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The Apennines to Tuscany Walk

By David Quick

I have known and loved the Apennines for nearly twenty years, so returning is always a pleasure. I was especially looking forward to crossing the high pass into Tuscany, as it was my first experience of the Tuscan province of Pistoia.

The excitement of arriving in the Apennines begins when you leave the handsome city of Bologna by train towards Porretta Terme, a journey that becomes increasingly scenic as you climb into the hills alongside the rushing waters of the River Silla. We were met by Bruno of Hotel Montegrande in Vidiciatico, and were soon tucking into home-made pumpkin ravioli in his restaurant and enjoying a rather good local Sangiovese.

The next day, we woke to a clear sky and a warm sun for our first, 'warm up' walk, the ascent of Monte Belvedere. This walk is an excellent introduction to the region, as it offers a fantastic panorama of the high peaks we were to walk close to the following day. It is also a mountain that saw much courageous fighting from the American 10th Airborne Division during the Second World War, and part of the route is known as the 'Path of Liberty'. That evening we enjoyed more excellent country cooking and some fine Lambrusco at Giorgio and Giuliana's hotel, Il Fondaccio, in Lizzano.

The next day again dawned bright and clear, an auspicious start to what we knew was to be the most challenging walk of the route. We had a short transfer to the beautiful village of Monteacuto, and set out on a pretty woodland path that led us high above the valley. After an hour or so, we met the river, and embarked on the severest ascent of the day, but on a good, clear and well-made path that wound up through the forest. We climbed some 500 metres or so in quite a short distance and still felt pretty fresh by the time we sat and enjoyed a refreshing drink and late-morning apple at the wooden refuge.

The next climb was gentler once more, with wonderful views of the snow-capped summit of the Corno alle Scale. This is the region's most dramatic peak, with its tip of layered stone, and gives its name to the surrounding Natural Park. (The park shelters much wildlife – we saw deer and wild boar during the week.) Finally, we reached the ridge, and there, in front of us, was Tuscany, secret valleys flowing from the peaks. Way in the distance, we could even make out the great Tuscan plain of the magnificent cities such as Florence and Pisa. We were to stay on this marvellous ridge for the next couple of hours, enjoying truly unforgettable views. It was a great place to reward our efforts with a good picnic.

We felt a real reluctance to leave the high mountains to descend to the village of Gavinana, at the end of one of the very best walks I have ever enjoyed in Italy. It took us the best part of seven hours, but every step brought great views, and we didn't meet a single other walker all day!

We had certainly worked up a thirst, and sat for a welcome beer in the village bar before reaching our hotel, Il Parco, with its lovely garden. Owner Alessandro was a most welcoming host, and his mother, originally from Puglia, made us some delicious pasta for dinner. The next day, we decided to skip the circular routes suggested (this is an independent walk, so one is obviously free to choose!), and followed Alessandro's advice to visit nearby Pistoia. The local bus service was cheap, efficient and easy to use, and we relaxed by exploring this handsome, yet utterly untouristy town and lingering over a delicious lunch in a friendly trattoria.

The next day, it was back on the paths, albeit on an easier walk with plenty of time to enjoy the views back into the high mountains, and over the lyrical Tuscan valleys. Serenaded by cuckoos, we had a picnic on a craggy outcrop overlooking Prunetta, before descending into the village.

Still blessed by fine, early summer weather, we set out on our final walking day, knowing we had over twenty kilometres to cover to reach our destination. This was another wonderful walk, with ever-changing views, as we almost imperceptibly entered more Mediterranean landscapes, with vines and fig trees replacing the pines of the mountains. We passed pretty villages where children waved to us, and wound through wooded glades on ancient stone paths. In the distance, we could see hill-top Montecatini Alto, and, beyond, the Tuscan plain we had first spied from the high ridge. Now it seemed so close we could reach out and touch it.

Weary but with a profound sense of achievement, we entered the medieval gate of Montecatini Alto, walked up the cobbled hill, and came into the bustling main square, where another beer seemed exactly the right way to toast our success. The last hotel, La Villa Gaia, was a gem, with lovely, comfortable rooms and sweeping views over the town of Montecatini below.

I had high expectations of this walk, and it did not disappoint. It offers some superb routes and a real sense of journey through two marvellous regions.

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