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The Castles of the Cathars

Discover a secret land steeped in history

Deep in south-west France, between the plain of Carcassonne and the peaks of the Pyrenees, the Corbières hills have many secrets to tell, not least those relating to the persecution of the mysterious Cathar heretics who developed a more ascetic and less ritualised version of Christianity. Follow in their footsteps over panoramic passes and along green ridges and you will discover one of the last truly ‘secret’ regions of France, one little-known to the French themselves, despite it being the focal point of a very turbulent era of the country’s history. The region's rugged beauty is made all the more dramatic by the striking and seemingly inaccessible fortresses in which the doomed Cathars sought refuge. This is superb walking country, and our varied, very rewarding route affords inspirational views towards the ever-present Pyrenees, and gives you the opportunity to visit three of the most astonishing châteaux that witnessed the oppression of the Cathars (pay locally).

Nights: 7
Grade: 2-3
Terrain: narrow paths and tracks along broad ridges and through forest and vineyards
Hotels: three 2-star hotels; one 3-star chambres d’hôtes (guesthouse)
Meals: dinner & breakfast each day, plus 4 picnics
Climate: the proximity of the Mediterranean ensures a long, warm summer. Temperatures average 19°C in May and October, reaching 25°C in June and September.

Galamus Gorge

Puilarens Château

Wild flowers

Enjoy delicious cuisine

Scenic trails

Rewarding walking

Starting point: Hotel du Grand Duc (2*), Gincla. The hotel, one of the best on the route, was converted from the village manor house, and many original features, such as the beamed ceilings, have been retained. The delicious, well-crafted cuisine draws on local produce and traditional recipes.

Day 1: you are transferred by taxi to Puilarens so that you can visit the village's striking château. After visiting the castle, you return to the village and from here follow an undulating route that affords views of other castles and the St Jaume Gorge as you walk. You pass through a beautiful small valley and later ascend to the Tulla Pass for the best views of the day: in clear weather you can see as far as the Mediterranean. From here, you descend gradually back to Gincla. (15km, 5hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel du Grand Duc, as above.

Day 2: after a short transfer, you walk through vineyards to a small chapel, then ascend steeply past the ruins of the Castel-Fizel which perches impossibly on a narrow rocky outcrop. At the top of the rise you should keep an eye out for golden eagles as you follow the ridge to a superb viewpoint (from which you can see the High Pyrenees on a good day) before descending along ancient trails through a deep ravine to your hotel. (15km, 6hrs)

Accommodation: Hotel le Châtelet (2*), near St Paul. A small village inn with an outdoor pool set in large gardens.

Day 3: this is a strenuous route with many ascents and descents, but the scenery – and the views of the Pyrenees – more than compensate. A taxi takes you to the start of the Galamus Gorge, where you can visit the extraordinary hermitage deep in the rock before following the lane through the bottom of the spectacular gorge. You then have the choice of a short, steep ascent or a longer, less demanding ascent out of the gorge, after which you walk through a very wild-feeling area, sometimes in trees, sometimes in expanses of aromatic plants as you walk along a the top of a cliff and descend to Soulatgé. (12km, 5.5hrs)

Accommodation: La Giraudasse (3* chambres d’hôtes), Soulatgé. This is an attractive guesthouse, its six bedrooms decorated simply yet stylishly. Along with his wife, Katia, Anibal Somoza is an effusive host and prepares tasty country cooking which you enjoy with other guests.

Day 4: you may want simply to relax in the garden, but if you prefer more walking we suggest two options. The first is a gentle 3-hour walk across farmland and through stream valleys. The second is a longer walk that ascends through woodland to a pass, then follows a panoramic ridge to the north of Soulatgé before descending into the next valley and rising to another pass for the descent back to your base. (15km, 5.5hrs)

Accommodation: Chambres d’Hôtes La Giraudasse, as above.

Day 5: this varied and enjoyable route starts across fields, then rises so as to lead high above an impressive valley to Peyrepertuse Château, the largest and best preserved of the three châteaux visited on the holiday. Your path then winds downhill and leads through vineyards to Cucugnan. (14km, 6hrs)

Accommodation: Auberge du Vigneron (2*), Cucugnan. Set in the shadow of the imposing Quéribus Château, this friendly auberge was formerly the house of a wine-maker. Bedrooms are attractively rustic, with exposed stonework and plenty of personal touches, while the vaulted restaurant is popular among locals.

Day 6: this circuit to the château of Quéribus again involves a steep ascent through box trees and expanses of rosemary, lavender, white tree heather, arbustus and junipers. However, your exertion is more than compensated by the sweeping views from the château of the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean in good weather. (10km, 3hrs)

Accommodation: Auberge du Vigneron, as above.

Walking chart: the chart gives the distance and an approximation of the ascents and descents involved each day. If comparing holidays, please note the scale of each chart as this can differ.

Recommendations for extra nights: the Auberge du Vigneron (Cucugnan) is well placed for a rest day at the end of your holiday. If you like good food, opt for the Hotel du Grand Duc (Gincla).

Extensions: If flying via Carcassonne stay 2 nights at the 3* Hotel du Donjon et des Remparts in Carcassonne. Surrounded by turreted ramparts and entered via a draw-bridge, Carcassonne is one of the world's best-preserved examples of a medieval town. Alternatively if you are flying via Tolouse extend your stay and relax on sandy beaches by adding 3 nights in Collioure at the 3* Princes de Catalogne. Collioure is the jewel of the rugged Vermeille Coast and boasts three sheltered beaches and a bustling fishing harbour.

Other information: if you would like to see the brochure page, you can download this (and the pages for any other holidays you are interested in) by using our brochure creation system. You can also read our website travel diary for a personal account of the holiday.

Similar holidays: Pyrenees to Atlantic (grade 2-3), The Grand Cerdagne (grade 2-3), The Catalan Pyrenees (grade 2-3), Beneath Mont Lozère (grade 2-3), Italy's Green Heart (grade 2-3), Villages of the Engadine (grades 2 & 3)

Prices & travel 2008:

Recommended destination airports: Carcassonne, Perpignan & Toulouse
Latest flight arrival time: Carcassonne & Perpignan flexible; Toulouse 1630
Earliest flight departure time: Carcassonne & Perpignan flexible; Toulouse 1530
*Connecting travel: return taxi from Perpignan (out 1h/home 0h40) £52pp;
return taxi from Carcassonne (out/home 1h30) £88pp;
return rail/taxi from Toulouse (out 2h05/home 3h10) £93pp
By rail includes: Eurostar/TGV via Lille (out dep St. Pancras 0853/home dep Perpignan 1258)
Self-drive includes: P&O Ferries Dover-Calais
Extra nights can be booked at any hotel
Start: Mon-Fri
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