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The Best of Roman Provence

Pont du GardThe limestone hills north of the Camargue form the final fold of the Massif Central. At the western fringe of Provence, these secret, sun-scorched hills conceal tiny stone villages and the ancient duchy of Uzès. Cutting a deep, wooded gorge through the scented hills, the River Gardon slips between the graceful arches of the mighty Pont du Gard, one of the region’s Roman masterpieces. This relaxed walk, perhaps the most comfortable and gastronomic of all our walking breaks, follows attractive paths through these most Mediterranean of landscapes, where the air is perfumed with the scent of herbs, and buzzards and falcons soar overhead. To discover this secret region on foot is a delight, all the more so when you stay in high-quality hotels, offering some outstanding cuisine.

Nights: 4
Grade: 1-2
Terrain: mainly sandy tracks, some country lanes
Hotels: two 3-star hotels; one 4-star hotel
Meals: dinner & breakfast each day, plus 2 picnics
Climate: summers in the Gard are long and hot, with daytime temperatures typically reaching the high twenties Celsius from June to the end of September. Spring and autumn are warm (the average temperature is around 20°C), making for pleasant walking conditions.

Fenestrelle Tower, UzesStarting point: Hotel du Général d’Entraigues (3*), Uzès. A comfortable, well-equipped and atmospheric hotel converted from a 15th-century aristocrat’s house complete with stone-flagged floors and vaulted ceilings. With a lounge, outdoor pool and panoramic roof-top terrace offering views of the town's many towers, there is plenty of space to relax. Enjoy refined cuisine in the hotel's smart restaurant, Les Jardins de Castille. The hotel is located opposite the cathedral.

Day 1: before setting off from Uzès it is well worth taking an hour or two to explore. Besides some handsome old stone arcades there are numerous monuments in the medieval heart of the town, including the elegant Fenestrelle Tower and the ducal palace. The walk to Collias is full of interest, and serves as a good introduction to the landscapes of the garrigue: gently rolling hills coated in kermes and holm oaks and other small shrubs, and dotted with sleepy hamlets. The first part of the walk leads through woodland alongside the River Alzon, then joins a botanical trail that ascends to the top of the ridge. From here, you walk through vineyards, orchards and woodland to pick up a path through expanses of rosemary and thyme along the top of the Gardon Gorge. Enjoy sweeping views in clear weather (behind you, you can often make out the hills of the Cévennes), including occasional tantalising glimpses into the gorge below. (14km, 4hrs)

River GardonAccommodation: Hostellerie le Castellas (3*), Collias. A high-quality, beautifully appointed hotel where you will find a genuinely warm welcome and superb cuisine (with a wine list to match). Each bedroom is individually decorated, with great attention to detail. There is a small outdoor pool.

Day 2 : we suggest two walks for your day here. One option is to head west through the Gardon Gorge, following a sandy path close to the water's edge before ascending steadily out of the gorge and returning to Collias via the broad ridge above. If you are lucky, you may spot a kingfisher, Bonelli's eagle or Egyptian vulture as you walk between the limestone cliffs of the gorge. The second walk leads southwards from Collias to a tiny, secluded chapel, from where you follow a limestone ridge that affords splendid views towards Mount Ventoux. (14km, 5.5hrs or 11km, 4hrs)

Accommodation: Hostellerie le Castellas, as above.

Day 3: this final walk leads along tracks and country lanes lined with orchards and small vineyards to the spectacular Pont du Gard. You have time to visit the ancient bridge and the visitors' centre and to enjoy a leisurely picnic by the river before continuing alongside the aqueduct to the idyllic village of Castillon-du-Gard, set amid the vineyards. (12km, 4.5hrs)

Le Vieux CastillonAccommodation: Le Vieux Castillon (4*), Castillon-du-Gard. This is undoubtedly the most beautiful hotel that we have ever discovered in southern France. Converted from several medieval houses, the hotel exudes character. The service is attentive, the bedrooms are exquisite, and there is a lovely terrace and outdoor pool, but the real highlight is the cuisine, well deserving of its Michelin star. A fitting climax to the break.

 

Prices & travel 2008

£ per person based
on 2 in a double rm
Walk
price*
Single
room
4 nights: 1 April-5 July & 1 September-15 November 2008
1-30 Apr 696 190
1-23 May 716 230
24 May-16 Jun 726 235
17 Jun-5 Jul 749 235
1-30 Sep 749 235
1-30 Oct 726 235
1-15 Nov 696 190
3rd+ person saving 60  

Start: any day
*Price includes: return taxi from Avignon or Nîmes airports, return rail/taxi from Montpellier (Avignon out 0h55/home 0h45, Nîmes out/home 0h30, Montpellier out 1h05/home 1h15).
Recommended airport: Avignon, Nîmes or Montpellier
Alternative airports: Marseille. Add £28pp for return rail/taxi from Marseille (out 1h10/home 1h05)
Latest flight arrival time: Avignon 1800; Nîmes 1800; Montpellier 1600; Marseille 1600
Earliest flight departure time: Avignon flexible; Nîmes flexible; Montpellier 1100, Marseille 1100 (later on a Sunday)
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