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Rolling Hills & Vineyards
This holiday crosses the heart of the region, passing medieval villages and grand churches, ending in style at the spa town of Ezcaray. In this most gastronomic of regions, food is an essential element, and you sample plenty of creative cuisine and noble wines along the way. Nights: 7
Starting point: Posada Mayor de Migueloa (2*), Laguardia. Run by the ebullient Meri Huergo, this is a characterful hotel-restaurant in the centre of this perfectly preserved medieval walled village. Bedrooms are delightful, and there is an intimate restaurant where you can enjoy renowned, high-quality cuisine accompanied by wine from the hotel's own estate. (The chef here trained under a top culinary master in the Basque Country.) Choose to dine here or at one of the other restaurants in the town (pay locally in both cases). Day 1: enjoy a relaxing circuit to the south of Laguardia that takes in the nearby salt lakes. You descend from the hills, returning to Laguardia via the sleepy villages of Elciego (home to the spectacular new creation from Frank Gehry - designer of Bilbao's Guggenheim Museum - the futuristic Marqués de Riscal hotel and wine museum) and Navaridas, which nestles amid the vineyards. (25km) Accommodation: Posada Mayor de Migueloa, as above. Day 2: heading west, today’s route explores the higher ground that lies below the pale escarpment to the north, overlooking the wine-growing plain to the south. Having been settled since pre-historic times, this area is historically important, and there are many dolmens dating from 4,000BC, as well as the remains of a significant Bronze Age settlement at La Hoya (pay locally; closed Mondays). Your target is the charming, honey-coloured village of Ábalos. Take time to explore – many of the houses date from the 17th century and include the Palace of the Marqueses de Legarda. The parish church of San Estebán is noted for its late Gothic steeple and a 16th-century altar-piece. (27km) Accommodation: Villa de Ábalos (3*), Ábalos. Situated on the village square, this much-praised hotel was formerly the village manor house. Rooms have been stylishly decorated and there is a comfortable lounge. José Luis and Merche are attentive hosts, going out of their way to ensure you get the most out of your stay. Day 3: our suggested circular route from Ábalos starts by leading to the castellated hill town of San Vincente with its famous Gothic church. You then continue your exploration of northern La Rioja by meandering along the banks of the River Ebro, as it flows through the surrounding vineyards. You can return to Ábalos on the direct route or via Villabuena, where you can sample the wines in some of the 33 bodegas! (15km or 22.5km) Accommodation: Villa de Ábalos, as above. Day 4: cross the Ebro to experience a dramatic change of landscapes and colours, now characterised by golden cereal fields, fewer vines and simpler, more rustic villages. Don't miss the Dinastía Vivanco wine museum in Briones (pay locally; closed Mondays), quite simply one of the best in the world, with a good restaurant attached. Accommodation: Monasterio de San Millán (4*), San Millán. This hotel is housed within the beautiful and historical 17th-century Benedictine monastery of Yuso. The rooms are all well-appointed, maintaining their sense of history, with beautiful views of the courtyard or surrounding hills. Day 5: you have a choice of two routes today, with our recommended option taking in two more of the great monasteries of the area as well as touching the pretty wooded hills and red sandstone cliffs that mark the southern edge of La Rioja. Near to San Millán is the much earlier monastery of Suso, while the Cistercian Abbey of Santa María del Salvador boasts its own collection of religious art. (15km or 22km) Accommodation: Monasterio de San Millán, as above. Day 6: the first half of this route continues west along the pilgrims’ way to the important historical resting site at Santo Domingo. Although now a busy market town, it has a fine cathedral and medieval quarter. You then head south along the vía verde – a disused railway track – to travel through a wooded valley, and gently rise to reach the spa town of Ezcaray, nestling in the foothills of the Demanda Sierra. (41km) Accommodation: Casa Masip (country inn), Ezcaray. This is a stylish place to end the week, recently converted from a nobleman's house and with a large comfortable lounge. For dinner, choose between the hotel’s own well-regarded food and the local Michelin-starred restaurant to finish your holiday in fittingly gastronomic fashion (pay locally in both cases). Recommendations for extra nights: Villa de Ábalos is one of the most highly praised hotels on the route. Alternatively, choose the Casa Masip (Ezcaray) for more time to explore this spa town. Other information: if you would like to see the brochure page, you can download this (and the pages for any other holidays you are interested in) by using our brochure creation system. Similar holidays: Lakes & Volcanoes of the Garrotxa (grade 2), Dordogne Valley (grade 2), Classic Provence (grade 2), Medieval Villages of the South-West (grade 2) Prices & travel 2008:
Recommended destination airports: Bilbao & Vitoria Extra night prices
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