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Home > Journeys > Spain > Delightful Inns of Northern Spain
Delightful Inns of North Spain
Exploring the Asturias and Rioja
Discover four delightfully varied areas on this journey. You'll enjoy the refreshing contrast between the verdant landscape and steep mountains of Asturias, the rugged coastline and sandy coves of the Costa Verde, and the gentle, wine-producing areas of la Rioja. You stay in atmospheric inns, where traditional buildings have been lovingly restored to create welcoming accommodation.
Route: Collia (3 nights), La Pereda (2 nights), Samaniego (3 nights), Bilbao (1 night)
Meals: Breakfast daily, dinner on 6 nights
Other details: our detailed documentation guides you from town to town, with suggested walking routes and indication of the most scenic drives.
Arrival: On arriving in Bilbao, after two nights on board the ferry from Portsmouth, head west to the green, rugged Sueve Sierra: the foothills to the west of the Picos de Europa.
Accommodation: La Posada del Valle (3*), Collia, is your first base, run by Nigel and Joann Burch who have extensive knowledge of this lovely area. The posada is peacefully situated on its own 18-acre organic farm, high on the south-facing slopes of a small valley. The converted farmhouse is a hundred-year-old stone building with superb views of the mountains, and the restaurant prides itself on the imaginative use of fresh local ingredients to produce excellent regional cuisine. Activities such as canoeing, rafting, fishing and horse riding are all available locally.
Day 1: Spend the day walking (see day 2 for suggestions) or explore the western end of the Picos de Europa by car, enjoying wonderful mountain views and the coastal towns and beaches. The fishing port of Llanes has a range of historical sites, and there is a fine cliff walk with views across the Cantabrian Sea. There are many beaches along the Llanes coastline, and further west on the Sella estuary lies Ribadesella, an interesting blend of modern resort town and ancient port. Nearer to hand are prehistoric cave paintings at the caves of Tito Bustillo.
Accommodation: La Posada del Valle
Day 2: There are many satisfying walks around Collia – your hosts will provide plenty of suggestions. One is the Collia circuit to Mirador del Fito (3hrs 30mins) – a splendid viewpoint and the start of a walk affording magnificent panoramas across the Cantabrian mountains, including the Picos de Europa and the coast. You can extend the walk with a climb up the Pico Pienzu. Look out for the semi-wild Asturcon ponies, which are native to these hills. An alternative is the Collia Circuit to La Vega Beach (5hrs) – a gentle descent through the Sierra del Fito, amongst pine and eucalyptus trees, with tempting glimpses of the coast until your eventual arrival on the beach – where there are three bars, so at least one should be open to offer refreshment!
Accommodation: La Posada del Valle
Day 3: Your journey continues heading east following along the coast to a tiny hamlet, La Pereda, near the attractive fishing port of Llanes.
Accommodation: La Posada de Babel (3*)
This highly-praised and quite grastanomic hotel is run by Lucas and Blanca who are your attentive hosts during your stay.
Day 4 & 5 : You’re well-placed here to explore the spectacular Cares and Hermida gorges in the Piccos mountains. Both are within easy reach by car and the glorious Asturian coast is only a 30-minute stroll away.
Accommodation: La Posada de Babel (3*)
Day 6 : Make the drive to La Rioja, and the Palacio de Samaniego in the wine-producing region of the same name. , and there are many vineyards and bodegas which offer tastings. The Rioja Wine Museum, at Bretón de los Herreros, explains all you could ever want to know about Rioja wines – which compete with the best in the world, improving as they age in oak casks.
Accommodation: The Palacio de Samaniego is a lovely 17th century house, attractively decorated. There’s a sitting room, garden and restaurant where the excellent cuisine of host Jon Ugalde can be savoured - his reputation as a superb chef is rapidly growing in the area. With three nights here we include dinner on two nights here, leaving you free to sample restaurants elsewhere on your last night.
Day 6: You’ll probably want to explore Laguardia, capital of Rioja Alavesa, This walled town of cobbled streets and historic buildings grew up around the castle built as a defence against the Moorish invasion. Look out for the church of Santa María de los Reyes with its ornately carved Gothic doorway and well-preserved 17th century paintings. The settlement of Hoya, with origins in 1500 BC, lies just outside Laguardia, and the caves of Faido and Laño sheltered even earlier prehistoric inhabitants of the area. Again, you may like to visit some of the local bodegas. Villa Lucia is an excellent wine museum with exhibitions explaining the process and history of wine-production, as well as tastings.
Accommodation: The Palacio de Samaniego
Day 7: There are various satisfying walks around Samaniego, wandering through vineyards and fields with far-reaching views, and opportunities to explore the local pretty villages and churches, and sample their restaurants. Full details of different options are provided with your holiday notes.
Accommodation: The Palacio de Samaniego
Day 8: Drive back to Bilbao. The centre is relatively compact, and it's easiest and most enjoyable to explore on foot. The metro is also an efficient and cheap way of travelling round the city. Don't miss the Guggenheim Museum, designed by Californian architect Frank Gehry on the banks of the Nervión in the heart of the city – the building, clad with shimmering titanium, resembles a huge metallic flower. There are 19 galleries, a permanent collection of works by international artists from 1960 onwards and a programme of temporary exhibitions. Bilbao’s other highlights lie in the old town, an attractive area lined with ancient mansions and interesting small shops and boutiques. Nearby is the arcaded Plaza Nueva, where an open-air market is held on Sunday mornings. Also worthy of interest is the Gothic Cathedral of Santiago, a stopping point for pilgrims in the Middle Ages on their journey to Santiago de Compostela. Art lovers may also want to visit the Museo de Bellas Artes – one of Spain’s more important galleries, with works by Goya, El Greco, Veláquez and modern Basque artists.
Accommodation: Iturrienea Ostatua (2*)
This attractive hotel offers an excellent location in the heart of the old quarter of Bilbao. The rooms are cheerfully furnished with an individual blend of colourful painted furniture and locally-made carpets and rugs. We normally use the quieter rooms, away from the street.
Prices 2008:
all prices £ per person based
on 2 in a double rm |
2 in car |
3 in car |
4 in car |
Single room |
| 1 April-1 November 2008: self drive* |
| 1-30 Apr |
806 |
772 |
726 |
178 |
| 1-23 May |
949 |
900 |
863 |
178 |
| 24 May-16 Jun |
962 |
914 |
876 |
178 |
| 17-30 Jun |
978 |
926 |
889 |
178 |
| 1 Jul-31 Aug |
1119 |
1038 |
1014 |
204 |
| 1-15 Sep |
949 |
918 |
893 |
193 |
| 16 Sep-1 Nov |
910 |
879 |
855 |
178 |
Start: any day, subject to ferries which depart every third day
*Included travel: P&O ferries Portsmouth-Bilbao. Out dep 2115/arr 0800 2 days later, home dep 1315/arr 1715 1 day later. Outside cabins included according to number of people travelling.
Drive to first hotel from port : 3h Drive to port from last hotel : 0h30
Please contact us if you require travel advice
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