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New England, a region worth discovering
By Helen Price
Its
not often that a virtual stranger offers you a lift in his six-seater
plane, or not where I come from, at any rate. I was attending a tourism
conference in Vermont on my first ever trip to New England and faced a
long and complicated journey via Boston to reach Down East Maine where
I was going to spend a few days visiting inns. What this chap was suggesting
would take hours off my journey, and I couldnt believe my luck.
Yet Ive since discovered that kindness like this is not uncommon
in New England, and for me the openness, genuine hospitality and trustfulness
(Vermonters, in particular, rarely lock their car or house doors) of the
people is part of the allure.
With its almost genteel air, New England is different to other parts
of the US. The pace of life is slower pleasantly so and
there is a great sense of tradition. (The British connection may not in
itself be a reason for visiting, but it is certainly part of the New England
experience.) Even the capital, Boston, is laid back, and people actually
get around on foot, something that is virtually unheard of in other US
cities. And although Americans from other states are far from being unfriendly,
New Englanders are even more personable Ive lost count of
the number of times that Ive pulled over to ask for directions and
been drawn into conversation.
It
was after much research and (luckily for me) numerous visits that we decided
on the areas that were to feature in the Inntravel programme. In Maine,
which is larger than the other five New England states combined, the coastal
region known as Down East Maine was the obvious choice. Just south of
the Canadian border, this is much further north than many Americans venture,
and I love it. It feels completely undiscovered and is not what youd
expect at all. In fact, I think the best way to describe it is as an old-fashioned
Cornwall, characterised by a rocky coastline, traditional fishing villages,
sturdy lighthouses, some 3,250 (mostly uninhabited) tiny islands and swathes
of pine forest criss-crossed with rushing rivers and dotted with literally
thousands of lakes and ponds. One of my two very favourite New England
inns is located here: the intimate Ullikana
Bed & Breakfast. Tucked away on the edge of the bustling port
of Bar Harbor, it has charmed not just me but all our customers too. The
rooms are beautiful, and the breakfasts fabulous (and very filling), but
it is innkeepers Hélène (a French Canadian) and Roy that
really make the place. Just like the other innkeepers we work with, they
are a mine of information about the local area, and nothing is too much
trouble for them, whether its helping you join a whale-watching
trip, planning an excursion in the marvellous Acadia National Park, or
picking a seafood restaurant where you can sample the delicious clams
(great steamed or in a chowder) and lobster, with perhaps a slice of local
blueberry pie to finish off.
The
other coastal region that we feature is Cape Cod in Massachusetts. Chatham,
our chosen base on the Cape, is full of character, and just how youd
expect Cape Cod to be like, with lots of tempting small shops. The colourful
resort of Provincetown, the departure point for more whale-watching trips,
is close by, and from Chatham it is also possible to take a day trip to
the wonderfully unspoiled island of Nantucket, thirty miles off the coast,
where you can hire bikes and spend the day pottering about on two wheels
past the numerous lighthouses and lovely beaches. (To preserve the islands
charm, neon signs and fast food joints are banned, which is just fantastic.)
But there is much, much more to New England than its coastline, and the
great variety of the landscapes is yet another reason why I love it. In
New Hampshire, we decided to focus on the majestic White Mountains (so
named because they are often capped with snow). There are 48 peaks over
4,000ft (the highest is Mount Washington at 6,288ft), and some 1,200 miles
of paths for all levels, as well as many really scenic drives. In neighbouring
Vermont, we again feature the mountains, though these arent white
but green. In fact, its the Green Mountains that give the state
its name French explorer Samuel de Champlain called them the Monts
Verts, hence Vermont. Theyre not as high as the White Mountains,
and in fact Vermont, famous for its covered bridges, steepled white churches
and forests of maple trees (which provide not only maple syrup but also
the superb fall colours in late September and early October), feels much
more open. My other favourite inn, the Blueberry
Hill Inn, is here, right in the heart of the Green Mountain National
Forest. Set at the end of a dirt road, its not the easiest place
to find, not least because very few signposts are allowed in the forest,
but its certainly worth it. The innkeeper, Tony Clark, grew up in
Britain but settled in Vermont after falling in love with the place on
a trip as a student. I must admit that my typical British reserve meant
that initially I wasnt particularly keen on the idea of communal
dining, but the atmosphere is so relaxed at the inn that everyone immediately
feels at ease, and I actually really appreciated the opportunity to chat
with fellow guests over the superb cuisine. (On the subject of food, I
should also mention here that the Blueberry Hills cookies are the
best Ive ever tasted.) If fishing is your thing, you can have a
go at fly fishing on the inns pond, or you may prefer to explore
the 60 miles of trails that lead from the door.
In
fact, Blueberry Hill Inn features on our walking and touring holiday, the Green
& White Mountains. Putting together a walking holiday proved a far bigger
challenge than finding inns of real character, partly because Americans
are not that into walking, and find it hard to comprehend that there are
people out there who like to walk all day. Nevertheless, the Green Mountain
Trail, which follows part of the 225-mile-long Long Trail which dissects
the state from north to south, has been very successful, with customers
loving the excellent walking and the richness in wildlife a wide
variety of birds, and even the occasional close encounter with a docile
moose, something theyre not likely to forget in a hurry.
Its experiences like these, and leisurely days exploring the wonderfully
varied landscapes and timeless towns that make a holiday to New England
so rewarding, but the icing on the cake is being able, at the end of the
day, to head to a charming, characterful and beautifully-located inn where
you know youll find the warmest hospitality in the US. Thats
why I love New England.
If you are interested in a holiday to New England, please email us with your queries. We will be happy to tailor-make an itinerary
to suit your exact requirements. You can find practical information about
New England in our planning your trip
guide.
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