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Auberge des Ecureuils, Valcebollère, Pyrenees
Restaurant: The focal point, however, remains the atmospheric restaurant, complete with a handsome fireplace and exposed stonework. Etienne is a chef of high calibre, and it is here that you savour his wonderful cuisine carefully blending French dishes with Pyrenean specialities. The village: The hamlet of Valcebollère (1,470 metres) lies in a remote valley in the Cerdagne, a couple of miles from Spain. The village was formerly a great deal more significant than it is now, with the usual complement of artisans and peasant farmers in remote parts of rural Europe before the First World War, including shepherds, stone-masons, wood-cutters, carpenters and charcoal-makers. Now home to just 50 or so inhabitants, the village preserves its original Cerdagne architecture and traditional ways of life. There are a host of natural products and regional specialities available here: we particularly recommend the excellent local cheese called La Tomme de Valcebollère. Monsieur Lafitte senior is a renowned beekeeper and keeps a little museum of bees and honey in the village. Christmas & New Year celebrations: Christmas at the hotel is a relaxed, quiet affair, the focus being a special gourmet dinner. To mark New Year, Etienne prepares a celebratory meal followed by dancing. Prices & travel:
Nights: 7 > Notes on prices |
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The high Cerdagne Plateau, dotted with forests and typical mountain villages, is surrounded by the great peaks of the eastern Pyrenees and enjoys bright, crisp winter days. These magnificent mountains are perfect terrain for those who have mastered the basics of cross-country skiing and wish to improve further, and also invite exploration on snow-shoes, another enjoyable way to appreciate the stillness of this little-known region.
Rooms and facilities:
The bedrooms, all with a bath, are spacious, well-equipped and tranquil. The hotel offers plenty of space in which to relax, including a pleasant bar-crêperie and small lounge. 
Skiing and other winter activities: Etienne is also a keen skier, and organises the cross-country trails. He is a patient instructor, offering useful tips on how to improve your technique, and often leads ski and snow-shoe excursions, some of which take you into neighbouring areas so that you can gain maximum enjoyment from these spectacular high mountains. There is a real thrill as you stride through silent forests into a world of unspoiled beauty and tranquillity, bathed in Mediterranean light. The 105-kilometre network comprises 25 kilometres of prepared trails and 80 kilometres of unprepared tracks, reaching altitudes of 2,000 metres. To ring the changes, you could go snow-shoeing, or take a taxi (pay locally) to nearby Font-Romeu, where there is a 52-kilometre alpine ski domain.
