a rest here – the views of the Pyrenean chain are superb, and you may spot griffon vultures. You then follow the ridge, descending gradually through more pastureland to Bidarray. (14.5km, 5.5hrs) At Bidarray, you stay at the simple Hotel Noblia. Bidarray to Itxassou
Itxassou is a delightful, typically Basque village. Here, you stay at either the 2-star Hotel du Fronton, a friendly auberge offering good Basque cuisine. Feedback on post-holiday questionnaires is always positive about Itxassou, and the village is a good choice for an extra night – you can either relax after your exertions of the previous couple of days, or set out on a circular walk. Itxassou to AinhoaThe route leads uphill through grazing land, passing under the Pic de Mondarrain (749 metres). As you descend, you have good views of the whitewashed villages on the plain below, with the Atlantic beyond. You may well chance across a pottok, a semi-wild horse that roams across the hills here. (13km, 5hrs) Even prettier than Itxassou, Ainhoa is generally considered to be the most beautiful of the Basque villages – take time to stroll through the attractive streets before dinner at the Hotel Argi Eder, a 3-star hotel on the edge of the village complete with outdoor pool. Ainhoa to Sare
One of the best hotels on the route, the 3-star Hotel Arraya in Sare has been welcoming travellers for centuries. The interior is beautiful, with exquisite carved wooden furniture, and bedrooms are comfortable and attractively decorated. You eat very well here, too! Sare to BiriatouSetting out from the Arraya, you walk to the station and from here take the cog railway (pay locally) to the summit of La Rhune. Be sure to take your time to appreciate the views – here, at an altitude of 900 metres, you can look across to the Bay of Biscay, the forests of Les Landes, and the Pyrenean chain. From the summit, you walk into Spain, crossing the Ibardin Pass back into France for a series of ascents and descents as you walk from pass to pass to Biriatou, just a couple of miles from the coast. (17km, 6hrs) You will find a warm welcome from Monsieur and Madame Duval at the 3-star Jardins de Bakea. Enjoy the views across the Bidassoa Valley into Spain as you savour delicious cuisine fully deserving of its enviable local reputation on the panoramic terrace. Biriatou to HondarribiaYour last day is easy, through markedly different scenery. A taxi collects you from the Hotel Bakea for the short journey across the border to the panoramic Chapel of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, which perches on a hill overlooking the Atlantic. From here, a scenic path descends towards the coast and follows the peninsula round to the Spanish port of Hondarribia. (7km, 2.5hrs) Your base is the characterful 2-star Hotel Obispo, converted from a beautiful old stone house. Take time to stroll through the walled old town and along the streets of typical Basque houses that lie behind the harbour before picking a restaurant for dinner.  |
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The cuisine, too, is distinctive – try poulet à la basquaise (chicken in a spicy sauce of tomatoes and peppers), and brebis mountain
cheese served with a black cherry conserve. 
From Bidarray, you climb back up towards the Spanish border and to the
summit of Mount Artzamendi (926 metres) for your first sighting of the Atlantic
– on a clear day, you have views of the High Pyrenees behind you and the
sea ahead of you, a magnificent panorama. You then descend through grazing land and expanses of bracken to the
River Nive, which you follow to Itxassou, passing the Pas de Roland, a
hole in the rock which, according to legend, was cut by Roland to let
the Charlemagne army pass through. (16.5km, 6.5hrs)
The walk to Sare is shorter than those of previous days, with gentler
ascents and descents. You follow tracks and country lanes alongside a
series of streams, ascending gradually to a low ridge which you follow, passing
a couple of tiny hamlets, before descending into Sare. (14km, 3hrs)