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A Journey to ÅDiscover the dramatic Lofotens on foot Nights: 8
Starting point: Zackarias Brygga, Skrova. The journey to Skrova is a highlight in itself, with breathtaking views of the Lofoten ‘wall’. This simple hostelry (the four bedrooms share two bathrooms) is the focal point of the island’s small community and truly authentic. You will no doubt be drawn to the panoramic lounge overlooking the harbour. Dinners of northern fare are cooked for you, while ingredients are left in the kitchen for you to prepare breakfast at your leisure. Day 1: Skrova is one of the smallest inhabited islands in the Lofotens, lying slightly apart from the rest of the archipelago. There are just 280 inhabitants and life on Skrova is lived much as it has been for centuries, with people’s livelihoods centred on the sea and its annual harvest. Today you walk round the entire island, initially through meadows and across a rocky plateau. As you reach the eastern side, you descend to a spectacular fjord lined with large rocks, then enter a distinctly wilder and more remote part of the island. Your path heads inland from the coast, with the option, if you are sure-footed, of ascending to the summit of Høgskrova for incredible views of both sides of the island, with the Lofoten 'wall' beyond. If you are lucky, you may spot a sea eagles as you walk. (12km, 4.5hrs) Accommodation: Zackarias Brygga, as above. Day 2: you journey by ferry and bus to Leknes, on the island of Vestvågøy, midway along the chain, where you collect your hire car and drive along scenic roads to Mortsund. Accommodation: Statles Rorbusenter, Mortsund. Wenche Lesniak welcomes you warmly to these comfortable and cosy rorbu (fishermen’s cottages), all with enviable views. These are furnished and equipped to a very good standard, with shower and WC, a small kitchen and central heating. You dine at the centre’s restaurant from the half-board menu which offers a choice of fish or meat dishes. Days 3 & 4: we suggest a choice of four walks for your time in Mortsund, all of which require you to drive to the start point. One option is a walk around the headland from Eggum. As well as affording views of the archipelago’s highest mountain, the walk is great for wildlife-spotting - it is common to see seals, oyster catchers and even, if you are lucky, white-tailed sea eagles. You return to Eggum along the same path. A longer but easier route takes you through the remote Tjørndalen Valley to a viewpoint offering vistas of Vestvågøy's north and south coasts, then crosses high moorland before dropping into the neighbouring valley of Lauvdalen. For a high-level walk, choose to walk to the summit of Justadtinden - one of the highest points on Vestvågoy which affords a memorable 360-degree panoramic view of the island. The majority of the walk is a steady ascent over stony paths, only becoming steeper and more strenuous as you make the final short ascent to the summit. A fourth option is to walk from the island’s most important fishing village to Vetting Moor via Vestvågoy’s southernmost point, from where there are superb views of the Lofoten ‘wall’. Accommodation: Statles Rorbusenter, as above. Day 5: leaving Mortsund in your hire car, you head west through the Nappstraum Tunnel to Moskenes, the last large island, taking the winding coastal road to the village of Hamnøy. If you like, you can stop en route for a short, easy walk which leads from the village of Ytresand around the headland to the abandoned fishing village and sandy bay of Mulstøa. (4km, 2hrs) Accommodation: Eliassen Rorbuer, Hamnøy. These converted fishermen’s cottages are simpler than those on Vestvågoy. Painted in the traditional colours of dark red and white, they perch right on the rocky edge of the sea. You dine at a neighbouring restaurant which also provides ingredients for you to make your own breakfasts. Days 6 & 7: we provide walking notes for two walks while on Hamnøy. Of these, we highly recommend the walk to Mount Munkebu, which is relatively demanding but thoroughly rewarding. Your path ascends gently through beech woods to the first of several lakes you pass. You then rise more steeply, alongside a waterfall and above a fjord, before crossing grassland to reach Mount Munkebu. On a clear day, you can see as far as Bodø on the mainland from here, as well as Hamnøy's various lakes and fjords. A second very memorable walk takes you from Nesland, a tiny fishing hamlet, to the larger fishing village of Nusfjord, which is widely considered to be the best preserved fishing village in the whole of Norway and has been declared a Unesco World Heritage Site. The path follows the coastline on gravel and rocky paths beneath impressive mountains with expansive views. To the east, you can see mainland Norway, while, to the south-west, you can see tiny Å, the last village on the island of Moskenes. Instead of walking, you could in fact visit Å, where there is a fascinating museum which vividly paints a picture of how tough life was in a 19th century fishing village. (11km, 5.5hrs or 9km, 4hrs) Accommodation: Eliassen Rorbuer, as above. Recommendations for extra nights: the rorbu at Mortsund are an ideal choice, given the wide choice of activities and museums on offer, as well as the wonderful variety of walking terrain. Prices & travel 2008:
Recommended destination airport: arrival Bodø, departure Leknes Extra Night Prices
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