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Hidden Catalonia

The warm, wooded hills of the Garrotxa lead down towards the sea from the great peaks of the Pyrenees, and mark the transition from the mountain to the Mediterranean landscape. This is one of Catalonia’s least-known and most varied regions, blessed by a truly Mediterranean climate and an astonishing range of fauna and flora. Discover ancient volcanoes, old stone villages, inspirational viewpoints and isolated Romanesque chapels while buzzards, kites and eagles soar above in the warm skies.

Nights: 4
Grade: 2
Terrain: wooded hills, farmland
Hotels: one rural inn; one 3-star hotel
Meals: breakfast & dinner every day, plus 1 picnic
Climate: this sunny Mediterranean region sees average temperatures ranging from 14°C in April to 24°C in July and August, with June and September averaging 21°C.

El FerresStarting point: El Ferrés (rural inn), Joanetes. You are warmly welcomed to the Garrotxa by Carmen who, though she speaks no English, makes guests feel instantly at home. Her delicious country cooking, which you enjoy along with other guests around the large dining table, is an excellent introduction to the regional cuisine and some of the many local specialities. Like the dining room and lounges, the spacious bedrooms are rustic and attractive, with large bathrooms.

Day 1: our suggested circular walk leads steadily uphill through attractive oak and beech woods to the site of an old castle. From this high vantage point, the views in clear weather are superb, stretching across the valley to the peaks of the Pyrenees and even the Mediterranean, a just reward for your efforts. After pausing to admire the panorama, you head across high pastureland before descending through woodland and crossing the valley floor back to Joanetes. (12km, 4.5hrs)

Accommodation: El Ferrés, as above.

Day 2: this is a long but very interesting day that reveals the Garrotxa’s volcanic landscape. After an initial section across farmland and through small hamlets, your path leads round the crater of a small volcano and through beautiful beech woods, passing two tiny Romanesque churches. The second part of the walk takes you through more woods and farmland to the volcano of Santa Margarida. You walk round the rim of this, with the chance to descend right into its perfectly formed crater. (19km, 5.5hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Cal Sastre (3*), Santa Pau. Located just outside the historic heart of the village, this is a hotel of great character, and the bedrooms are beautifully furnished with many antiques and great attention to detail. For dinner, you dine at the hotel’s locally renowned restaurant (closed 1-9 July) in the arcaded main square, where you are treated to delicious dishes such as local goat’s cheese with red pepper and anchovy purée, and leg of duck in a grape sauce.

Day 3: your final, circular walk starts with a steady ascent through woodland. Your target is a small sanctuary which perches high above Santa Pau, affording a 360-degree panorama that includes both the Pyrenees and the sea on clear days. On your return, there is plenty of time to stroll through Santa Pau’s ancient streets or to sit in the hotel’s tranquil garden. (13km, 4.5hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel Cal Sastre, as above.

 

Prices & travel 2008:

£ per person based
on 2 in a double rm
Walk
price*
Single
room
4 nights: 1 April-26 July & 1 September-1 November 2008
1-30 Apr 414 100
1-23 May 432 100
24 May-26 Jul 443 103
1-15 Sep 453 109
16 Sep-1 Nov 443 103
3rd+ person saving 65  

Start: any day
*Price includes: return taxi from Girona (out 1h/home 0h50)
Recommended airport: Girona
Alternative airport: Barcelona. Add £20 per person for return rail/taxi from Barcelona city centre (out/home 2h30)
Latest flight arrival: Girona flexible; Barcelona 1830
Earliest flight departure: Girona flexible; Barcelona 1300
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