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Timeless Southern Catalonia
Nights: 6 (or you can choose a 9-night version that follows the river to its end at the fascinating Ebro Delta)
Starting point: Parador de la Concordia (3*), Alcañiz. Dating from the 12th century, this old castle is steeped in history – it was once the seat of the Calatrava Knights, a powerful military-monastic order. Bedrooms are comfortable and evoke bygone times, but the parador's greatest features include a magnificent cloister, tranquil gardens and an atmospheric restaurant offering views over the River Guadalope. Day 1: your first, easy day follows the vía verde (disused railway line), which emerges from pine woods into a patchwork of olive groves, cereal fields and vineyards with the Ports Mountains rising up ahead. If you would like to extend the route, you can start by cycling westwards from Alcañiz, around the fertile shores of Lake Estanca and then to the salt lakes in the stark, desert-like scenery just to the south. (33km or 55km) Accommodation: Parada del Compte (4*), Torre del Compte. Probably the most original hotel that we work with, the Parada del Compte is converted from the village's old railway station. Owner José María Naranjo has cleverly continued the railway theme throughout the hotel: each bedroom has been given the name of a different station and decorated in a style that reflects the character of that city. One of the suites, for example, is called Seville, and is decorated in bright colours, with large lamps to symbolise the southern sun (please ask for upgrade prices). There is an outdoor pool in which to relax. Day 2: you have a choice of excursions for your day at the Parada del Compte. You could cycle alongside the languid River Matarraña to the village of Mazaleon, where you can admire the Renaissance architecture and visit the remains of an old Iberian (pre-Roman) settlement. For the return leg, take the direct route or meander through undulating woodland, passing the delightful village of Calaceite. Alternatively, we can arrange a unique - and unmissable - excursion to see dozens of wild griffon vultures feeding. Sitting in a hide, you can watch them gather overhead and then descend to feed, a truly remarkable sight. The excursion also includes a visit to historic Valderrobles, a handsome old town crowned by a castle. Available any date. From £27 per person in a party of four (maximum 4 people). (38km or 42km) Accommodation: Parada del Compte, as above. Day 3: for an easy day, cycle direct to Horta de Sant Joan along the vía verde, enjoying the glorious panorama of the ever-nearer mountains. The Mediterranean influence becomes more apparent as you cross from Aragón into Catalonia, and you cycle through vineyards and immaculate olive groves. For a longer day, you can make several detours from the vía verde to visit enchanting medieval villages such as Arnes, with its splendid Renaissance architecture, and Cretas. For the more adventurous, there is even a detour right into the foothills of the mountains via a dramatic gorge. (25km or 36km) Accommodation: Hotel Miralles (3* rural inn), Horta de Sant Joan. This is a real family affair, run by Salvador Miralles, his wife and two daughters. The focus is the attractive restaurant, with its stone arches and beamed ceiling, which has earned a loyal local following. Bedrooms are comfortable, with attractive pine furniture. Day 4: we recommend that you spend some time exploring Horta de Sant Joan. Nestling at the foot of the mountains, it was a favourite village of Picasso because of its extraordinary light and he once said that "Everything I know, I learnt in Horta." Visit the museum dedicated to him (pay locally; closed Mondays and some public holidays), then enjoy our circular route. This is your last day on this side of the Ports Mountains, and it leads you right into the dramatic foothills, again affording awe-inspiring views. (37km) Accommodation: Hotel Miralles, as above. Day 5: a truly spectacular section of vía verde takes you through craggy mountain scenery by means of tunnels and aqueducts to emerge on the eastern slopes of the Ports Mountains above the wide, fertile valley of the gently flowing River Ebro. You follow its banks through fragrant citrus groves to reach Tortosa. Take time on arrival to explore – the cathedral is well worth a visit and there is a wealth of Gothic, Renaissance and Art Nouveau buildings in the surrounding streets. (52km) Accommodation: Parador de Tortosa (4*), Tortosa. Situated in the ancient citadel high above the town with spectacular views of the cathedral, the River Ebro and the medieval town, the Parador has been converted from Tortosa's 10th-century castle. As you would expect, the building is full of character, with spacious bedrooms and plenty of space to relax, including an outdoor pool. The restaurant is the best in the town, serving excellent Catalan cuisine. Add three nights in the Ebro Delta
Day 6: today's route takes you right in the heart of the Ebro Delta. From Tortosa you cycle alongside a canal parallel to the Ebro, finally crossing the river to reach Sant Carles and your hotel. (35km) Accommodation: Hotel Miami Mar (4*), Sant Carles. This stylish beachfront hotel overlooks the Mediterranean and the southern portion of the Ebro Natural Park. The good restaurant - renowned for exquisite seafood dishes - is the icing on the cake. Day 7: spend the day exploring the delta's network of canals, lagoons and wetlands on a varied route that leads south to the distinctive finger-like peninsula of Punta de la Banya where large colonies of flamingos nest. You could visit the ornithological museum here (pay locally). (42km) Accommodation: Hotel Miami Mar, as above. Day 8: on your last day we suggest that you take the ferry (pay locally) across the river to Deltebre and then follow the Ebro to the sea so that you can see its journey's end. For a relaxing end to your holiday, why not take a boat trip from here (pay locally) along the coast? (up to 72km) Accommodation: Hotel Miami Mar, as above. Recommendations for extra nights: Parada del Compte (Torre del Compte) so that you can enjoy the cycling route and the griffon vulture excursion. Other information: if you would like to see the brochure page, you can download this (and the pages for any other holidays you are interested in) by using our brochure creation system. Similar holidays: Heart of Catalonia (grade 1-2), A Meander along the Ebro (grade 1-2), Catalan Coast & Villages (grade 1-2), Southern Beaches to Central Plain (grade 1-2)
Prices & travel 2008:
Recommended airports: arrival Zaragoza/departure Reus; Barcelona Extra night prices 2008:
> Notes on prices > Any queries? Let us call you back > Booking |
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This half-forgotten corner of Spain boasts a landscape of startling variety. Starting and finishing with stays at two glorious paradors (hotels converted from historic buildings), you cycle from the rugged steppe-like plateau of Lower Aragón on the edge of the Meseta, the vast plain of central Spain, to the Matarraña - the almond-clad, undulating foothills of the Ports Mountains - criss-crossed by rivers and dotted with honey-coloured stone villages. Your final day takes you through the mountains themselves, and you emerge from their dramatic rock formations via a series of tunnels and aqueducts onto the delta below, where the River Ebro waters a fertile valley planted with orange groves and cherry orchards on its way to the Mediterranean. The food is a journey in itself - Aragonese hams, almonds and olives give way to the Ebro Valley’s peaches and citrus fruits, with the promise of fabulous seafood towards the coast. 
Parador de la Concordia, Alcañiz 
