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Catalan Coves & Castles
Nights: 4
Day 1: on your day at Peratallada, it is well worth walking across the plain to the pretty medieval village of Ullastret (complete with a Romanesque church), just outside which lie the remains of an Iberian (pre-Roman) settlement dating from the 6th century BC (closed Mondays). These have been extensively excavated, revealing the ancient street pattern and water distribution system. Alternatively, you could stroll to attractive Palau-Sator, a hotch-potch of architectural styles from over the centuries, or enjoy a longer walk taking in both Ullastret and Palau-Sator. (8km, 3hrs or 7km, 2.5hrs or 12km, 4hrs) Accommodation: Hostal el Cau de Papibou, as above.
Accommodation: Hotel Rosa (3*), Begur. Run by the hospitable Rosa Caner and her husband Narcis, this is a truly welcoming small hotel with a relaxed atmosphere. The roof-top terrace, with its views over the town’s tiled roofs, is the perfect place to relax, while the vaulted restaurant justly enjoys an enviable reputation. Here, you dine from the extensive à la carte menu.
Accommodation: Hotel Rosa, as above. Prices & travel 2008:
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Northern Catalonia is renowned for its rugged coastline, but just as appealing
are the medieval villages that crown the rolling inland hills. Often guarded
by a crumbling castle, their cobbled streets of honey-coloured houses
are full of history and a delight to explore. This most leisurely of walking
breaks reveals both aspects of this charming corner of Catalonia, with
the chance to discover the region's acclaimed gastronomy, and the wines
produced by the vineyards you pass on your route. With short, gentle routes,
each day promises a relaxing combination of walking and sightseeing. 
Starting point: Hostal el Cau de Papibou (rural hotel), Peratallada. You are warmly welcomed to this peaceful hotel by the friendly owners, Enric and Penelope. There are just six bedrooms, all of which overlook the colourful central courtyard, ensuring an intimate atmosphere. Your stay is on a bed and breakfast basis – though small, Peratallada boasts several top-class restaurants, from which you can take your pick using our recommendations as a guide.
Day 2: from Peratallada, you head east across the plain, through
open fields and attractive woodland. You ascend gently to medieval Pals,
where you can spend some time exploring the ancient ramparts and the cobbled
streets of houses built from the peach-coloured local stone. Seek out,
too, the various Romanesque monuments and the viewpoint overlooking the
Mediterranean, the Medes Islands and the Montgri Mountains. There are
various good restaurants, making this a good point to stop for lunch.
From Pals, your path descends, rising again later on to enter the Begur
massif and Begur itself. (12km, 4hrs)
Day 3: take some time to explore enchanting Begur and its haphazard
streets, above which stand the ruins of the 11th-century castle, an excellent
viewpoint – in clear weather you can see Mount Canigou in the Pyrenees.
If you would like to walk some more, a path leads to the pleasant bay
at Aiguafreda, where you can relax awhile and enjoy a delicious seafood
lunch (pay locally) before returning to Begur via the beautiful gardens
at Mas d’en Pinc. (8.5km, 2.5hrs)