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Beneath the Sierra Nevada

Framed to the north by the mighty peaks of the Sierra Nevada, mainland Spain’s highest mountains, the fertile valleys of the Alpujarras are full of surprises and as such are a delight to explore – you never know what lies around the next bend. Indeed, the variety of the scenery is astonishing, from steep-sided gorges to orange groves, and from bubbling streams to Mediterranean landscapes dotted with cacti.

Casa las Chimeneas, Mairena

Set in the typical Alpujarran village of Mairena, where mules still outnumber cars by two to one, Casa las Chimeneas is a beautifully appointed rural hotel of 3-star standard. The bedrooms, many of which have wooden beams and tiled floors, are furnished with Andalucian antiques, and all have either a terrace or a balcony. The mountain views from the main, jasmine-covered terrace are breathtaking, and are shared by the outdoor swimming pool. You dine at the hotel on your first night, and are free to take your pick of the local restaurants on your other nights – ask your charming hosts for suggestions.

Walking and sightseeing

As keen walkers, David and Emma will also be delighted to advise you on the local paths. In addition to the three routes (see below) that we provide in the area to the west of Mairena, they can suggest various walks in the immediate vicinity or even act as your guide – one excursion offered is a thrilling high-mountain walk at altitudes over 2,000 metres (this option, which you can pre-book through Inntravel, is £86 per party for up to six people). For a change from walking, you could use your hire car to visit Yegen, the village immortalised in the works of British writer Gerald Brenan who lived there in the 1920s; the splendid Moorish Alhambra in Granada; or the unusual, desert-like hills and virgin beaches of the Cabo de Gata Regional Park.

Terraces & the River Trevélez: our suggested circular walk from Pitres takes in five tiny villages of the Taja, a lush, bowl-shaped valley dotted with springs. The route crosses ancient terraces, passing old threshing floors, then descends to an abandoned mill on the banks of the River Trevélez. From here, you walk along the valley before rising steadily back to Pitres and your hire car. To extend the walk, you can cross the river and ascend the river cliff via a stairway-like mule track. Though the ascent is steep, your efforts are rewarded with a new perspective of the Sierra Nevada and sweeping views of the Taja. (9km, 4hrs)

The Cerro Gordo: starting and finishing in the village of Bérchules, this is a superb but relatively strenuous walk that crosses the flanks of the Cerro Gordo (2,044 metres), rewarding you with thrilling views of the Sierra Nevada. (12km, 5hrs)

Along the river valley: this easier walk again starts from Bérchules, this time leading along the pretty banks of the Río Grande to a perfect picnic spot by an abandoned mill at the Junto de los Ríos ('The Meeting of the Rivers'). (10km, 4hrs)

Prices & travel 2008

*Price includes: 3 nights' bed & breakfast, 1 dinner; 3 days’ category A car hire from Almeria airport
#Per person per night on a B&B basis
Recommended airport: Almeria
Latest flight arrival time: flexible
Earliest flight departure time: flexible
Start: any day
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