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Villages of the Dordogne

Past medieval hamlets & hill-top châteaux

The sunny Dordogne valley, one of the oldest-inhabited areas of France, offers lots to delight the visitor, not least a rich and flavoursome regional cuisine featuring truffles, foie gras and wild mushrooms, and beautiful, ever-changing landscapes. As you walk along paths that echo the twists and turns of the river, you are constantly rewarded with superb views – a hill-top château above a field of walnut trees, an oak-lined meander of the Dordogne, an unspoiled medieval village – making for a thoroughly enjoyable holiday. Our gentle walk starts in Beaulieu, whose origins date back to the 9th century, and explores the area south of the town, which is dotted with idyllic villages of turreted mansions and half-timbered houses with brown-tiled roofs, among them Autoire, Loubressac and Carennac. Our routes are leisurely, with plenty of time for lazy picnics at the numerous viewpoints along the way.

Nights: 7
Grade: 1-2
Terrain: paths and sandy tracks along riverside cliffs and through farmland and woodland
Hotels: one 2-star hotel; one 3-star chambres d'hôtes (guesthouse); two 3-star hotels
Meals: dinner & breakfast each day, plus 3 picnics
Climate: the sunny Dordogne enjoys a long, hot summer. Average temperatures in the region range from 18°C in May, to 23°C in June and September, with temperatures averaging 27°C at the height of summer.

Beaulieu
Carennac
Ancient streets
Wide-open views
Loubressac
Local produce

Starting point: Le Manoir de Beaulieu (3*), Beaulieu. A characterful hotel well located near the centre of the town. Bedrooms are decorated with charm and a simple elegance, while the restaurant serves refined cuisine that is a good introduction to the Dordogne's gastronomy.

Day 1: spend your first day exploring historic Beaulieu, one of the most attractive medieval towns on the Dordogne. The focal point is the famed Romanesque church, which was once part of the town's Benedictine abbey, but the maze of ancient streets lined with craft shops and 14th and 15th-century houses hold just as much allure. If you have time, you can explore the area upstream of Beaulieu on a short walk that introduces you to the region's landscape of meadows, copses and rolling hills scattered with stone farmhouses. (7km, 2.5hrs)

Accommodation: Le Manoir de Beaulieu, as above.

Day 2: leaving Beaulieu, you cross the Dordogne and head across fields and through woodland, passing through several small villages and enjoying lovely views of the Dordogne Valley and the castle at La Marjorie. You reach the banks of the River Cère, a tributary of the Dordogne, and Port de Gagnac. (10km, 3hrs)

Accommodation: Auberge du Vieux Port (2*), Port de Gagnac. The Lasfargeas family's welcoming inn overlooks the River Cère, with comfortable, modern bedrooms and a restaurant popular among locals.

Day 3 (standard holiday): from Port de Gagnac, your route leads south-west, winding through orchards, vineyards and woodland. It is well worth detouring to the château of Castelnau, which affords splendid views (pay locally), before ascending gently to hill-top Loubressac. (18km, 5hrs)
Day 3 (gastronomic option): if you choose our gastronomic option, your destination is St Jean Lespinasse and you take a different route across meadows and woodland, passing several small villages. (14km, 4hrs)

Accommodation (standard holiday): Relais de Castelnau (3*), Loubressac. This is a comfortable hotel, so named because it enjoys views back to the château of Castelnau from the restaurant, terrace and outdoor pool. There is also a tennis court in the grounds.
Accommodation (gastronomic option): Trois Soleils de Montal (3*), St Jean Lespinasse. Named after the turreted château in whose grounds it stands, this hotel makes a real treat. Warm colours and rich fabrics create an elegant yet cosy feel, and the welcome from Madame Bazit and her team is friendly and genuine. Bedrooms, most of which have a terrace or balcony, are spacious and well-equipped, and there are lounges and a bar in which to relax. The tranquil grounds boast a good-sized outdoor pool surrounded by mature trees, but the hotel's real focal point is the smart restaurant, where the cuisine has deservedly been awarded a Michelin star.

Day 4 (standard holiday): for your day at Loubressac, we suggest a circular walk to the west of the village. You pass through the picture-book village of Autoire and the nearby cirque, where waterfalls tumble down the rocks. Afterwards, take time to explore fortified Loubressac's narrow, winding alleys and to admire the views over the Cère and Dordogne valleys. (12km, 4hrs)
Day 4 (gastronomic option): your route to Loubressac takes you via Autoire and its cirque, offering excellent views of Loubressac's towers as you approach. (12km, 4hrs)
Day 4 (alternative route): another option is a route which allows you to visit the caves of the Gouffre de Padirac (pay locally). The caves extend for some 20 kilometres, with some caverns 100 metres high, and there are numerous geological wonders. The visit is partly on foot, partly by boat. (11km, 3hrs or 15km, 4hrs plus visit)

Accommodation (standard holiday & gastronomic option): Relais de Castelnau, as above.

Day 5: you are transferred by taxi to the delightful village of Carennac, considered by many to be the area's prettiest village. Turreted manor houses cluster round the ruined priory, which boasts atmospheric cloisters and a fine chapter house. Your walk then leads you westwards through farmland and low woodland, across the River Dordogne to Domaine de la Vaysse.

Accommodation: Domaine de la Vaysse (3* chambres d'hôtes), near Martel. Nelly and Maurice Chavant welcome you to their delightful guesthouse, a converted 19th-century farmhouse situated in beautiful rolling countryside south of Martel. Relax by the outdoor pool set in attractive gardens and enjoy regional cuisine and the company of the other guests as you dine at a large table.

Day 6: the day is free to relax by the swimming pool or enjoy a circuit northwards to pretty Martel, known as 'the town of seven towers' and named after Charles Martel, one of the early and greatest Frankish kings of France, and the grandfather of Charlemagne.

Accommodation: Domaine de la Vaysse, as above.

Recommendations for extra nights: Le Manoir de Beaulieu is a pleasant base, in a pretty small town setting. For a 10-night holiday, combine this walk with our Paths to Rocamadour walk. The route is as follows, with one night at each except where shown: Beaulieu, Port de Gagnac, Loubressac (2 nights), Creysse, Lacave (2 nights), Calès, Hospitalet (2 nights).

Extensions: If flying via Tolouse, enjoy undiscovered France by adding 3 nights amid Cantal's rolling hills at the 3* Auberge de Concasty set in its own grounds surrounded by meadows.

Similar holidays: Paths to Rocamadour (grade 1-2), Sunflowers & Abbeys (grade 1-2), A Provence Wander (grade 1-2), To the Pont du Gard (grade 1-2), Hill-Top Towns of Tuscany (grade 1-2), A Stroll through History (grade 1-2)

Prices & travel 2008:

£ per person based
on 2 in a double rm
Walk price* By
rail
Self-
drive
Single
room
7 nights: 1 April-31 October 2008
1 Apr-23 May 539 743 585 140
24 May-13 Jun 560 766 606 140
14-30 Jun 579 783 623 146
1 Jul-31 Aug 612 817 657 146
1-30 Sep 579 783 623 146
1-31 Oct 560 766 606 140
3rd+ person saving 40 55 80  
Gastronomic Option, dinner included, add per person:
All dates 0 0 0 0

Recommended destination airports: Limoges & Toulouse
Latest flight arrival time:
Limoges 1500; Toulouse 1500
Earliest flight departure time:
Limoges 1200; Toulouse 1300
*Connecting travel:
return rail/taxi from Limoges (out/home 2h35) £76pp;
return rail/taxi from Toulouse (out2h50/home 2h25) £95pp

By rail includes:
Eurostar/regional rail via Paris & Brive-la-Gaillarde (out dep St Pancras 0832, 0627 on Saturdays /home dep Souillac 0858)
Self-drive includes: P&O Ferries Dover-Calais
Extra nights can be booked at any hotel
Start:
varies according to month of travel - please contact us for details
Book your flights through us and we'll find the best route, times and price to suit you

Extra night prices

£ per person based
on 2 in a double rm
Double
room
Single
room
Beaulieu 1 Apr-11 Jul 57 77
  12 Jul-6 Sep 66 86
  7 Sep-31 Oct 57 77
Martel 1 Apr-31 Oct 45 54
Gastronomic option
St Jean Lepinasse 1 Apr-9 Jul 83 117
  10 Jul-14 Sep 98 142
  15 Sep-31 Oct 83 117

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