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It’s all downhill in GeiloBy David Quick Our destination: Geilo, our hotel the Bardøla. That evening, we enjoy our first dinner in the spacious restaurant: a splendid buffet of which the highlight is undoubtedly – for me at least – the fish and seafood. The crayfish get the seconds treatment. After dinner, we relax in the bar with a beer and begin to anticipate our first morning of skiing. The beginners finish at Havsdalen, too, so I meet my partner and we enjoy a well-earned break and early lunch in the well-appointed café. We then ski a few more runs before returning to Geiloheisen, where we rent a locker for the week, leave our gear and stroll back to the hotel via the centre, tired but happy after our successful first day. Over the week, we enjoy the skiing enormously. My favourite runs are the reds and blues that cut through the forest to the east of Geilohovda; short and sharp, they offer technical challenges while being incredibly quiet and very natural. In the afternoons, we get into the habit of taking the ski bus across the valley to Geilo’s other principal ski region, accessed from Geilolia. The pistes here are even better for beginners, with glorious long, wide blue runs, and it is the location of the best café in the region, the Fjellandsby, a wonderfully traditional cabin, tucked away on the most tranquil side of the mountain. Not surprisingly, it seems to be the favoured lunch spot for the men and women who prepare and maintain the lifts. Good, home-cooked food and a pleasant atmosphere help make this the perfect venue for a lunch or afternoon cup of tea. Do we improve our skiing over the week? Immeasurably. I feel I take giant strides forward, my style much better as I tackle tricky reds with ease. My partner, meanwhile, speeds down the blue runs and can manage quite a few reds. More importantly, we have a great holiday, enjoying the comfort, good food and hospitality of the Bardøla and the uniquely relaxed, unhurried atmosphere of Norway’s skiing scene. Whatever kind of winter holiday you fancy, give Norway a go. You will not regret it. > Bardøla Hotel, Geilo  |
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Don’t get me wrong – I love cross-country skiing, and nothing beats that magical silence of the snowy meadow, broken only by the gentle swish of your skis along the tracks. But sometimes I just want to have those very different sensations of speed and excitement that only downhill skiing can bring. And so my partner and I find ourselves settling back into our seats and enjoying the train journey into the mountains from Oslo, surely the most wonderful ‘transfer’ one could possibly have.
The Bardøla is set quietly on the edge of Geilo, and it is best to use the free ski bus or the local taxis to get around the skiing area, though it is a pleasant 15-minute stroll into the centre. We have pre-booked our lessons, a two-hour session for the first 5 mornings, so make an early start to get kitted out, ski-passed and ready for the 10am class start, at the main ski area close to the centre, Geiloheisen. This being Norway, everything manages to be a great combination of friendliness and good organisation, and there is none of the rudeness and chaos one can experience in the busier Alpine resorts. Classes, run by the Geilo Ski School, are a mix of nationalities, with English the main language. We are duly put into our respective groups. I leave my partner with her nervous beginners and head off with my intermediate companions, led by Wilfred, our amiable and expert guide. We take the main ski lift up, and then wind our way gently down to Havsdalen, a pretty clearing around a log cabin, with some fine runs close by. The two hours pass quickly, as we all find our feet and old skills gradually return. I immediately feel I can learn a lot from Wilfred, and feel motivated to ‘work’ hard!
Geilo has a very laid-back, sleepy feel, its hotels scattered around the centre. There is a small shopping area where you can buy any ski equipment you might need, a supermarket, a few restaurants and a bar or two. It is a world away from the hustle and bustle of a mainstream Alpine resort, and all the better for it.