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Italy's Lakes & MountainsExplore Lake Iseo & the Südtirol
Lakes and mountains are two common themes in northern Italy, and our holiday combines both to dramatic effect, featuring rewarding walking routes that reveal the very best of these magnificent landscapes. Lake IseoLake Iseo, set between the better-known lakes of Como and Garda, is a secret jewel. To the north, the scenery is rugged and wild, while its southern shores yield to the gentle, vine-covered slopes of Franciacorta that produce some of the country’s most delicious and interesting wines. Perhaps the lake’s most intriguing feature is the charming island of Monte Isola, where pretty fishing villages are scattered along the shore. Beautifully converted from a villa and its outbuildings, the 4-star I Due Roccoli, where you spend your first three nights, affords memorable views of the south-east corner of the lake from its location in the hills above, just ten minutes from the lakeside town of Iseo. A Relais du Silence, this is a real oasis of tranquillity immersed in its own parkland, with pretty bedrooms and relaxed, friendly service from Oriana Salemi and her team. The facilities include an outdoor pool, tennis court and panoramic terrace, but the real focal point is the elegant, locally renowned restaurant, where we include dinner on your first night. So good are the lake fish and the refined interpretations of traditional Lombard cuisine that you may well wish to dine here on subsequent nights (pay locally), though we provide recommendations for other restaurants nearby that we know and love. To show you the hills above the lake as well as the Mediterranean-like landscapes lower down, we provide walking notes for a route direct from the hotel and two options on Monte Isola, accessed by car and ferry. When you’re not walking, you can simply relax at the hotel or use your hire car to explore the vineyards, perhaps calling in at one or two wine producers for tastings. Woods & Vineyards: this route follows pleasant woodland trails to reach the edge of the Franciacorta vineyards. The return leg takes you through yet more attractive woodland along a path that follows a torrent upstream past several small waterfalls. (11.5km, 4hrs) Monte Isola: drive to Sale Marasino and take the ferry (pay locally) across Lake Iseo to Monte Isola, the largest lake island in Europe. Here, a path leads through pretty fishing villages before ascending to the sanctuary on the summit of the island (600 metres above sea level), from where you return to the harbour along a beautiful ancient path. In clear weather, the views are excellent – you can see some of the northerly Alpine ranges – and there is a 360-degree panorama from the sanctuary. For a longer walk, choose our second route, which, unlike the first, heads in a clockwise direction round the island and ascends via a Renaissance castle to the summit. (10km, 3.5hrs or 15km, 5hrs) The SüdtirolTwo hours' drive from Lake Iseo, the mountainous Südtirol has a distinct identity blending Italian and Germanic influences. German is widely spoken, and the regional cuisine features dumplings and speck (smoked ham) alongside dishes such as polenta. At this high altitude, ample sunshine ensures that apple, pear and plum trees thrive, as do vines, combining with the vivid green meadows and forests to create a verdant patchwork. The wonderful paths reward walkers with views in clear weather to the famous jagged Dolomite peaks. Run by Sepp Perwanger’s family for over a century, the delightful Berghotel Zirmerhof receives consistently high praise, not least because it is the perfect place to unwind, with breathtaking scenery all around. The cuisine, which you sample on all four nights, is outstanding – many dishes are inspired by the studies of Sepp’s grandmother, an author of local culinary traditions. The frescoed restaurant affords impressive views to the western Dolomites, a panorama also enjoyed from the terrace and bar. The comfortable bedrooms are divided between the main house, which dates from the early 17th century, and the adjoining building, and there is a sauna and steam bath, panoramic all-seasons pool, cosy library, sitting room and stube (wood-panelled parlour). Our documentation includes notes for three walks, though you can use the walking maps provided to enjoy other routes, perhaps exploring the slopes of the Schwarzhorn, for example. For something different, visit the earth pyramids, an extraordinary natural phenomenon, or spend the day in Bolzano, visiting the cathedral, frescoed monastery and excellent archaeological museum (closed Mondays), which houses the 'Ice Man', a Copper Age man discovered in a glacier in 1991. So well preserved were his body, clothing and tools that he has provided archaeologists with a unique insight into life some 5,000 years ago – you can find out about his background and customs in a fascinating exhibition. The Weisshorn: from the Zirmerhof, paths lead up the slopes of the Weisshorn ('White Horn') through larch and pine woods to a splendid viewpoint affording breathtaking views into the Bletterbach Canyon and to the surrounding peaks. Keen walkers can reach the summit itself (2,313 metres) for even more inspirational views. (11km, 4hrs) Lake Gollersee: heading north of Aldein, a short drive from the Zirmerhof, our route leads you to three small renovated mills, from where you follow meandering, peaceful trails to Gollersee, a secluded lake that makes a pleasant spot for a picnic. Woodland trails return to Aldein along the western part of the plateau, affording a wide panorama of the Adige Valley. (10km, 3hrs) Above Bolzano: you start by driving to Bolzano and taking a cable car to Jenesien, a hill-top village perched high above Bolzano amid meadows and forests. From the upper cable-car station you wander past typical old farmsteads and across a wide, high plateau, enjoying a grand panorama of the Südtirol Mountains before crossing rolling valleys. From Molten you can return to Bolzano by bus to collect your car. (11.5km, 4hrs; pay locally for cable car and bus) Prices & travel 2008:
Recommended destination airports: Bergamo, Brescia & Verona Extra night prices:
> Notes on prices > Any queries? Let us call you back  |
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Lake Iseo 
