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The Timeless South-West

NajacBetween the great Gaillac vineyards close to the banks of the River Tarn and the twisting gorges of the Aveyron is a timeless land of ancient villages immersed in rolling hills and vineyards. This is the Quercy Blanc (its name derives from the region's whitish soil), its alluring landscapes reminiscent of those of Tuscany. The tranquillity of the region nowadays belies a more turbulent past - the Quercy Blanc is dotted with hill-top bastides, fortified villages with tiny, arcaded squares and ordered streets, most of which were built during less peaceful eras, namely the suppression of the Cathar heresy and the Hundred Years War. To stroll through Najac or Cordes on a warm evening is to go back in time.

L'Oustal del Barry, Najac

Restaurant, Oustal del BarryA Cathar castle, medieval winding streets and the broad sweep of the Aveyron’s wooded valley set the scene of historic Najac. In the midst of it all is the charming Oustal del Barry, a high-quality 2-star hotel. Your well-equipped bedroom will either look out across the gorge or towards the château, and your first night's included meal allows you to sample the hotel’s exquisite and imaginative cuisine - justly awarded a Michelin bib gourmand. You are then free to choose from the village’s other restaurants during the remainder of your stay.

Walking and sightseeing

As there is so much to discover in this enticing corner - not least the small city of Albi with its imposing fortified cathedral, red-brick centre and Toulouse-Lautrec museum - we suggest just two walks (both leisurely grade 1-2 routes), leaving the rest of your time free for sightseeing.

The Aveyron Valley: leaving Najac, your path contours the hillside then crosses the River Aveyron. You rise away from the river, looping back towards the village through a couple of hamlets. The route ends with a steady ascent to Najac, but rewards you with a different perspective of the village. (8km, 3hrs)

Around Castelnau-de-Montmirail: starting in Castelnau-de-Montmirail, an attractive bastide village, this walk follows paths and tracks through open, rolling countryside of farmland and vineyards, with fine views back to Castelnau in clear weather from numerous points along the circuit. On your return to Castelnau, take some time to explore - the village was founded in the 13th century and boasts grid-patterned streets and a handsome square surrounded by stone arcades and half-timbered houses. (12km, 4hrs)

Cordes-sur-Ciel, Villefranche-de-Rouergue & Cahors: perched on a conical hill, superbly preserved Cordes is one of the region’s most famous bastides, with steep cobbled streets lined with 13th and 14th-century houses. North of Najac, Villefranche-de-Rouergue is just as well-preserved - if not more so - and completely unspoiled. Its centrepiece is the Place Notre Dame, a superlative example of an arcaded medieval square, with ornate and unusually tall houses. Najac itself is also well worth exploring, and you can visit the château (open April to September) to learn about its rich history - it was highly prized and hence frequently fought over due to its commanding position in a region once peppered with silver and copper mines. You can also use your hire car to explore the twisting gorges either side of the village. Further afield is Cahors, a historic town famed for its fortified 14th-century bridge and excellent red wines.

Prices & travel 2008

£ per person based
on 2 in a double rm
Walk
price*
Single
room
3 nights: 1 April-31 October 2008
1 Apr-13 Jun
217
15
14 Jun-30 Jun
243
15
1 Jul-25 Aug
248
15
26 Aug-15 Sep
243
15
16 Sep-30 Sep
222
15
1 Oct-31 Oct
217
15
3rd+ person saving
40

*Price includes: 3 nights' bed & breakfast, plus 1 dinner; 3 days’ category B car hire from Toulouse airport
#Per person per night on a B&B basis
Recommended destination airport: Toulouse (2h drive)
Latest flight arrival time: flexible
Earliest flight departure time: flexible
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