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Piedmont & the Barolo Vineyards
Hotel San Carlo, Cortemilia Walking and sightseeing Around Cortemilia: paths rise above Cortemilia through chestnut woods and cultivated terraces to Bergolo, a beautiful medieval village built almost entirely of stone. Once you’ve strolled through the ancient streets, you return along an ancient trail through the Bormida Valley. If you would prefer a longer walk, you can extend the route by returning via another old stone village, Levice. (14km, 4hrs or 20km, 6hrs) Barolo wine walk: again you will need to drive to the starting point of this walk, Monforte d'Alba. From here, you follow scenic tracks overlooking Novello’s two castles to Barolo, where we include a visit to the Marchesi di Barolo wine cellar (closed August) followed by a tasting. On your return to Monforte, explore the village with its mansion, several Baroque chapels, 13th-century bell tower, and sundials. (8km, 3hrs) Prices & travel 2008
*Price includes: 3 nights' bed & breakfast, plus 1 dinner; 3 days' category B car hire from either recommended airport
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Piedmont’s full-bodied, velvety Barolo wines deservedly rejoice in fame, but less well-known are the eleven idyllic medieval villages where they are produced, the unusual landscape of wave-shaped hills that surround the villages, and the outstanding regional gastronomy based on delicious white truffles, hazelnuts and flavoursome cheeses. With all this, you needn’t be a wine connoisseur to choose Piedmont for your holiday. Indeed, a break here will introduce you to one of Italy’s most alluring landscapes – all the more special because it is so little-known – in which lush green scenery is framed by the majestic peaks of the Alps and guarded by fortresses.
An ideal base from which to explore the area is the 3-star Hotel San Carlo in Cortemilia, capital of this important hazelnut-producing area. Though modern, the hotel has plenty of character. Bedrooms are simple but comfortable, while the attractive gardens boast an outdoor pool. Carlo Zarri, the ebullient owner, is not only an accomplished chef but also a trained sommelier, with a cellar comprising well over 1,000 wines to suit all pockets. His menus bring out the best of every season, with dishes such as home-made nettle ravioli with a hazelnut sauce (delicious!), and rabbit with olives and pine kernels, making dinner here on your first night a real highlight of the break. On your other nights, you can dine at the hotel again or take your pick of the nearby restaurants using our recommendations as a guide. 
We provide route notes for three gentle circular walks (see below), of which our favourite takes in an inspirational viewpoint from where the vistas often stretch as far as the Alps. Another leads to the village that produces the famous Barolo wine, where we include a visit to the Marchesi di Barolo wine cellar that finishes with a wine tasting. Spend the rest of your time exploring the atmospheric villages or simply relaxing in the hotel garden by the pool.
Villages & views walk: starting and finishing in Castiglione Falletto, this route leads gently uphill through vineyards to the church of Annunziata, well worth a visit to see its frescoes. As you continue through more vineyards and hazel groves to the village of La Morra, you pass an excellent viewpoint which offers panoramas of several wine villages. At La Morra, take time to admire the views over the wave-shaped hills (on a clear day you can often see as far as the Alps) and to sample some wines at the cantina before returning via several small hamlets. (10km, 5.5hrs)