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The Joys of Rail Travel

A Paris diary by Sonia Curry, November 2007

Exterior, Hotel St Paul, ParisWe have made numerous journeys to France and Paris itself over the years, but not once have we been on Eurostar - until now. The service’s recent move to St Pancras (conveniently close to King’s Cross station after our journey from the north) piqued my interest and we decided that the time was right to go in style. It was, therefore, with great anticipation that we booked a long weekend to what is probably Inntravel’s favourite hotel in the French capital, the intimate Hotel St Paul, leaving London a little over a week after the newly-renovated St Pancras International station was opened.

There has been a lot of hype surrounding the opening of the new Eurostar terminal at St Pancras - most of it positive - and it is certainly an admirable renovation project. The undercroft is a remarkable use of space, managing to feel light and airy despite being underneath the main platforms, and there is a marked difference in ambience when you enter after crossing the road from King’s Cross. Check-in and security clearance (for access to the platform and to board the train) was a refreshing change to that found in most airports: your bags, person and travel documentation is still rigorously checked before you are allowed to pass through, but there is a marked difference between the eternal queues of the airport and the smooth transition you experience here.

Salon, Hotel St Paul, ParisOnce on the platform in the cathedral-like chamber that hosts the international platforms, there is plenty of time to find your carriage and your seat, to stow away your luggage and to settle yourself comfortably before departure. We even found time to admire the restored train shed roof and Victorian tiles while watching our fellow passengers arrive and board. The journey itself was smooth and uneventful: we passed out of London through various tunnels and down through the Kent countryside before entering the Channel Tunnel itself. Once out on the other side, a short 30 minutes later, we seemed to fly down through northern France, stepping off the train into central Paris just 2 hours and 20 minutes after we left London.

Bedroom, Hotel St Paul, ParisParis itself needs no introduction, and the Hotel St Paul is the perfect base to explore this city of culture. Based on the left bank of the Seine close to the Sorbonne and Luxembourg Gardens, the hotel is easily accessible from Gard du Nord (just 10 stops on the Metro) and easy to locate once you leave the metro station. The hotel itself is charming: small enough to feel personal, a comfortable lounge area on the ground floor and individually decorated rooms. Non-animal lovers should beware as entry to the hotel is controlled by a cat named Sputnik (who will wrap himself round your legs to greet you as you check in), but he does know better than to try to beg for a morsel of one of the delicious breakfast pastries!

The Patio, Hotel St Paul, ParisWe barely used the metro during our stay as the hotel is within easy walking distance of most of the main attractions and some good shops (although Galeries Lafayette did necessitate use of the metro to save our legs for the shopping!). In the evenings, the hotel is also well-placed to allow you take your pick of the restaurants and bars without having to go too far: on the same street as the hotel, you can find Indian, Japanese and Moroccan restaurants, while a short walk will take you to the Latin Quarter with its wide range of restaurants to suit all tastes.

The journey back was as enjoyable an experience as our outward: the return train was punctual and left us plenty of time to meet our connection from King’s Cross, which meant that we arrived back in York truly refreshed after our break and converted to the joys of rail travel - being able to go by train is likely to factor highly in planning next year’s holiday!

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