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Lake Oeschinensee & Beyond

Above Lake Oeschinensee
Kandersteg's church
Typical farmhouse
Lake Oeschinensee from the east
Flowers line the paths
Hotel Victoria
Hotel Victoria's dining room
One of the Ritter rooms
Hotel Victoria's swimming pool

Light-green meadows, bottle-green forests, purple and yellow flowers, blue lakes, white snow-capped peaks, houses of dark-brown wood, red geraniums in window-boxes – Switzerland delights with its colours. In the south-west, the Bernese Oberland is no exception, and the majesty of its scenery has been recognised by Unesco, which has declared the mountains and valleys surrounding the mighty Aletsch Glacier a World Heritage Site.

Arguably one of Switzerland’s most exquisite lakes, emerald Oeschinensee is one of the jewels of the Bernese Oberland, set in an amphitheatre of mountains which at points rise sheer from the water. In the valley below nestles the picture-book village of Kandersteg whose inspirational mountain views are more than enough to tempt you onto the many well-waymarked paths which explore the broad Kander Valley, its various spurs, and the mountains above.

Hotel Victoria, Kandersteg

When it comes to hospitality, there can be no better place to spend your week in the Bernese Oberland than the 3-star Hotel Victoria, right in the centre of Kandersteg. That we have worked with the hotel for eighteen years is testimony to the fact that Casi and Mimi Platzer and their team offer an outstanding level of personal attention, giving you the feeling of being a welcome house guest. We reserve either a ‘Comfort’ room in the Victorian part of the hotel or one of the slightly smaller ‘Ritter’ rooms in the oldest part of the hotel for you. Fittingly, these latter rooms are cosy and rustic, often with panelled walls, beamed ceilings and carved or hand-painted wooden furniture. The elegant chandeliered restaurant is the setting for delicious dinners, but the hotel’s great feature is the indoor pool measuring 6 by 12 metres. Its large windows afford views to the mountains beyond. In addition to the pool there is plenty more space to relax, including a sauna, a reading room, a large lounge with a bar, and a second lively yet cosy bar frequented by locals. Outside, a pleasant garden set with sun loungers completes the picture.

Walking & sightseeing

The six grade 2-3 walks for which we provide route notes reveal different aspects of the Kander Valley, and Casi will be happy to provide more suggestions if you need them. In July and August, you can even join him for a guided walk, a chance to learn more about your beautiful surroundings. As some of our walks are accessed by bus, train or cable car, we include a travel pass giving three days’ unlimited travel and special reductions for the remainder of your holiday.

Lake Oeschinensee: this is a walk not to be missed. Take the chairlift from Kandersteg into the mountains above the village, where a path leads high above the north shore of the lake, giving you an unrivalled panorama of Oeschinensee. From this angle, you can appreciate how the lake is set like a jewel in an amphitheatre of glistening rock which at points rises sheer from the water. The tops of the surrounding mountains are usually cloaked in snow all year round, and are reflected in the water on still days. You descend through green pastures, and return to the chairlift via a path nearer to the water.

Blausee: though much smaller than Oeschinensee, Blausee is nevertheless very enchanting – it is coloured deep blue due to its crystal-clear waters (Blausee translates as 'Blue Lake'). From Kandersteg, a path leads northwards alongside the rushing River Kander through open meadows and woods. Take time to relax by the shore (entrance fee payable) before continuing through the Kander Valley to Frutigen, from where you can return to Kandersteg by bus or train.

Gasterntal Nature Reserve: renowned as the classic glacial valley in the Bernese Oberland, Gasterntal is a beautiful, secluded valley – now a nature reserve. There are two ways to enjoy the valley. The first option is to take a bus (or walk the 2 kilometres) to the entrance of the spectacular Kander Gorge. After the gorge, the valley opens up slightly, but this is a narrow valley with barren slopes on either side, and the silence is astonishing. You can return by bus from Selden, at the far reaches of the valley. Alternatively, from Kandersteg, take a bus all the way to Selden and follow the path that winds steeply uphill more or less parallel to the River Kander to the blue ice of the Kanderfirn Glacier, the source of the river. This is a strenuous but very rewarding option with an ascent (and subsequent descent!) of almost 900 metres.

The Gemmi Pass: take the bus and then the cable car to Sunnbüel for a fantastic walk to the Gemmi Pass, past the Schwarenbach Hotel (2,060 metres) where Sherlock Holmes stayed in one of Conan Doyle’s tales!

The Cheese Route: for a fascinating insight into how local cheeses are made, take the cable car into the imposing mountains that rise on Kandersteg's west side, where there is an artisan's factory (usually open mid-June to mid-September) that allows you to watch the cheeses being made and sample them too. From here, you can return to Kandersteg on foot, either on the direct route or on a longer route through the pretty Uschene Valley.

Lötschental: to discover the scenery on the other side of the mountains surrounding Kandersteg, take the train through the Lötschberg Tunnel, then a bus to Fafleralp for a walk into the idyllic Lötschental Valley.

For a change from walking, you could make use of your travel pass to enjoy some sightseeing. It is well worth spending a day in Bern. It may be the Swiss capital, but this medieval city has a distinctly small town feel and is compact and easy to see on foot. Its centre lies on a broad ridge, with grand squares and the wonderful, arcaded streets which are the city's great feature. The Zytgloggeturm clock tower, with its painted figures and famous chimes which start pealing at four minutes to the hour, is another unmissable sight. Art lovers will appreciate the Fine Arts Museum with several pieces by the major Impressionists, and works by Paul Klee, who lived in Bern for many years. Another option is to visit Interlaken, an attractive town which owes its name to the fact that it lies between the sparkling lakes of Thun and Spiez. The snow-capped peaks of the Jungfrau, Mönch and Eiger form the perfect backdrop, best admired from Höheweg, the town's flower-bedecked main promenade.

For a personal view of walking from Kandersteg, read our staff travel diary.

Prices & travel 2008

£ per person based
on 2 in a double rm
Walk
price*
By
rail
Self-
drive
Single
room
7 nights' dinner & breakfast: 7 June-5 October 2008
7-20 Jun 633 875 679 30
21 Jun-4 Jul 653 897 700 30
5-11 Jul 689 931 737 30
12 Jul-17 Aug 720 972 768 30
18-24 Aug 689 931 737 30
25-29 Aug 653 897 700 30
30 Aug-12 Sep 633 875 679 30
13 Sep-5 Oct 609 855 653 30
3rd+ person saving 0 0 40  

Recommended destination airports: Zurich & Geneva
Latest flight arrival time:
1730 (both airports)
Earliest flight departure time:
1300 (both airports)
*Connecting travel:
return rail from Zurich airport (out/home 2h25) £51pp;
return rail from Geneva airport (out/home 3h25) £51pp
By rail includes:
Eurostar/TGV/regional rail via Paris & Lausanne: upgrade to 1st class rail £180pp
Self-drive includes:
P&O Ferries Dover-Calais
Start: any day
Book your flights through us and we'll find the best route, times and price to suit you

2008 extra night prices

Extra nights (£ per person per night) Double
room

Single
room
Kandersteg 7 Jun-11 Jul 55 59
  12 Jul-23 Aug 63 67
  24 Aug-13 Sep 55 59
  14 Sep-9 Oct 52 56

> Notes on prices

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