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Andalucia – a region made for walkers

Andalucia is a region full of surprises: virgin beaches, rare and abundant wildlife, breathtaking views across the Strait of Gibraltar to Africa, and much more. One of the region's most striking features is the Moorish influence. The Moors, a mixed race of Berbers and Arabs, first landed in Tarifa, on Spain's southernmost tip, in 710, and not surprisingly, over the course of their 800-year occupation of al-Andalus, left a lasting impression, influencing the customs, gastronomy, architecture and language of the Andalucian people. Another well known feature is the pueblo blanco – both the mountains and coast are dotted with whitewashed villages, the brilliant white of their houses gleaming in the hot southern sun. One characteristic that rarely features in publicity for the region, though, yet definitely deserves recognition, is the richness of the region's wildlife. 17% of Andalucia's territory is protected in recognition of its rich flora and fauna, an impressive proportion given that of Spain's total territory, only 5% is protected. All this, plus the great variety of landscapes, has made Andalucia a great region for walking, catering for all levels of walker, whether you are looking for a rewarding walk in the heart of the mountains, a gentle coastal stroll, or a walk of average difficulty in the foothills.

Our original Andalucian walking holiday, the White Towns & Rugged Mountains walk (grade 2-3), remains as popular as ever. Suitable for fit walkers looking for full days of walking, the route, as its name suggests, takes in some of the region's most splendid pueblos blancos, notably Zahara de la Sierra, whose red-roofed houses cluster beneath its hill-top castle, and Ronda (if you choose the nine-night version). The most dramatic of the pueblos blancos, Ronda perches on the edges of a 130-metre-deep ravine, into which many people were thrown to their death during the Spanish Civil War. The old Moorish quarter (La Ciudad) is the most interesting part of the town, with many elegant mansions amid the maze of narrow streets. Also of interest are the Arab baths and the bullring, one of the earliest in Spain. To reach Ronda, seven days of walking take you through the Grazalema Natural Park, characterised by dramatic limestone cliffs, gullies and caves and home to goshawks, Egyptian vultures, six species of eagle and one of Europe's largest colonies of griffon vultures. Somewhat surprisingly, Grazalema has the highest rainfall of any part of Spain, resulting in an unusually green landscape. One of the real highlights of the holiday is the third day's walk, which takes you through a Unesco-designated 'rare biosphere' that boasts some 300-year-old pinsapos, a type of fir found only in Andalucia and Morocco. Another highlight comes on the fifth day, when you pass a viewpoint from which you can see Gibraltar on a clear day.

The Valleys of Las Alpujarras walk is another route that rewards you with some astonishing views, and with less effort, too – as a grade 2 walk, it involves fewer ascents than our other two mountain routes. Las Alpujarras is the name given to the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada, mainland Spain's highest mountain range, and the towering peaks of these majestic mountains frame the views here and add extra drama to the walking. Besides the views, what makes Las Alpujarras such a rewarding region to discover on foot is the variety of the scenery. The area is full of surprises and you never know what lies around the next bend – over the course of the week you discover steep-sided gorges and fertile orange groves, bubbling streams and Mediterranean landscapes dotted with cacti.

Another grade 2 route is the Andalucia's Tranquil Heartland walk, set against the backdrop of the Alcornocales Natural Park which stretches from Ronda to the Mediterranean and protects the most important cork-oak ecosystem in the Iberian Peninsula. ('Alcornocal' is the Spanish word for 'cork-oak', and is a good example of how the Moors influenced the language: 'alcornocal' derives from the Arabic word 'alcornoque'.) You discover an evolving landscape in which deep valleys wind southwards towards rolling pastures, as well as Andalucia's rich cultural heritage and views that stretch for miles. Even on the second day's walk, you catch glimpses of the Rock of Gibraltar, and as you wind through the cork-oak clad valleys, the Rock and Strait continue to show themselves from time to time. Add characterful, interesting hotels to the mix and you have all the ingredients for a very rewarding holiday.

If you prefer easier and much shorter days of walking, then you have two options. The first is Spain's Secret Sierra walk (grade 1-2). The sierra to which the holiday's title alludes is the Aracena Sierra to the north-west of Seville, close to the Portuguese border. It is a land of glorious woodland and far-reaching views, of soft, rounded hills and crystal-clear streams. It is also a land with which the inhabitants of the authentic villages work in close harmony, and as you walk, you get a glimpse of rural life – men leading donkeys laden with shining chestnuts, workers preparing for the cork harvest, and farmers tending the sleek black pigs which provide the region's prized air-cured ham. Another draw is the richness of the architecture. Seemingly every village hides an architectural treasure, be it the 16th-century Chapel of Our Lady in Alájar, the Knights Templar castle in Aracena or Spain's oldest mihrab in the 9th-century mosque at Almonaster.

The second option – and the last of our holidays in Andalucia – is the Coast of Almería walk (grade 1-2) which offers numerous opportunities to relax on the beach. What drew us to the area is the dramatic scenery, similar in many respects to that of North Africa, and completely different to any other part of mainland Spain. The arid, lunar landscapes are characterised by volcanic cliffs, secluded coves of black sand, small oases and hills covered with prickly pear cactus, agave americana, dwarf fan palm, esparto grass and sisal. Much of the park is only accessible on foot, and because of this it boasts 50 kilometres of virgin beaches. This is a great area for snorkelling – even close to the shore you are likely to spot shoals of fish – and the relaxed pace of the holiday ensures you have plenty of time for this or for simply for lazing on the beach. Despite the aridness, the Park shelters a surprising variety of wildlife and, depending on the season, you could spot birds such as flamingos, storks, puffins and Bonelli's eagles.

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